Super EZ

[a. palmer jr.]

Got some Homelite Super EZ saws to work on, one seems to have an air leak because I'm having trouble getting it to idle down and even then it's erratic, up and down. Just wondering what's the most likely place for these to leak. I checked the carburetor bolts and gasket and they're okay.

 

[lecbr600]

Got some Homelite Super EZ saws to work on, one seems to have an air leak because I'm having trouble getting it to idle down and even then it's erratic, up and down. Just wondering what's the most likely place for these to leak. I checked the carburetor bolts and gasket and they're okay.

A couple of years ago, I rebuilt a super EZ, changing a lot of things...
If you need to split it, take into account that the rolling bearing are difficult to find. Only NOS.

About your question, I'm sorry, I do not have any specific idea for a likely place for leaks...

Inviato dal mio Moto G (4) utilizzando Tapatalk

 

[Okie]

I've been flogging some donor EZ's on and off for about last year and just completed a rough one today. Thread is here about the erratic EZ.
I've suspected crankcase leaks on some of these and never have found one leaking yet. I have a mityvac that will do both pressure and vac and made a carb adapter plate with a port for the carb, a block off plate for the muffler port and leave the spark plug in and rotate the piston down and or rotate the crank while testing. Couple of these saws acted erratic and pressure would leak down from 5 to about 3 slow on one of them and would hold a vac and I could not find a leak using soap and water and so I went to the points wico ignition area and lots of oil in the points box and the points were at .008 instead of .015. The top gasket on the points box was good and the felt so I removed the points box and the lower felt was detoriated letting oil get into the points. I had new set of points with the felt seal and the saw ran ok with new points.
If a carb kit/ fuel filter and fuel hose don't make one run good I do a pressure/vac test of the crankcase and was surprised that I have yet to see a old ez with a seal issue.
I've noticed one of the EZ saws that was really scared and beat up had a hard epoxy on the bottom of the case at the bottom of the block at the little square block portion of the block. Suspected maybe someone had seen a crack in the block or ?? at this area but all was ok when vac/pressure tested. The saw needed a carb kit.

Also when vac/pressure testing a EZ if you want to check the clutch sprocket side seal you will have to remove the oiler gear that is around the crank to see the crank seal inside. After you remove the thrust washer behind the sprocket you can pull the sleeve gear out with a awl. (the gear just friction slip fits onto the crank and this area is not the main crankshaft seal for that side although it looks like such) Most generally when a saw is running erratic up and down and you remove or loosen the chain and it changes symptoms very much it's a hint that the bar side crank seal leaking.

Bottom line is I've yet to find a EZ crankcase seal leaking, either the HDC carb needs kitted. the carb needles seat is dirty and the saw floods, the screen in the carb clogged, one or more of the itty bitty idle, main or intermediate holes is restricted. When you have the HDC carb apart clean all 4 of the itty bitty holes. One is a inlet to let gas into them and it has a little brass orfice. Be sure and check the meter lever Heigth as flush per Walbro instructions on their support site for HDC carbs. I use a small dab of Vaseline to hold the little spring in the carb body and little bit on the metering lever pivot and on the needle to hold all in place when stabbing. You have to remove the lever and bend at the needle end, not the lever end. Bending up at the lever end instead of the needle end can produce a lean carb condition, because the needle is not lifting enough, even though the lever is high for a rich condition.
I've found that being just little bit high on the lever is better than little bit low on the metering lever and the carb H and L will also vary somewhat with where the metering lever is set and most of these saws are at 3/4 t on the L for rich side and around 1 for rich on the H for 4 cycling. (and some want a almost full in on the idle speed screw)

I posted some tips on here about week ago on how to reduce the PITA re-install for the Homelite EZ HDC carb throttle linkage that is underneath the carb. Briefly I tie the carb throttle wide open with a tag tie wire, and then take a 3/32 drill bit and carefully ream the throttle linkage hole at a 45 degree angle and this will give the hole some guidance lead for stabbing the linkage when the carb has to be laid sideways to get the hook-up. You can also dress the 45 degree hole if you have a sharp tipped hand reamer. A 5/16 ratcheting gear wrench is also a big plus on the long winded carb bolts. After the carb is installed cut the tie wire and pull out the wire with needle nose pliers.

 

[Okie]

Got some Homelite Super EZ saws to work on, one seems to have an air leak because I'm having trouble getting it to idle down and even then it's erratic, up and down. Just wondering what's the most likely place for these to leak. I checked the carburetor bolts and gasket and they're okay.

Most generally on other type saws I've found it's usually the sprocket chain side crankcase seal, but EZ's seem to have a real good seal life. Have not seen a bad EZ crankshaft seal yet. (and I would have to search and ask about how to replace such)

If you have more than one EZ and one is running good I would think about installing a know to be good donor carb onto the erratic acting saw. This will let you know if the issue is other than a possible erratic carb. Sometimes you can leave the end off the EZ muffler and if the saw is running real rich you can see the rich flooding wetness inside the muffler exhaust at the piston even though the saw is not smoking very much. (exhaust is staying wet and saw is erratic)Carb is flooding and staying rich and sometimes the carb may drip little bit of gas inside the air box.
Check my tips for how to reduce the PITA re-stab of a EZ carb's.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Yes, I guess it's possible that the carb is bad. I have a couple of boxes of parts and I'm sure there's an extra carb or two in there. I also thought that the intake block might have a leak but haven't tested it out yet. I may rig up a pressure vac test for this saw since I have several now.

 

[Okie]

itty bitty

Yes, I guess it's possible that the carb is bad. I have a couple of boxes of parts and I'm sure there's an extra carb or two in there. I also thought that the intake block might have a leak but haven't tested it out yet. I may rig up a pressure vac test for this saw since I have several now.

I'm no expert on the EZ's just lots of hands on experience.
When I first started fiddling with some of the older erratic acting doggy ones I also suspected and wondered about the intake block and reed valve area behind the carb and have yet to find a bad one. Seems kinda bullet proof area behind the carb. Most generally I've found it's either the HDC carb or the points. (on the points/condenser ign's)

Also when cleaning and kitting the HDC carb be sure and clean/probe the 4 itty bitty holes under the metering lever cover plate. Here is a link to give you an idea, note L1, 2, 3 and H1. I can use a itty bitty tag wire for the L's but have to go to a carb jet cleaning set and use the smallest one to probe the H1 hole. H1 is the gas feed hole for the other 3, I think. If H1 is clogged the carb won't operate at all, engine won't start or run.
If any one of these itty bitty holes is restricted the carb won't perform correctly. See fig 11 and 12. (they are the Low, High and intermediate feed holes for the engine)
http://www.drystacked.com/Walbro Carburetor Theory 27Jun2010.pdf

This is not a exact HDC carb but it will give you the idea. I cannot seem to locate the exact HDC carb pictures of the transistion holes at this moment. I also do a pressure test of the gas intake after kitting and it should hold at least 3 lbs pressure. I think it's spec'ed at 10. If it won't hold pressure the needle or seat is most generally leaking and the HDC carb will flood or sometimes before kitting if a HDC is running real rich I pressure test before taking the carb apart.

At least you know when you get a EZ up and going it's a good little saw for it's size and built to last for Bubba vs the disposable plastic junk of modern times.
Just takes some patience fiddling with re-stabbing the carb plus few other things.
See my tips for re-stabbing the HDC down into the air box. My tips will save you lots of time and pain especially tieing the throttle a full open and carefully reaming the throttle linkage hole at a 45 degree angle with a 3/32 drill bit or sharp pointed hand reamer to give the throttle wire a lead in channel and glue to intake gasket to the carb on one side and oil the other side so the gasket is re-useable and stays aligned during re-install or vice versa.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I just bought a HDC kit for one of them and a few of the base gaskets so I'll get out there in a day or two and see how it works. I also bought a new gallon of carb cleaner to dip them in. I got a couple of them to run but I'm gonna try for four usable saws out of the bunch..

 

[fossil]

If you do need crank seals, an SKF 4913 is a direct replacement for both sides. Poulan used the same seals in their Micro series.

 

[Okie]

If you do need crank seals, an SKF 4913 is a direct replacement for both sides. Poulan used the same seals in their Micro series.

Good info about the seals.
How do you remove the old seals?

 

[Okie]

Them little high priced carb base intake gaskets are easily made using a good one as a pattern.

Here is a Walbro Service manual download link for their carb's.
Click on HDC for the exploded view and pay attention to the proper layout of the gaskets. (and keep a heads up and be sure and use the correct circuit plate gasket #19 for your carb. Two #19's in the K10 kit and match the correct one to your old removed one.
http://www.walbro.com/service-manuals/
I do not remove the itty bitty screen #39 under the circuit plate 41 because their are not any check valve serviceable replaceable parts for the check valve area in the kit for under the screen (their is a little screen and keeper ring in the K10-HDC kit) but the little soft top check valve under the screen could be easily damaged trying to remove or re-install the screen and keeper) and I would not leave the HDC in a carb cleaner for very long if at all because the little check valve seat assembly has a rubberized top. I just use a ultrasonic with a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water and heated solution for cleaning and use tag wire the little holes then use low pressure air (not over 20 psi) thru the orffices. If the carb is going to be stored as a spare air dry it and lube with WD40 or eq because the vinegar will eventually rust the metal surfaces if allowed to dry on them.
I just clean the little check valve screen good with a small soft brush and little bit of air pressure and inspect it thru a magnifying glass.

 

[fossil]

On the seals with a little larger metal case, I carefully drill a small hole in the seal case and screw in a fine thread drywall screw (maybe two threads in) and pull it out. With pliers, a small claw hammer or whatever.
Some seals are stubborn and can use a little tap further into the saw case to get them broken loose of any sealer, dry oil etc

On little ones like the 4913, I made a tool that lots of guys use, out of an old screwdriver. A piece of steel rod or something similar would work as well.

Looks like the pic below. Just slide it down the crankshaft, turn it so the tool lip is under the seal's steel case and pop it out. I usually attach a pair of vice grips to the tool and give them a smack upwards. You might have to move the tool and repeat. Don't worry about scratching the crankshaft as they are very hard.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

If you do need crank seals, an SKF 4913 is a direct replacement for both sides. Poulan used the same seals in their Micro series.

I wonder how difficult it is to install them, I'll bet they're kinda small. I guess you already addressed that. I did have a tool similar to yours but I made it out of a cheap screwdriver and it broke. The next one I make will be a good screwdriver but I'll get it from a yard sale. I haven't done a pressure test on the saw yet, just now cleaned the carburetor and glued the gasket onto it.

 

[fossil]

I wonder how difficult it is to install them, I'll bet they're kinda small. I guess you already addressed that. I did have a tool similar to yours but I made it out of a cheap screwdriver and it broke. The next one I make will be a good screwdriver but I'll get it from a yard sale. I haven't done a pressure test on the saw yet, just now cleaned the carburetor and glued the gasket onto it.

I find the easiest way (for me there is no easy way) to install seals is to use an appropriate size socket with a large washer between the socket and the seal. That will help keep the seal level as you tap it in. I find without the washer the lead in on the socket will keep cocking the seal.

If you used a grinder to make the tool, it was likely hardened when it got hot making it very brittle.

Next time, try annealing it after you grind it. Heat it up red hot with a torch and let it cool as slowly as possible.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The last one I used was a very cheap made in China screwdriver and doubt if it could have been hardened if I tried. I used a Dremel last time but I will try your method next time..

 

[fossil]

The last one I used was a very cheap made in China screwdriver and doubt if it could have been hardened if I tried. I used a Dremel last time but I will try your method next time..

A little more heat treatment info and how to.

heat treating
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hardening-and-Tempering-a-Screw-Driver-softening/

color chart
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/tempering-colors-steel-d_1530.html

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Decided to call it a day and came back into the house. Tomorrow I'll try to install the carb on the EZ and see how it does. If it runs the same I'll have to assume it's an air leak. I'm also thinking that carb would be nice on one of my other EZs, one of which I know it has a bad one because of corrosion. I don't know where these saws were stored by it must have been awfully damp.

 

[andrethegiant70]

Decided to call it a day and came back into the house. Tomorrow I'll try to install the carb on the EZ and see how it does. If it runs the same I'll have to assume it's an air leak. I'm also thinking that carb would be nice on one of my other EZs, one of which I know it has a bad one because of corrosion. I don't know where these saws were stored by it must have been awfully damp.

Mr Palmer, you DO like your vintage saws. Good work, man! In the old days, I could have "repped" you... but we'll have to do with a "like."

EZs are fun little guys... they make a great sound.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Mr Palmer, you DO like your vintage saws. Good work, man! In the old days, I could have "repped" you... but we'll have to do with a "like."

EZs are fun little guys... they make a great sound.

Actually, I like SOME of the vintage saws, not all. I just bought a Poulan 3400 today, nice saw but has broken piston which I plan to replace. I also own a Super XLAO and a Poulan 306A, I guess you'd have to say they are vintage. I don't have any new saws.

 

[Okie]

Decided to call it a day and came back into the house. Tomorrow I'll try to install the carb on the EZ and see how it does. If it runs the same I'll have to assume it's an air leak. I'm also thinking that carb would be nice on one of my other EZs, one of which I know it has a bad one because of corrosion. I don't know where these saws were stored by it must have been awfully damp.

Dampness related probably: I seen a EZ and a old McCulloch that the corrosion was in the gas tank. I think the McCulloch was actually a brown mold of some type. The EZ was the aluminum whittish corrosion.

It took several attempts to get the tanks clean enough that the fine gunk would not clog the filters in the carb.
The finer material would get through the in tank filter and clog the sintered iron filter in the McCulloch carb and the screen in the EZ and the saws would start starving for gas. (which will possibly produce a lean condition a cause a saw to overheat if trying to run at full throttle in a loaded cut)

Take a good light a make a close visual inspection inside the gas tanks of the old stored saws. If corroded you will probably have to clean the carb filter few times even with a good new in tank filter even after cleaning the tank.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I don't have to look in the tank, I can see it when I take the cap off, white corrosion all over it. I don't know if all the EZs I have are like that but I know some cleaning is gonna happen. Got any ideas of what to use to clean that stuff out? I tried a little wire brush around the threaded area of the tank and it didn't do much. A friend of mine has a bunch of carburetors in a big tote when I want to sort it out, I have a few carburetors but they are mainly for parts, nothing I can use on these EZs.