Makita / Dolmar 7900 Piston and Cylinder Install w/ PICS!!

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stock50s

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I installed the 7900 p/c today on my Home Depot Makita! I thought it would be worthwhile to post up some pics and give a few tips that my help a first timer. First off I want to start by saying that I am NOT a chainsaw mechanic nor do I claim to be one. If anyone has anything to add or feels I did something incorrectly, please post up the correct way or any tips that would make it easier on the next guy. Thank you.

To start off, remove both top covers and the handle as it will just get in the way. Before going any farther, blow off any dirt and grime around the carburetor, cylinder and exhaust.

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The next step is to detach the exhaust and carb. The exhaust is self explanatory but the carb can be a little tricky. To remove the carb, this rubber plate has to be removed to gain access to the screws.

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Once the carb is unscrewed and the impulse line is disconnected the cylinder can come off. This next step is not 100% necessary unless you need to reposition or trim the limiting cap but it will make reassembly easier. The intake manifold is mounted to the saw with a plastic ball and rubber socket. Simply pull up on the intake manifold and the ball will pop out of the socket. Now the carb is free... well sort of, disconnect the throttle cable and choke linkage.

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Now on to the cylinder, break all 4 screws loose (I like to use an “X” pattern) then remove them. Now the cylinder can be carefully removed. If the cylinder does not move, GENTLY tap it a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet.

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Before even breathing again, stuff a clean rag in the black hole you just created. The case just loves to suck down any kind of bolts, clips, or dirt. Now the fun part, remove the wrist pin clip from one side of the piston and push out the wrist pin. I like to use a small pick and get behind the clip to pop it out. Be sure to wear safety glasses and cover the side of the piston with your hand or a rag before you pop it out.

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If the wrist pin doesn't slide right out, use the back side of a pen to push it out. Remove the old cylinder gasket and clean the surface well. This is easier to do before you put on the new piston.

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I then swapped the intake boot, impulse line, decompression valve and AV mount onto the new cylinder. The decompression valve and AV mount can be put on after the cylinder is installed but I would defiantly install the intake boot and impulse line before. The AV mount spring has to be removed before you can get to the screw. It is as simple as turning the spring to unscrew it.

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to be continued…
 
... Here is a comparison between the 6401 and 7900 cylinders. The 7900 cylinder is OEM but I was a little disappointed with the casting quality. The bore looked great but the intake port had casting marks and around the spark plug hole the cooling fin is missing some material. It is not poor quality by any means but I was surprised that 6400 cylinder was a much cleaner casting.

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Comparing the pistons....

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Alright, back to the install. If there is not a wrist pin clip in either side of your new piston, install one side before connecting it to the crank. Now lube up the wrist pin with some 2 cycle oil and slide it through the piston and connecting rod. The arrow on the piston is to point to the exhaust port. Now it is time to install the other clip. The clips can be tricky and even frustrating to put in. I have found that the easiest way for me is to put one end of the clip in the piston groove and then to work my way around the clip with the back of a pen. This prevents any kind of galling and won't hurt your finger if you slip.

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Before slipping the cylinder on, make sure both the piston and cylinder are clean and the new gasket is on. I like to wipe them with a rag that’s dipped in premix. This will leave a small coating of oil once the gas evaporates. I also wipe a SMALL amount of oil on the piston ring. (Some say not to oil the ring but I personally have never had a problem when installing one this way). With the piston ring clamped, in the correct position (ends of the ring on either side of the locator pin) gently slide the cylinder over the piston. If it doesn't want to go, don't force it as the ring is probably caught.

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Once all of the cylinder head screws are in, tighten them in steps using an “X” pattern. I usually snug them all up then tighten in two or the passes to ensure even seating and clamping force.
to be continued…
 
... The hard part of this install is over. Now you just have to reassemble a few things and you are ready for break-in. During the conversion, I also installed the HD air filter kit. I coughed up an additional $18 for the black cylinder cover so everything would match. :clap:

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Here is the final product. :cheers:

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I truly would appreciate any critique on the install or steps that would make the install better or easier. I realize that a lot of these steps are so easy they may be insulting some but that was not my intent. Thanks again and I hope this will help some of you during your install.
 
Have you fired it up yet? Inquiring minds want to know how it runs with the upgrade. Looks good nice post.
 
Excellent contribution, way to go strong off the line. Great pics. Interesting that some surfaces, like the intake boot flange, that appear to be machined on the 64cc jug look as cast on the 79cc. Let us know how it runs.

Jack
 
Yep she runs!! I haven't even put half a tank through it yet but I can tell it will be a strong runner.

The whole cylinder looks like it has a coating of oxidation on it. I was a little uneasy but then I noticed where the AV mount goes was nice and shiny. I now think that the only part machined after casting (besides the bore) was the AV mounting surface. Hard to tell but here is a pic.

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One thing I completely forgot to mention is retuning. Make sure to richen up both the High and Low settings before firing it up. Obviously fine tune once running and warmed up.
 
excellent job, great photos, ive done 4 installs so far and just slipped the boot off the cylinder 1 less step that doesn't need to be done imho.
 
Nice step-by step. one day i might do the 79er conversion:clap:
 
Great Post!

This is the step by step I have been looking for. Now all I need is a good deal on a 6401....Time to start trolling the local HD's!

Thanks for such detail.
 
I did the same conversion to my 6401. I actually thought the P&C looked really nice. I was impressed with the exhaust port- smooth as a baby's bum!

Good post and good pictures!

I need to get the HD air filter kit- but all my money is tied up in project saws!
 
Just an FYI, you do not need to remove the cylinder-mounted AV spring to remove it from the cylinder. The outer screw hole (that attaches it to the handle) is just large enough to fit a T-27 wrench through to access the screw that holds the mount to the cylinder.
 
Thanks for the positive comments and tips guys. :cheers: It's good to know that it is easy to slip the intake boot off the cylinder. That would definitely save some time if you don't have to trim the limiting cap or reposition it. As for the AV spring, my T-handle wouldn't fit through but I never checked with one of the L wrenches. Good tips guys, lets keep them coming. :clap:
 
Great thread...Definatly rep worthy, but the rep train is running late today...:cheers:
 
great thread.

i noticed those pistons have beefy port windows. i bet they could go through a pretty good weight loss program
 
This is a great thread for anybody thinking about upgrading their 6401 to a 7901.I've been checking my local Canadian "Home Depots",but unfortunately they don't handle the Makita DCS6401 as their rental saw.They use the Echo 520 in my area.I'll have to keep my eyes peeled on the classifieds or ebay I guess if I want a Makita 6401.Anyway great post and good luck on your new 7901 upgrade.
 
Yep she runs!! I haven't even put half a tank through it yet but I can tell it will be a strong runner.

The whole cylinder looks like it has a coating of oxidation on it. I was a little uneasy but then I noticed where the AV mount goes was nice and shiny. I now think that the only part machined after casting (besides the bore) was the AV mounting surface. SNIP

In your initial pics it looks like the mating surface for the muffler isn't machined on the 79cc cylinder. Seems odd if so, you want a good seal there. I figured my eyes deceived me.

Jack
 
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