Nickel Plating Cylinders, DYI

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What is the worst case scenario?

The stuff doesn't hold and I break a ring, or lose compression?


Here's the rest of the bilge rat;


011.JPG


by the by, I don't do videos
 
Fact check... Nickel is harder than glass. It is added into welding electrodes for impact resistance. Welding rods for iron are high nickel. Chainsaw file... yup, nickel. Nickel has an extreme melting temp and highly valued in jet engine production.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alloy_steel

Yup, Nickle is soft "Lika' my head"


Fact check,

Nickle is soft, it is just the binding agent for the silca which is hard.

Yup takes a diamond to cut glass (silca), not so with nickle.

Nickle has many fine properties and shines when mixed with other metals (alloys) or even sand (silca).

Your 'fact' that nickle has an extreme melting point is flawed also.

They mix nickle with silver for brazing purposes which I have found to melt rather easily.


Guess your head is softer than you thought?
 
Ah shoot I'm all for trying the epoxy.
I like it when something that's not supposed to work actually does.
A vid would interesting though. I guess I'm just spoiled to the "multi-media" blast of recent times.
As for pics, if it fails, i'd be curious to see if it's just a ring busted
or if the stuff heats up and burns or melts and gums up the slug to jug.
If it works? what can I say, I'm fond of happy ones too!

i'm just on a low budget and so vicariously enjoy all the experimental procedures
that evryone posts.
 
What do I have to lose?

It be worth 'bout two bits as scrap aluminum eh?


I'm always trying to think 'outside the box'.
 
dogone it i've got a headache and am tryig to stop reading for a while.
i have got to log off for spell.
 
Like said Nickle ain't real hard, in fact silver brazing alloy has a good bit of nickle.


I got a royal screwing off the 'bag' once.

The saw was an old Husqvarna 1100 with significant 'white death'.

I shelled out 'bout $125 + shipping because it was advertised as having a good P&C.

actually it was good on the exhaust side, but the chrome was flaking off the intake side.

I sent the seller an email, he said go pound sand.

Oh well the Femsa ignition and other parts were worth the price so no need to pursue the matter?




I found some Loc-Tite epoxy (Superior metal?) that was high silicon, made a plug a couple thou. under and filled the voids.

Couple coats and a poor mans hone in the lathe seemed to fill the low spots.


I have yet to assemble the old bilge rat, but I do have some pics of the cylinder.

It may hold or it may blow, guess I will find out someday eh?


View attachment 382334

Yes I have since cleaned up the squish band.
It will fail, without doubt. I just wonder whether the epoxy will melt over a few minutes or come off in a solid chunk.
 
Like said Nickle ain't real hard, in fact silver brazing alloy has a good bit of nickle.


I got a royal screwing off the 'bag' once.

The saw was an old Husqvarna 1100 with significant 'white death'.

I shelled out 'bout $125 + shipping because it was advertised as having a good P&C.

actually it was good on the exhaust side, but the chrome was flaking off the intake side.

I sent the seller an email, he said go pound sand.

Oh well the Femsa ignition and other parts were worth the price so no need to pursue the matter?




I found some Loc-Tite epoxy (Superior metal?) that was high silicon, made a plug a couple thou. under and filled the voids.

Couple coats and a poor mans hone in the lathe seemed to fill the low spots.


I have yet to assemble the old bilge rat, but I do have some pics of the cylinder.

It may hold or it may blow, guess I will find out someday eh?


View attachment 382334

Yes I have since cleaned up the squish band.

That looks really bad, run it and start shopping for new parts but...it could take out the bottom end if it sheds crud downwards....
 
It will fail, without doubt. I just wonder whether the epoxy will melt over a few minutes or come off in a solid chunk.


Good to know 'Miss Cleo'.

You may be clairvoyant but can you really see into the future?



I did some research and in fact the stuff will take a pretty good temperature.

I have repaired journals with the stuff that are still holding after 7 years.

The heat and friction will tell the tail fo' sure.

But why should I go further, the great 'pipelayer' has spoken.


In reality, it would be back together if'n I had any real faith it would work.

If it does work, can I have your hard hat?
 
Fact check,

Nickle is soft, it is just the binding agent for the silca which is hard.

Yup takes a diamond to cut glass (silca), not so with nickle.

Nickle has many fine properties and shines when mixed with other metals (alloys) or even sand (silca).

Your 'fact' that nickle has an extreme melting point is flawed also.

They mix nickle with silver for brazing purposes which I have found to melt rather easily.


Guess your head is softer than you thought?


Fact check,

Nickle is soft, it is just the binding agent for the silca which is hard.

Yup takes a diamond to cut glass (silca), not so with nickle.

Nickle has many fine properties and shines when mixed with other metals (alloys) or even sand (silca).

Your 'fact' that nickle has an extreme melting point is flawed also.

They mix nickle with silver for brazing purposes which I have found to melt rather easily.


Guess your head is softer than you thought?

More interesting facts.

Nickel's melting point is 2651 degrees Fahrenheit. If this is low, what do you consider high?

We routinely get parts plated in nickel at nearly 50 Rc hardness. Harness into the 60's is possible. What is soft about that?


I think his head is harder than yours.
 
I think I would save the nickel kit for the out side of a new jug. Make it nice and shiny! The plateing will only give you a couple thousands on the spot you need it, and then you'll have to hone off all the nickel from everywhere else.
 
More interesting facts.

Nickel's melting point is 2651 degrees Fahrenheit. If this is low, what do you consider high?

We routinely get parts plated in nickel at nearly 50 Rc hardness. Harness into the 60's is possible. What is soft about that?


I think his head is harder than yours.
Pure Nickle will never get as hard as 50 Rc, much less into the 60s'. I cut .010" Nickle sheet with household scissors all the time. It can not be hardened. But harder materials can be mixed with it.
 
Yup like I said earlier, Nickle shines (pun intended) when alloyed with other elements.
 
WOW, WOW, WOW!

That is beautiful Sunny!

My old Dentist was an amateur Blacksmith.

He made very nice Damascus blades and such, but that stuff you do is crazy KEWL!
 
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