Revisiting the MS201T

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It takes VERY little to get 6°. I set it with a degree wheel.

What I saw was very impressive in the videos. I request that you post another thread and pics of the timing advance method with pics and the mod you did to the muffler. I wonder if anyone else who has already posted would like the same?:msp_wink:

Pics of a muffler mod are in the thread I did in 2011. There's a link on the previous page.

To adjust the timing, all I do is to thin the key that's cast into the flywheel. You need to thin one side so that the flywheel can be rotated counter clockwise 6° while the crank stays stationary. Then, simply lock the flywheel down by tightening the nut down.

Brad,

I second the motion for pictures on the timing advance.

I've seen your muffler pictures but I too would like to see a couple pics of how you do the timing advance. I completely understand the concept -- just not sure how to do it accurately? How do you get a good reference off the shaft as small as it is? If you have the degree wheel under the flywheel what do you attach it to? If you have it above the flywheel you have to take it off each time you want to file a little more off so how do you get it realigned correctly each time?

As they say, a picture's worth a thousand words, and here I think a couple shots of your process for doing the timing advance would be very helpful.
Thanks.

-Eric

P.S. Don't you mean 6° counterclockwise?
 
I'd hardly call the work needed to make a 201 run like a 200 a 'few slight modifications!'

I climb trees and use chainsaws for a living... a decent running stock saw (with a spark arrestor pulled) is all thats needed to bring in the $$$. Working on saws to that extent is not on my agenda...too bad the 200 is out of production, pull the spark arrestor and tweak the carb was ALL that was needed, really the true, 'few slight modifications'!

However, if the day comes when my 200's finally die, at least I can come here, and get the info so thanks for posting!

PS, I'm still running an 020t in my stable, so hopefully the day is a long way off...
 
fine work, Brad, fine work. i expect when my 200t dies, i'll be having you mod one of these little buggers for me. really impressive gains by the way from stock, almost can't believe my ears.
 
You guys are pushing your luck a bit there.... kinda like asking the colonel to reveal the 11 secret herbs and spices! Brad's given out enough details for anybody competent to be able to do the work themselves. Asking for anything more is like asking to be schooled in a step by step process of how to do the job for idiots! Time to pony up, or start destroying saw boys ;-)

Shaun
 
You guys are pushing your luck a bit there.... kinda like asking the colonel to reveal the 11 secret herbs and spices! Brad's given out enough details for anybody competent to be able to do the work themselves. Asking for anything more is like asking to be schooled in a step by step process of how to do the job for idiots! Time to pony up, or start destroying saw boys ;-)

Shaun

I agree. The mods are very easy. If you read the original thread, it tells you enough info to mod the saw. If you don't feel comfortable doing it still, then send it to brad and have him do it. He doesn't charge all that much.
 
Hell of a job brad!! This last video really showed the difference b.w the mod and stock settings.
 
I've been running an MS192C for a little over a year and have really enjoyed its light weight, balance, etc......On occasion I was wishing the 192 had a wee bit more power so I bit the bullet and had a "snellerized" MS201T sent from Brad.

The transaction was flawless, the saw arrived quickly and MAN I LOVE THIS SAW! I've put a few tanks through it already (both on the ground and in the air) and am really impressed. The saw is a little heavier but for me the weight is worth it for the power......the dogs on the 201 are a big improvement compared to the 192 as well.....

At my house SWMBO (she who must be obeyed) and I have an informal but pretty firm net zero cylinder count rule. If new cylinders come in, old cylinders gotta go out.....To that end I am surveying my iron pile for the best candidate to leave my clutches....

THANKS Brad!!

Rob "stayalert" M
Norwich, VT
 
I bit the bullet and had a "snellerized" MS201T sent from Brad.

Likewise, it is easy to see why Brad has such a huge fan base on this forum. For all your time, effort, the mountains of information you freely supply and the very reasonable fee you charge for your services. I am a BS believer. Hat off to you.

 
l too have a snelerized 201rear handle..…..they are great! l think also one thing we need to understand when going from a ms200 to ms201 is they are a complete different little animal (engine design) and out of the box the strato is nowhere near its potential. Every strato saw owner seems to say the same thing.....it just gets stronger and stronger the more l run it. These little stratoes in my opinion take longer to break in and reach their full potential than their predecessors which would improve through break-in but not as noticably as the newer design strato. Am l on the right page here Brad? The only thing l prefer about the 200t now is the ease of swapping out chains. There is more room and you don't have to line things up so perfect too fit.
 
I've moded several 201Ts as I outlined in the first thread I did on them. It had been a while since I ran a stock one, and wanted to try the new baseline carb settings that are being put out by Stihl. I picked up another new 201T this morning. The H needle was already all the way rich against the stop, as they usually are. The L needle was out about 1 3/8, so I back it out another 1/4 turn to the recommended 1 5/8 turns. Surprisingly, throttle response wasn't that bad off idle. I expected it to be worse. However, the power is still extremely anemic. The saw has very little power and lugs very easily. You'll see the saw run stock in the video below.
Thank you for a lovely thread Brad!

I switched just to me a 201 CE, the person who has had it has replaced the carburetor, and I wonder if there have been different batches on the carburetor (got the old carburetor also)?
The second I wondered, did you end up with the same basic carburetor settings from the first time you modificated the 201 to the latest?

It's not the same type of muffler on 201'en I have compared with the one you have modified, but I estimate that 3/8 "hole provides the same power increase.
 
Brad,
Thanks for researching and developing a solution to the problem of the 200T's production stop. Seeing all the fuss about it, I decided to keep my 200T I got on eBay for 530.00, with the new lightened bar, never been in wood. Strato will eventually be the order of the day, but I am just not quite ready for it. But I am glad to know that when I retire from teaching and start tree climbing for fun and to help others, and I wear out my two 200Ts and the 200R, there will still be an option. Looks like the 201 is now a legit machine.
 
You guys are pushing your luck a bit there.... kinda like asking the colonel to reveal the 11 secret herbs and spices! Brad's given out enough details for anybody competent to be able to do the work themselves. Asking for anything more is like asking to be schooled in a step by step process of how to do the job for idiots! Time to pony up, or start destroying saw boys ;-)

Shaun

oh the irony...
 
Brad, I would like to see what you can get out of a cs355t after a few of your tricks.
 
Thanks Brad! Just like the guys in the original post, I enjoyed that. I run the dog snot outa them 355's and $349 on sherrill tree, they are on heck of a bargain. Only issue ive had is with the oil delivery. It seems like the oil tank cant breath and they get vacume locked. If you loosen the cap to let in air and then tighten back up they oil great. Keep in mind this only happens after about a year of daily use.
 
Thanks Brad! Just like the guys in the original post, I enjoyed that. I run the dog snot outa them 355's and $349 on sherrill tree, they are on heck of a bargain. Only issue ive had is with the oil delivery. It seems like the oil tank cant breath and they get vacume locked. If you loosen the cap to let in air and then tighten back up they oil great. Keep in mind this only happens after about a year of daily use.
sounds like a vent issue..maybe its clogging ?
 
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