What replacement bar and chain for Poulan Pro 5020Av

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cornfused

Saw & Firewood HACK
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Gentlemen... Newbie question
After having used this saw for about 2 cords I managed to smoke the bar (plugged oil ports & didn't catch it in really dirty wood). I have been on the Oregon site and they recommend D72 bar & chain combo. The local Poulan (service?) center says D70. Who's right??? I want to get a bar & chain combo that will allow me to use the original chain as a second chain.
 
Gentlemen... Newbie question
After having used this saw for about 2 cords I managed to smoke the bar (plugged oil ports & didn't catch it in really dirty wood). I have been on the Oregon site and they recommend D72 bar & chain combo. The local Poulan (service?) center says D70. Who's right??? I want to get a bar & chain combo that will allow me to use the original chain as a second chain.

How many drive links in your original chain? Not trying to be a wise-ass, but since you are new to this site, I don't know how much you know about this, so here goes. The drive links are the "tits" on the side of the chain that is opposite the cutters. They engage the drive sprocket. Count them. I'm guessing you'll get 70.
 
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If just needing bar for OEM chain that came with it 70DL

It comes with 20" 3/8 050 70 drive link bar and chain. If you are wanting 20" still I would go with 72 drive link bar and chain which is easier to find for you maybe. K095 mount.

I like the 16" 60dl on put on my test 5016. ;)
 
How many drive links in your original chain? Not trying to be a wise-ass, but since you are new to this site, I don't know how much you know about this, so here goes. The drive links are the "tits" on the side of the chain that is opposite the cutters. They engage the drive sprocket. Count them. I'm guessing you'll get 70.

Dswensen....
Sorry - should have included that vital little piece of info. It has 70 drive teeth (boobies).:msp_blink:
 
How many drive links in your original chain? Not trying to be a wise-ass, but since you are new to this site, I don't know how much you know about this, so here goes. The drive links are the "tits" on the side of the chain that is opposite the cutters. They engage the drive sprocket. Count them. I'm guessing you'll get 70.

My PP5020 has OEM b&c with 70 DL. Interestingly my 455R came with same nominal length ("20 inch") bar, but chain has 72 DL. Some day soon, I'll have to measure the difference between the bars.

And, not trying to preach, but whenever running a chainsaw, monitor the chips/dust being thrown and any smoking part of the saw. Dull chain won't cut it. Dogging in, and "standing" on the chain are a recipe for failure. Especially with dirty wood, file the chain often; swap out the OEM chisel chain for semi-chisel, or chipper.

Much better yet, take a hatchet to slash off the dirty bark.
 
If just needing bar for OEM chain that came with it 70DL

It comes with 20" 3/8 050 70 drive link bar and chain. If you are wanting 20" still I would go with 72 drive link bar and chain which is easier to find for you maybe. K095 mount.

I like the 16" 60dl on put on my test 5016. ;)

JeremiahJohnson...
Thanks... 70DL is the bar # from Oregon?? How do I determine if the new bar is designed for the K095 mount on my saw?? Just askin' for future ref.
 
My PP5020 has OEM b&c with 70 DL. Interestingly my 455R came with same nominal length ("20 inch") bar, but chain has 72 DL. Some day soon, I'll have to measure the difference between the bars.

And, not trying to preach, but whenever running a chainsaw, monitor the chips/dust being thrown and any smoking part of the saw. Dull chain won't cut it. Dogging in, and "standing" on the chain are a recipe for failure. Especially with dirty wood, file the chain often; swap out the OEM chisel chain for semi-chisel, or chipper.

Much better yet, take a hatchet to slash off the dirty bark.

CTYank..
Yeah!!! the tree was bifubricated (two trunks) and the split was full of old, hard packed dirt. By the time I noticed the smoke it was tooooo late and yes you're right I was bearing down much too hard. Know better from now on!!! 'Preciate the info
 
So, if you have not figured it out yet, Oregon uses letters to designate chains sold through consumer channels - hardware stores, home centers, etc. This is to simplify things for consumers instead of trying to teach them about pitch, gauge, cutter types, and drive link counts.

S = series 91, 3/8 low profile pitch, .050 gauge chain
R = series 90, 3/8 low profile pitch, narrow kerf, .043 gauge chain
H = series 20 BPX, .325 pitch, .050 gauge chain
J = series 21 BPX, .325 pitch, .058 gauge chain
L = series 22 BPX, .325 pitch, .063 gauge chain
G = series 95V, .325 pitch, narrow kerf, .050 gauge chain
D = series 72V 'Vanguard', 3/8 pitch, .050 gauge chain

'S56' is type S chain (3/8 low profile, .050 gauge) in a loop with 56 drive links. 'S60' is just a longer loop.

Since these are consumer oriented packaging, they are typically low kickback style chain, and usually, but not always, semi-chisel chain, as that makes the most sense for that user. If you want other styles of chain, you have to step away from the letter coded packages.

You can also order chain through saw shops or catalogs using the Oregon number, or the equivalent STIHL, Carlton, or other brand identifier. Or in your case, simply state that you want 3/8 pitch, .050 gauge chain and the type of cutter (semi-chisel, full chisel, skip tooth, etc.).

Back to your D70 / D72 question.

1. It depends. Sometimes when you buy a replacement bar from a third party it uses a different number of drive links than the bar that the manufacturer supplied. My Echo saw came with a 57DL chain, instead of the more commonly available 56DL used by lots of other saws. Can't get a 56DL loop to fit on the Echo bar to save my life. The replacement bars sold by Oregon are 56DL bars. If I buy an OEM Echo bar - 57DL. I assume that this is to get me to go back to the Echo dealer?

2. It's possible that someone looked at the number stamped in the drive links of your chain and got confused. 'D' type chain is also known as 72 series 'Vanguard' chain and has that number stamped into the drive links for identification.

Bottom line - you need the correct number of drive links for the bar you are going to use, not necessarily the bar that the manufacturer supplied with the saw.

Philbert
 
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