scoring in 046....how bad is this

[bikemike]

Hey bike.mike can you elaborate? Not trying to be argumentative, genuinely curious

I agree it was prob run lean and too hard out of the cut. Why once its got new parts would I run 40:1? I've read that running rich can cause just as many problems as lean. Carbon scoring etc.

The running rich you may be thinking about is fuel air ratio. It can build up carbon faster than more oil in the gas. The oil doesn alway burn up by the time it is exhausted and it can build up more as a thick sludge.

 

[bikemike]

I also didn't have a t handle 27 long enough to pull the cylinder bolts. My stihl screntch was too wide. I had a long enough #27 torx bit but wasnt about to use an impact driver to undo something I've never messed with. Picked up a no name t27 from the local stihl dealer. He initially tried to sell me the same wrench combo I already had an insisted it would work. Reason number 4 I'll never go there w questions again, only to pick up a part.

Acid vs grinding...seems like theres far more margin for error w grinding. Again, I'm just a noob but my instincts have served me well so far.


As far as oil mix goes I'll wait for someone else to chime in but new stihl platinum comes at 2.5 oz per gallon which comes to about 49:1. While richer may be better to a point I'd rather run the correct mix and make the adjustments at the carb

My opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it....

Oh yeah now that i read this posted specs are for epa regulations that they test the saws with to pass emissions. To lean on fuel and enough oil to not lock up. Echo is also bad about that too many torched engines ive seen cause ppl stuck with what the book or shop says my echo i didnt even run till i pulled tuning caps to richen it up so it starts runs and dont take an hour to warm up hot enough to run rite

 

[cedarshark]

I hope you did not just polish the aluminum transfer on that cylinder. I have never seen a buffing pad get any aluminum off anything.

 

[PaulB84]

I hope you did not just polish the aluminum transfer on that cylinder. I have never seen a buffing pad get any aluminum off anything.

I haven't done anything yet other than tear it down....but, uh, isnt half this thread about people not using acid to remove transfer?? Randy's video etc?

Or are you specifically saying no to a simple buffing pad vs fap sanding....

 

[huskihl]

You need to get rid of the aluminum first. All a scotchbrite pad will do is make it shine. The piston doesn't care if the bore is shiny. Make sure the grey transfer is all gone

 

[PaulB84]

You need to get rid of the aluminum first. All a scotchbrite pad will do is make it shine. The piston doesn't care if the bore is shiny. Make sure the grey transfer is all gone

I have every intention of doing so. I dont think i ever mentioned using a scotchbrite pad. If I did, apologies.

I intend on first trying by hand (yup, time consuming but safe for a first timer) with the fap sander method as a backup plan.

Unless someone can give me a compelling reason to go w acid, I'm gonna skip that this time around, but I'll definitely be trying it in the future.

Will update w "after" (or rather "in progress" pics later this week.

 

[MarylandGuy]

You need to get rid of the aluminum first. All a scotchbrite pad will do is make it shine. The piston doesn't care if the bore is shiny. Make sure the grey transfer is all gone

I assure you the transfer was gone. It took a little while, but the scotchbrite did do the job. The transfer wasn't too bad to start with.

I did use a heavy duty scotchbrite which made a huge difference. Spinning the buff bob in the cylinder, it heated it up enough where I needed gloves. There was a lot of friction.

 

[drf255]

I have every intention of doing so. I dont think i ever mentioned using a scotchbrite pad. If I did, apologies.

I intend on first trying by hand (yup, time consuming but safe for a first timer) with the fap sander method as a backup plan.

Unless someone can give me a compelling reason to go w acid, I'm gonna skip that this time around, but I'll definitely be trying it in the future.

Will update w "after" (or rather "in progress" pics later this week.

I use both acid AND sanding. Acid first with a Qtip, nice and easy and prepare to rinse. Then neutralize with some type of base (baking/washing soda). Then get yourself a scotchbrite 2" ball that connects to a drill and sone extra scotchbrite pads (all available on amazon). After you're done with the acid, lock jug in vice and spray some WD40 in it. Force a half sheet of scotchbrite into the jug with the ball attached to your drill and hone up and down. Wash with soap and water afterwards. You will be a happy man.

 

[cedarshark]

I wanted to avoid acid if I could, especially after viewing Randy's video above using sandpaper. Not knocking acid, but I figured if something else would work, that might be easier. I bought a 1-1/2 in. Cylinder Buff Bob from Harbor Freight that worked so well, you would have thought it was designed for the MS440's particular bore size. Considering your bore is slightly larger than mine, this product should work great for you as well.

My cylinder wasn't too bad, so I skipped the sandpaper step and went straight to a heavy duty scotchbright pad from Home Depot, wrapped around the Buff Bob. I then spun it with a drill inside the cylinder. Talk about perfect. The previously scored cylinder had a mirror finish when I was done. Here you go:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-half-inch-x-2-inch-cylinder-buff-65000.html

I thought the OP posted this but that is incorrect. It is still bad advice. Aluminum from the piston (in most cases) is melted on to the cylinder because of excessive heat. It cannot be "buffed out" with a buffing pad and scotchbrite. It will only make it shine and difficult to see. I don't see what the huge problem with using acid has become in this thread. It has been used successfully for years and if done with caution and common sense, poses no risk and can be more effective than a grinder and sandpaper.

 

[Full Chisel]

I thought the OP posted this but that is incorrect. It is still bad advice. Aluminum from the piston (in most cases) is melted on to the cylinder because of excessive heat. It cannot be "buffed out" with a buffing pad and scotchbrite. It will only make it shine and difficult to see. I don't see what the huge problem with using acid has become in this thread. It has been used successfully for years and if done with caution and common sense, poses no risk and can be more effective than a grinder and sandpaper.

One of the best and most respected saw builders on here uses that exact method to remove transfer with very good results. See the video on the first page for proof.

 

[cedarshark]

One of the best and most respected saw builders on here uses that exact method to remove transfer with very good results. See the video on the first page for proof.

Suggest you watch the entire video. The process is started with a jewelers grinder,split mandrel and small lengths of plumbers cloth or crocus cloth at high speed. The final step is to clean the cylinder with a scotchbrite pad. For a person doing the occasional cylinder it makes no sense to spend $300 on a jewelers grinder. Acid is perfectly fine. The same builder that discovered the grinder method did it for years with acid.

 

[PaulB84]

What molarity HCL should I be looking for?

Is all muriatic acid diluted to the same strength?

Can someone recommend a commercially available product that has been used successfully in the past?

 

[blsnelling]

I got mine from Lowes.

 

[cedarshark]

Lowes,HD or anywhere that supplies pool muratic acid w/ be fine. A quart will last you 10 yrs

 

[blsnelling]

IIRC, it's sold at Lowes as a concrete cleaner. I'm thinking it may be by the solvents.

 

[Mad Professor]

Muriatic acid is 6 molar, ca. 16-18% HCl by weight. Conc. HCl is 12 molar and harder to find, but works quicker

 

[cedarshark]

The long q-tips(ones found in the doc's office) w/ the wood handles work really well too....but don't make a special trip.

 

[MarylandGuy]

One of the best and most respected saw builders on here uses that exact method to remove transfer with very good results. See the video on the first page for proof.

Yes, I guess the guy knows better than Randy. No sense arguing with him. It reminds me of the debates I have with my neighbor where he says you can burn oak a few months after it's cut and split. I just shake my head and laugh.

 

[olyman]

I thought the OP posted this but that is incorrect. It is still bad advice. Aluminum from the piston (in most cases) is melted on to the cylinder because of excessive heat. It cannot be "buffed out" with a buffing pad and scotchbrite. It will only make it shine and difficult to see. I don't see what the huge problem with using acid has become in this thread. It has been used successfully for years and if done with caution and common sense, poses no risk and can be more effective than a grinder and sandpaper.

dang straight!!!

 

[cedarshark]

Yes, I guess the guy knows better than Randy. No sense arguing with him. It reminds me of the debates I have with my neighbor where he says you can burn oak a few months after it's cut and split. I just shake my head and laugh.

OK...I will take the bait. Just exactly what is your problem w/ oak split and dried for a few months? I BBQ 50 lbs of brisket with it monthly.