Huztl MS660

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I just got some engines in and I'm more convinced than ever that it's a china man perched atop a wooden block. QA department never came back from that holiday break or they're bagging up whatever crap they have sitting around.
 
2017-02-22 Wednesday
19:36:04 Shipment loaded at 【Shanghai Pudong Distribution Center】, send to 【America New York Gateway】

Finally got tracking info. Took 9 days from order to load out in China. So it's no longer just a dream fantasy of some poor crumpled HuFlungDung Chinese beer can's dream reincarnation into something with incredible KungFu power to topple trees. That poor beer can and a bunch of his ChopSuey tin buddies will become gods in the fields and fence rows of Oklahoma! God Bless America-Chinese trade! :laugh: Couldn't resist a little good hearted humor.

So does that SF shipping update mean that it's on a slow boat from China or a fast plane?
 
Hey guys, if anyone wants a cheap backup cylinder, HL Supply has MS660 cylinder kits (54mm) as their "deal of the day" today (2/24/17).

Not affiliated or endorsing them, just making a note for those interested.
 
Thinking about building one of these for the big oaks I get into sometimes. The 310 just doesn't cut it..

Have you guys seen this listing? A little misleading with that MS660 sticker on top... Till you read the description. Country of manufacture China and recommended 25:1 fuel to oil.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/192105467710?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
 
Thinking about building one of these for the big oaks I get into sometimes. The 310 just doesn't cut it..

Have you guys seen this listing? A little misleading with that MS660 sticker on top... Till you read the description. Country of manufacture China and recommended 25:1 fuel to oil.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/192105467710?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
A lot cheaper through Alibaba but a little more fuss to get the deal finalized . I can get a turnkey 372 for $260 delivered and 660's aren't a lot different iirc.
 
I've seen enough of em to not recommend a pre-assembled saw. OEM's build quality into the production process. Farmertec QA process starts with the buyer. "Will it run?", seems to be the standard and that's why we get them so cheaply. But to buy one pre-assembled and not go over it is an absolute crap shoot.
 
I've seen enough of em to not recommend a pre-assembled saw. OEM's build quality into the production process. Farmertec QA process starts with the buyer. "Will it run?", seems to be the standard and that's why we get them so cheaply. But to buy one pre-assembled and not go over it is an absolute crap shoot.
What would you check other than pressure/vacume and squish then pull jug and check for free crank bearings, port's condition and toss compression release?
 
Edited to make it a little more readable

- Pressure and Vacuum test are the big ones and pulling the jug before fueling
- Prior to tear down, rotate the engine by hand to insure that the piston skirts clear the crank
- You wanna get in there and make sure that nothing is gonna wreck the cylinder on startup
- Clean/Rinse the cylinder
- Rinse the crankcase, then rinse it again
- Check for a little burr that like to form inside the crankcase around the impulse nipple
- Check that the crankshaft is centered
- Oil all the bearings.
- Make sure that the base gasket is installed correctly
- clip the ears from the piston circlips or replace with oem
- Loctite & torque everything (keep an eye out for stripped bolts)
- Pressure test the tank and carburetor
- Install heat reflective tape under & over the muffler
- If you're gonna run the decomp valve coat the thread with a thread sealer
- Check run out on clutch drum and grease bearing
- Grease the chain adjuster and test for function
- Check bar studs. If if only have 20mm sticking out, they're installed backwards

Further edited to add to my rambling,
You wanna give everything a look over. Obvious defects that I've seen are bearings under-pressed, seals over-pressed. Seals rolled, cylinders trashed in every way imaginable, stripped screws or loose screws, plenty of leaky carbs, leaky base gaskets, no oil ever on any bearing (cylinders have been oiled though), leaky decomps, buggered clutch drums, missing seals under the oil pump, and loads of backwards bar studs.
 
Edited to make it a little more readable

- Pressure and Vacuum test are the big ones and pulling the jug before fueling
- Prior to tear down, rotate the engine by hand to insure that the piston skirts clear the crank
- You wanna get in there and make sure that nothing is gonna wreck the cylinder on startup
- Clean/Rinse the cylinder
- Rinse the crankcase, then rinse it again
- Check for a little burr that like to form inside the crankcase around the impulse nipple
- Check that the crankshaft is centered
- Oil all the bearings.
- Make sure that the base gasket is installed correctly
- clip the ears from the piston circlips or replace with oem
- Loctite & torque everything (keep an eye out for stripped bolts)
- Pressure test the tank and carburetor
- Install heat reflective tape under & over the muffler
- If you're gonna run the decomp valve coat the thread with a thread sealer
- Check run out on clutch drum and grease bearing
- Grease the chain adjuster and test for function
- Check bar studs. If if only have 20mm sticking out, they're installed backwards

Further edited to add to my rambling,
You wanna give everything a look over. Obvious defects that I've seen are bearings under-pressed, seals over-pressed. Seals rolled, cylinders trashed in every way imaginable, stripped screws or loose screws, plenty of leaky carbs, leaky base gaskets, no oil ever on any bearing (cylinders have been oiled though), leaky decomps, buggered clutch drums, missing seals under the oil pump, and loads of backwards bar studs.
Other than that they're great!:cool:
 
CORRECTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was under the impression that the 660 crank PTO threads were m12x1.25 LH... THEY ARE NOT. multiple sources told me they were... this is INCORRECT.

THEY ARE M12x1.0 LH .... which means I need to order another tap. :(

they are not the same as the husky threads.
 
Plus side is most of the parts should be there and in semi usable condition if they were able to get it together.

Negatives are it might be trashed from a crappy cylinder and them spinning it over scraping the wall. It's harder to inspect everything piece by piece before you run it and figure it out the hard way.

OZHOO said it better

Wonder what the warranty is on the pre assembled. I don't have any experience building a saw from the ground up like that.

Even if it was the same price I would trust myself and learn a lot more building it.
 
CORRECTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was under the impression that the 660 crank PTO threads were m12x1.25 LH... THEY ARE NOT. multiple sources told me they were... this is INCORRECT.

THEY ARE M12x1.0 LH .... which means I need to order another tap. :(

they are not the same as the husky threads.
NOw you're ready for the Husky though!
 
ya!

I got the PTO side together by baking the case half ... then putting the crank in... WHOOPSIES ... the big end bearing fell right out when I did that. ...so I needed to install the oiler, bake at 300f again, then install the crank. ... then I used my new tool on the flywheel side...and it worked! very nice!
 
ya!

I got the PTO side together by baking the case half ... then putting the crank in... WHOOPSIES ... the big end bearing fell right out when I did that. ...so I needed to install the oiler, bake at 300f again, then install the crank. ... then I used my new tool on the flywheel side...and it worked! very nice!
300 preheat...oven off...insert case to warm? 300 is getting pretty toasty.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top