Thinking about buying a super splitter...

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log splitter

have a .ek 308 lickety split just sold a baileys 26 ton looking to by a northern 37 ton new the splitter good bad ? cordwood here on li ny 250 $ a cord tom trees:greenchainsaw:
 
Ordered the SuperSplitter today

Alright,

Y'all convinced me. I ordered the Heavy Duty model w/6hp Subaru Robbins, production table and in the non-highway trailerable version, which has a higher working surface than the trailerable. I chose the HD over the lower priced J model due partly to the higher "grunt" of the engine, but also because the design doesn't cause the rack to spring up at the end of the push cycle for it to return. The rack springing up on the J model opens a little space for chips and slivers to get caught under there and tanoak does tend to produce little wedges and slivers as it's split. The difference in price is just a couple cords. The HD model only has 1/16" clearance so less likely to gather anything substantial.

The only thing that tears me up is the shipping from Mass. to Northern CA!!! :cry: $507, and I have to go to the loading terminal with my truck over an hour away, so that's an addit'l $20 in gas, etc. But I'm sure in the end it'll be worth it to have the snappiest tanoak splitters in the area.

I'll let you know in a couple weeks how it runs/splits for me.
 
Plant Biologist, you must be from my area if you saw that at the common ground fair. What town are you in? Let me tell you though, I cut 50 cord a year on one, and it holds up just fine.

Sorry, just seen your post. I am up in Old Town. It looked great, and sure it would hold up, but it looks dinky compared a traditional splitter.
 
The Super-Splitter came in today and it took about two hours to set it up. It comes with the engine, wheel support/axles and wheels and front support, as well as work table, disassembled. I was able to lift it with my Cat 950 FEL and chain in order to support it to put those things on. It's quite heavy and I think that without the FEL a come-along or something else would be required to lift it to assemble it.

One minor critique: there were no unpacking nor assembly instructions, but it's fairly straightforward if you're mechanically inclined. The operating and maintenance booklet is adequate and contains a complete parts breakdown and listing. One nut securing the "go" handle bolt was not as tight as it should have been.

The SS design is startlingly and cleverly simple. When I first looked at the mechanics of it I was tempted to think they'd left a bunch of parts out. But the system is elegant in its simplicity. It looks light, but believe me, it's substantial with those two big flywheels and the push rack and I-beam and worktable. Very sturdy.

One funny: there are decals warning that if you're a person that doesn't read safety manuals or are a person without common sense or are a person that doesn't respect the danger of mechanical things, don't operate this machine!

The Subaru-Robbins 6hp started on the first pull. It's very quiet. Surprisingly so.

Now as to performance:

In a quick test before nightfall I split about 15 pieces of very green, heavy tanoak and some semi-dry fir. Tanoak ranging from 8" thru 15" on up to a 150lb beasty about 28" across. I've got to tell you, I think I died and went to heaven! The splitter is fast! A couple seconds per piece. The worktable is so great when splitting larger pieces... no picking them up off the ground, and following splits push the formerly split pieces off the end into the split pile, so no handling of the splits.

Our regular hydraulic splitter would have seriously grunted and strained at the big 28" piece before splitting it. The SS went through it like it wasn't there! I pulled one half back and got 5 sections out of that, and then the other half lickity-split. A total of 10 sections from that piece in about 1/3 time it would have taken me before and that's without knowing what I was doing. Knotted pieces and yokes, no problem either.

I can see that it will take some practice to extract all the speed benefit the SS is capable of, as I have to change the way I think about splitting and wood handling. The bottleneck now changes to how fast I can get logs to the splitter, at the right elevation so I don't have to lift. I also have to be strict about the habit of not putting my hand on the "go" handle until I'm ready to split, for safety reasons. No resting the "trigger" hand there. This thing is that fast and there would be little time to remove my hand if its between the wood and the splitting blade. The right method is use both hands to position the log making sure the wood is against the blade, then place the left hand on top of the wood, right hand then pulls the "go" handle. It's a snappy routine.

First impressions? Very impressed. Very sturdy and simple. Very fast. More later as I gain experience.
 
one habit we found on my splitter.

NEVER NEVER NEVER put your hand on either end of hte log. we yell at each other to learn it.
 
seems too much of a good thing can be bad... what I'm referring to is the super fast cycle times.

does the mfg keep track of accidents?

wonder how many folks have gotten hurt on these splitters?
 
seems too much of a good thing can be bad... what I'm referring to is the super fast cycle times.

does the mfg keep track of accidents?

wonder how many folks have gotten hurt on these splitters?

I hear you, but keep in mind that this is essentially a professional machine, intended for people pumping out dozens up to low hundreds of cords/yr. The pricing is such that the casual user won't generally bother. By the very nature of the design, newbies don't buy these splitters. People that have worked with a hydraulic splitter and are looking for the next step up just under a full wood processor investment do. It's perfectly safe as long as the operator understands that you don't put your hand on the business end of the log and have your other hand near the handle. Very simple. I'm sorry if I gave the impression of any undue danger.

The other thing to consider is the number of injuries -including micro-injuries to hands, arms and backs that don't go immediately noticed- that happen on slow splitters due to having to pry partially split wood apart by hand (happens a lot with tanoak), back injuries from tossing the split pieces and/or picking up pieces from the ground to re-split, and the many injuries that occur from fatigue and mental loss of focus from the slow work and standing there waiting.

I (speaking only for myself now) would much rather work sharp and with full focus and fresh muscles for 2 hours at a fast clip than plod into a tiring and dangerous stupor for 6 or more hours to split the same amount of wood. There are a lot of ways to measure safety. Time at task and fatigue are proven serious threats. I know myself and I know the kinds of injuries and back strain I get from hovering over the hydraulic splitter.

For me and my work style this is overall much safer for me and best suits the cycle and timing of things I need to do around the log deck, caveat on putting the hand on the end of the piece kept in mind. Each person must judge these things for themselves and their particular situation.
 
There is a way to have super quick cycle times in a hydraulic splitter. Its called BIG pump and lots of power. Surprisingly however this setup is very thrifty on fuel. I would go as far as to say no more than a 5hp Briggs. That JD diesel can't even feel that pump at all. Cycle times under 6secs and the unit will tip vertical for the big ones. No2 stage to slow me down here. Raw speed and power!!!
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That's a nice looking rig, IF you already have the $30,000 tractor, but it still has the wedge mounted to the ram. That by itself slows down production by keeping the pieces right under foot!

Like was mentioned before, the return of the carriage is automatic on the Super Split.

I'm still looking for a used one but may buy new since it's only a 3 hour drive to the factory!
 
The wedge on the ram is a big plus in my book. Thats what allows vertical use and if one ever gets stuck ( almost never happens) you can retract the ram out. I would be curious to know how well that Super Split does on curly elm? I have a pressure gauge on that unit and most wood does split under 300lbs. However get into some really tough stuff and I might be on the relief valve the whole way through. And the 3pt unit allow infinite positioning of height for the operator. I'm going to add a table and a seat for the operator that will plug into the receiver. This unit can go to the woods or wherever and tow my wagon or trailer behind so its adds to the versatility. If you already own a tractor ( which most do that do firewood) this setup makes alot of sense.
 
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wkpoor,

Slick setup! Boy am I jealous. :clap: If I had the PTO diesel tractor, that's probably what I would have done instead of SS. In our situation I have a lot of stuff that wouldn't be appropriate for vertical splits (smaller) and the horizontal position with some sort of work table or tray would be the trick.

I'll keep our gas powered hydraulic splitter around, in the vertical position, to split the big (heavy) rounds in half before using the SS.
 
The wedge on the ram is a big plus in my book. Thats what allows vertical use and if one ever gets stuck ( almost never happens) you can retract the ram out. I would be curious to know how well that Super Split does on curly elm? I have a pressure gauge on that unit and most wood does split under 300lbs. However get into some really tough stuff and I might be on the relief valve the whole way through. And the 3pt unit allow infinite positioning of height for the operator. I'm going to add a table and a seat for the operator that will plug into the receiver. This unit can go to the woods or wherever and tow my wagon or trailer behind so its adds to the versatility. If you already own a tractor ( which most do that do firewood) this setup makes alot of sense.

Thats a great option, with lots of advantages, Eric
 
How much did that splitter cost you? And where did you get it from?
It started out as a Speeco 3pt splitter with stand. I chucked the stand (who needs that anyway). Then I had a local fab shop build the tank and frame and mount the cylinder and beam setup on it. Then I plumbed it and bought all the fittings out of McMaster Carr catalog.Tank is 21gal to match the Prince pump capacity. The pump I bought direct from Prince approx. $400.00. All total about $1500.00 in it.
I know there are alot of splitters on the market with 20+GPM pumps but they are all 2 stage. And most when they hit the 2nd stage its a 10th the speed. This unit is one stage so it never slows down regardless of how tough the log is. I compared it side by side with the same cylinder setup with 5.5 Briggs and its a minimum of 4xs faster. This is the 3rd season for the rig and in all around use in the woods, back home,in all kinds of wood it has proven to be a versatile design that is comfortable to use and FAST!!!. The diesel is thrifty on fuel because it is loafing at turning that pump. It really doesn't appear to use any more fuel than the Briggs model does.
 
Update

I said I'd give an update after I got some wood through the Super Split. This afternoon I did a couple cords of tanoak and about a quarter cord of green Douglass Fir and another half cord of dry Doug Fir.

The green tanoak (which is what I bought the SS for), I can split easily at any size and knots or no knots is just right-now fast... 2 second cycle time. So I'm delighted.

The green fir, interestingly, can slow things down a bit. A straight split was no problem. If I got it in a little cockeyed it didn't like to cut diagonally and I'd have to bang it two or three times or take it off and straighten the log out. Also, if there was a substantial knot in it would hang up and sometimes I'd have to flip the log around to avoid a direct slice of the knot.

The dry fir, which was 30 inches across, split easily although the occasional knot would require a couple hits.

So I think if you have some seriously gnarly wood that is famous for being tough you'd need to try the SS on it before you buy one as compared to a higher end hydraulic.

But for "normal" hardwood firewood production, in my case tanoak, the SS is a perfect fit. Even with my inexperience with it, splitting was so fast that I had to move the splitter back a couple feet every few minutes. So a conveyor is next. I can see that if I get my ducks lined up that 5 cords a day would be a reasonable short day for me.
 
The more you use it the beter you will get at reading the knots and knowing where to hit the block. That is the learning curve I talk about when using this splitter. I'm gladyour happy with it. I love mine.

Scott
 
Purchased a splitter

Hey folks.... I'm fairly new to this sight, signed on this year. I love it it's filled with very proffesional people that don't mind sharing their knowledge.

I just bought a TSC spliter, when I picked it up the sales rep told me NEVER run it at less than full throttle as teh motor will not cool properly and always use high test gas. It has a 12.5 HP B&S motor.

I don't know about your area, but we are going to hit 4.00 for hightest soon. Does it really matter?

Any thoughts?

Thank you!!
 
The more you use it the beter you will get at reading the knots and knowing where to hit the block. That is the learning curve I talk about when using this splitter. I'm gladyour happy with it. I love mine.

Scott

Scott,

Thanks for the encouragement. I lay all the blame for us buying the SS at your feet. ;)

One addition to my observations in my previous post. My hands, wrists and arms aren't beat up and sore like they'd be if I split a few cords with my hydraulic splitter. There's no pulling, pushing or tossing. The only "work" involved is getting the wood to the splitter.

Another addition (a minor criticism that I'll pass on to the mfg) is that the work table the comes with the SS has curved up lips to hold the split wood from falling off the sides. The table edge was cut with a shear and then the lip bent up with a bender. The sheared edge is sharp and gave my father a small slice when he came out to help me a bit. So the mfg needs to spend a couple minutes de-burring that edge. I'll take a file to it to fix that.
 
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