Stihl 026 - Change Non-Leaking Crank Seals Anyway?

[SteveSr]

Hello,

I have a pair of 026's that will be rehabbed for trail construction and maintenance duty. We would like them to be basically trouble free for the next 5-10 years assuming that they are maintained and stored properly. One dates to the post "Pro" introduction as it has the newer tank, crankcase, and top cover (I think this was about '96). The other one is sometime before this. These saws have been used for homeowner firewood cutting before being put on a shelf when the owner couldn't get them to run any more (likely fuel system issues).

I haven't torn into them yet but I am anticipating not finding any bad crank seals. As such the question then becomes should I get them replaced anyway to head off any future problems? Unfortunately I don't have the $200 Stihl seal puller tool which means having to take these to a local shop to have them do it at additional cost.

Based on you experiences are these seals likely to last considerably longer considering the low homeowner hours on these saws?

Thanks,

Steve

 

[HarleyT]

The older OEM seals are probably better than the junk ones that will likely be put back in them, even if you paid for the newer OEM ones.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

You could always wait until they go bad, if they ever do..I have some 40 year old saws that still have good seals in them and I'm sure not gonna mess with them.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

By the way, you really don't need the Stihl puller to pull the seals out.

 

[KMSwr]

By the way, you really don't need the Stihl puller to pull the seals out.

How do you get them out then?

 

[HarleyT]

Just grind a cheapo screwdriver or pick, and fashion a tool to grab the little S.O.B.s....

 

[KMSwr]

Even the skinny 024 seals?

 

[HarleyT]

Club the baby ones....

 

[bikemike]

Replace to seals. if they had crap fuel in them they could be a bit hard and will leak when you least expect it it's winter so it's the best time to do it before the busy season comes

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

30 yr old Stihl 034, seals tested good... no plans to change them out.

 

[SteveSr]

You could always wait until they go bad, if they ever do..I have some 40 year old saws that still have good seals in them and I'm sure not gonna mess with them.

Good real world data point!

 

[SteveSr]

Just grind a cheapo screwdriver or pick, and fashion a tool to grab the little S.O.B.s....

Photos! We need photos! I would like to see the home made puller small enough yet strong enough to get the flywheel side seal out without scratching the crankshaft.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The clutch side seal is fairly easy to get out because it's bigger. I ground a square notch in one side of a flat screwdriver to hook under the rubber side of the seal then just pull it out. The flywheel side is tougher but if you work at it I'm sure you can pull it out also. Just be careful you don't scratch the crank where the seal rides or it might leak.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Photos! We need photos! I would like to see the home made puller small enough yet strong enough to get the flywheel side seal out without scratching the crankshaft.

I had a pic of my puller/screwdriver but I must have deleted it. You might try a search and find it or another one.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Here's a link to the seal puller I posted to. http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/homemade-seal-puller.296115/

 

[SteveSr]

The clutch side seal is fairly easy to get out because it's bigger. I ground a square notch in one side of a flat screwdriver to hook under the rubber side of the seal then just pull it out. The flywheel side is tougher but if you work at it I'm sure you can pull it out also. Just be careful you don't scratch the crank where the seal rides or it might leak.

I'll take a look at it when I get everything apart. I am thinking that there is only about .030-.050" between the crank and the metal rim of the seal on the flywheel side. Like you said something with a small but strong hook. I am thinking about cutting the rubber at the seal rim with an Xacto knife and putting whatever tool in the cut and letting the rubber stay between the crank and tool to protect the crank.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

That's probably not necessary, you just have to be a little careful not to press the tool against the crank too much, the crank is fairly hard. I have an Echo 400 EVL that needs seals but I hesitate to mess with it because I don't have much luck with Echos doing anything..

 

[SteveSr]

Here's a link to the seal puller I posted to. http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/homemade-seal-puller.296115/

Thanks for the link. At least I have a few ideas for making a tool if it comes to that.

 

[blsnelling]

Just be careful you don't scratch the crank where the seal rides or it might leak.

More likely is buggering up the case. Be sure to use sealant between the seal and case and to lube the rubber lips of the seal. Vac test after assembly.

 

[SteveSr]

More likely is buggering up the case. Be sure to use sealant between the seal and case and to lube the rubber lips of the seal. Vac test after assembly.

What do you recommend for sealant? I am envisioning how to get thick Dirko or equivalent into the press fit gap between the seal and case. If you put the sealant in the case the seal installation will push it into the case. If you put it on the seal the case will scrape it off as the seal is pressed in. Suggestions?