Just Got Homelite XL

[Aprules2]

Ok I just ordered the 16 inch bar...

Someone said that the stihl chain is the best one... I've never had to buy one before, but I'd like the highest quality, best cutting, anti kickback, low profile, 3/8, 0.050 chain I can buy... Can someone put up a link to buy one?

 

[redunshee]

Automatic just means automatic oiling on most saws. Mine has an 8" bar on it and gets plenty of oil..You can adjust the oiling on these but not with a knob.. I run a 3/8 LP on smaller saws like this..

Have one also but it refuses to oil. If I recall the oiler works off impulse pressure but not sure.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Have one also but it refuses to oil. If I recall the oiler works off impulse pressure but not sure.

Yep, an impulse line goes into the top of the oil tank near the cap with duck bill valve on the end of it. Another line goes out of the tank and to the bar mount nipple. You have to have a gasket on your oil cap so the tank will pressurize.

 

[redunshee]

Maybe I have a leaking oil cap. Guess I can pressure test the oil tank to find out. Oops. How am I gonna doe that?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Sometimes I use an O ring in the cap if I find one that size. I've actually had them over-oil before and drilled a very small hole in top of the cap to cut down the pressure. I know the little bronze sleeve is supposed to do that but I don't always have one of those handy..

 

[redunshee]

Sometimes I use an O ring in the cap if I find one that size. I've actually had them over-oil before and drilled a very small hole in top of the cap to cut down the pressure. I know the little bronze sleeve is supposed to do that but I don't always have one of those handy..

Well, after some deep thought I switched the oil and fuel caps. The saw now oils. As a second test I put the oil cap on the fuel tank and couldn't get it to hold pressure. Refitting the fuel cap on the fuel tank it held pressure fine. Only other issue is the saw runs very rich. Guess I'll have to pull carb and check metering needle. Don't really like the one low needle setup but guess that's the way it is set up.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Well, after some deep thought I switched the oil and fuel caps. The saw now oils. As a second test I put the oil cap on the fuel tank and couldn't get it to hold pressure. Refitting the fuel cap on the fuel tank it held pressure fine. Only other issue is the saw runs very rich. Guess I'll have to pull carb and check metering needle. Don't really like the one low needle setup but guess that's the way it is set up.

Yep, I think there are a few of the 2 screw carburetors still around. I think both of my saws have been changed to the H L setup, they seem to run a bit better.

 

[Aprules2]

Does anyone have experience with either of these chains? STIHL PICCO™ Micro™ 3 (PM3) or STIHL PICCO™ Super 3 (PS3) I read the description and both sound good, and both had reviews from poeple running saws of simmilar CC's and Horsepower. They both say they're low kick back and low profile chains. So I am wondering which one will be a better cutting chain? Or am I just looking at the wrong type all together?

 

[svk]

PS3 has been proven to be the or one of the fastest cutting low profile chains out there. It is full chisel versus the RM being semi chisel. There are tons of threads on here discussing full chisel versus semi chisel if you want to learn more, as a rule chisel cuts faster but semi will hold an edge longer when cutting dirty wood.

Stihl chain is more expensive that Oregon or off brands but especially if you are cutting clean wood the Stihl chain is the best value IMO as it stays sharp so much longer.

I run a mixture of Stihl PS3 and PS (very similar to PS3 but not low kickback) and Oregon VX and VXL on my saws that require low profile chains. Sometimes you can score the Oregon chains on super clearance so it makes them worth buying even though they arent quite as good as Stihl.

 

[Aprules2]

I plan to use this saw to cut up a bunch of old wood laying in my yard. We had an oak tree and a maple tree chopped down about 15 years ago and they gave us the more narrow parts of the trunk cut it up into round 1 foot tall pieces... My dad was supposed to cut it up but never did and now I am trying to clean up the yard. Also I have a bunch of arborvities that the neighbors vine choked out so I want to take them down too, plus a few oak and white ash branches that have to come down. I'm guessing that means the wood would be considered all dirty wood right?


Maybe I should just buy both and see how It goes? The sales pitch on the Pico Duro 3 (PD3) chain sounds great. But it's also $55 but is it a better choice than the other 2?

 

[svk]

Never heard of PD? Is that carbide tipped?

 

[Aprules2]

Yes

 

[svk]

I believe the general consensus on those is they aren't worth it for firewood cutting.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I wouldn't buy a chain that's worth as much or more than the saw is. Many of the Homelite XL saws can be had for way less than $50.

 

[Aprules2]

Ok the I think I'm going to just go with the Semi Chisel, it seems like it will hold up the best on the type of work I'm going to do. One person I read about was saying he needs to re-sharpen the chain every tank full when using chisel chain.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I just sharpen mine when it appears to be getting dull. You should be able to tell when it's putting out dust instead of chips..

 

[Aprules2]

I feel like the price of the saw has nothing to do with what you put on it. That's like busing cheap tires and brakes because your car is old... Now it just drives like crap... I'm not saying money is no object but I'd rather buy a good chain and have it work it's best then buy cheap crap and just be annoyed every time I use it, not to mention buying 6 cheap chains I could buy one good one and be done.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I just figured that anyone who uses a Homelite XL probably isn't blessed with a bunch of money or they'd go out and buy a new Stihl MS200T. Sometimes I'm wrong and if I am I apologize..I've owned these type of saws ever since I bought my first new one in the 1970s and have never had to put a $50 chain on any of them, the Oregon chains work just fine but I try to stay away from the anti-kickback versions.

 

[Aprules2]

No need to apologize, I'm not rich. But I don't want to count out quality parts just based on budget. It seems like a stout little saw and it's light weight, plus I got it cheap so I think it will work for what I'm doing. But right now it needs a chain so I figure it's time to put a nice sized bar on it and a quality chain. But I'd like to make one good investment on it instead of a bunch of cheap ones that's all...

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Honestly, you won't notice much difference if you keep the bar oiler working properly and keep the chain sharp but don't overdo it. I've had Stihl chains also on other saws, they are somewhat harder than the Oregons but that has a downside also, they are harder to file when they do get dull. I have a chain grinder so it makes no difference to me but I still go with the Oregon chain on these saws.