Stihl 028 WB bar and chain size

[gggGary]

Saw has a 325 sprocket and 20" 3/8 050 bar and chain.
Back story; bought the saw used 5 + years ago from an old guy no longer cutting.
I heat with wood, and help out neighbors with clean up, roughly 5 10 cords a year.
A good cleaning and sharpening and put it to work. This didn't have a chain brake, got the parts from a used saw guy nearby and it now has a working chain brake. Use it occasionally, on smaller trees, an 044 my main saw.

While cleaning up storm damage I was sharpening a chain when I noticed it would not rotate smoothly on the clutch sprocket.
Opened it up, saw some sprocket wear went to get a new sprocket from the local dealer, this is where I'm all confused.
Sprocket is marked 325, BUT it has a 20" 3/8" 50 bar and chain (yellow link) Mists of time, I no longer remember if this was on the saw, or parts I put on it.
Dealer and I did some parts looking and didn't find a 3/8 sprocket for an 028. Kinda like running the 20" bar have an 025 16" for lighter sawing. Long as I'm not too aggressive the saw seemed happy enough with that combo.
Did I wear out the 325 sprocket "to quickly" with the 3/8" chain?

Full disclosure; After cutting up a neighbors busted off maple branch, I had lost the oil cap early on and run the chain dry didn't notice the cap was gone til I was back in the shed then the bulb came on, the chain had been binding from heat when I was finishing up, duh. Found the cap and puddle of oil near where I had started sawing up the limb. Refilled the oil, sharpened, ran a couple tanks through on another big maple limb, then it started cutting curves buried nearly full bar length in a big branch. Finished wth the 044 then found the mismatch on this saw. Should I bite the bullet and get a 325 bar and chain to run on this saw? .050 or .063? my preference would be 20" again, I'm tall reduces bending over. OR Is running the 3/8 stuff that I have for the 044 anyways "kind of" acceptable on that 325 sprocket? Is there a 3/8" sprocket that fits the 028? Dealer ordered in a new 325 sprocket, I bought it today.
Thanks for reading this far and any advice, help you can give.
old and new;

 

[ZeroJunk]

No, running 3/8 on a .325 sprocket will ruin the chain pretty quick. It burrs up and starts sticking in the bar.

Get a .325 063 bar and matching chain. If you were close by I would give you one .

 

[SteveSr]

Saw has a 325 sprocket and 20" 3/8 050 bar and chain.

Bar nose (3/8" 0.375") and drive sprocket 0.325", and chain ALL have to match. You now need a new bar, chain and drive sprocket. 0.325 is recommended especially with a 20" bar on an 028. Actually I would replace it with a 16 or 18" 0.325 setup since you need a new bar anyway.

 

[gggGary]

Is a 3/8 bar tip sprocket less fussy than the clutch sprocket running with .325 chain?
ie can I run a 325 50 chain on the 3/8 bar?
Really don't know much about the differences, advantages of the different widths 50 vs 63
For what ever reason the 044 and IIRC previous 066's all had 3/8 50 set ups.

 

[Mad Professor]

Get a 3/8 rim clutch drum then you can switch chains/bars from 3/8 to 0.325 just swapping the rims. Also rims are cheaper than whole drums. Get the 3/8 rim clutch drum and a new chain. Chain was not happy with wrong drive sprocket.....

The sweet spot on a 026/028 is a 16" 0.063 0.325 setup. You'd need the 0.325 rim bar and chain.

Is a 3/8 bar tip sprocket less fussy than the clutch sprocket running with .325 chain?
ie can I run a 325 50 chain on the 3/8 bar?
Really don't know much about the differences, advantages of the different widths 50 vs 63
For what ever reason the 044 and IIRC previous 066's all had 3/8 50 set ups.

No the drive sprocket and bar sprocket tip has to match the pitch of the chain. Even 3/8 and 3/8 lo pro/picco are a mismatch.

 

[SteveSr]

Is a 3/8 bar tip sprocket less fussy than the clutch sprocket running with .325 chain?

No! NO ! NO! You CANNOT mismatch bar tip, drive sprocket AND drive chain pitch!

Your current setup is GARBAGE due to the pitch mismatch. Throw it ALL (bar, chain, and drive sprocket) away and start over!

Really don't know much about the differences, advantages of the different widths 50 vs 63

Get whatever is the most common. For Stihl this is likely 0.325" .063" gauge.

For what ever reason the 044 and IIRC previous 066's all had 3/8 50 set ups.

044 and 066 are bigger engine saws. 3/8" chain cuts a wider kerf than 0.325" so requires more horsepower and is a poor match for a lower powered 028.

 

[ZeroJunk]

I have a new 20 inch Stihl 3/8 bar. Guy came in and said he needed a 3/8 bar and chain, came back an hour later with the chain locked up. .325 sprocket. He bought the correct bar and chain and left the 3/8 bar and chain. Bar was actually OK, and I could have fixed the chain if I had wanted to bad enough. Just more trouble than it was worth as many chains as I have hanging around.

 

[gggGary]

Thanks for the help and suggestions. Not being (too) contrary, just admitting what's gone on. the chain runs smooth in the bar no noticeable, odd wear on the drivers. If it was notchy on the drive sprocket, hadn't noticed it much until now. I think this set up has a couple years on it, 10? trees to firewood on it?
Guess I'm the criminal, putting the wrong bar/chain on it, you made me look, and back in 2018 looks like it had a different bar and chain on it, prolly what was on it when I bought it.

This 3/8 set will get relegated to the "emergency or dirt use" shed nail.


But other than a dull tooth don't see anything horrible?

 

[gggGary]

Haven't looked at the cylinder piston on this saw, now I remember why, one muffler screw is stuck, hex is pretty much stripped, this uses 4mm head screws. Any good ideas before I MIG a big blob on it to grab and remove?

 

[wildwes]

Personally I run 3/8 on my 028/026/260 saws. I was running .325 on some of them, and I still do, but I am gradually changing them over, and once I wear out the rest of my .325 chains/bars I will switch them over to 3/8.
A rim sprocket is much nicer on those saws, here is one like I am running on my 028:

https://www.amickssuperstore.com/Oregon_30384X_Rim_Sprocket_Assy_p/oregon 30384x.htm
As others have said, you can run either pitch with this by swapping the rim. I am currently running a 18" 3/8 bar on my 028 and it runs just fine with it in all of the hardwood I have cut. My 260/026 saws have either 16" or 18" 3/8 bars.

 

[Mad Professor]

Haven't looked at the cylinder piston on this saw, now I remember why, one muffler screw is stuck, hex is pretty much stripped, this uses 4mm head screws. Any good ideas before I MIG a big blob on it to grab and remove?

That's a T-27 torx screw not a hex.

 

[Mad Professor]

Haven't looked at the cylinder piston on this saw, now I remember why, one muffler screw is stuck, hex is pretty much stripped, this uses 4mm head screws. Any good ideas before I MIG a big blob on it to grab and remove?

You might be able to get in there with a dremel and cut a slot, then use a flathead screwdriver

 

[wildwes]

Haven't looked at the cylinder piston on this saw, now I remember why, one muffler screw is stuck, hex is pretty much stripped, this uses 4mm head screws. Any good ideas before I MIG a big blob on it to grab and remove?

Like Mad Professor said, it is a T-27. A good, new bit in an impact driver will likely bite well enough to get it out.
Most all Stihl stuff I have ever worked on is T-27, except some of the older saws from the 031/041 era

 

[SteveSr]

As others have said, you can run either pitch with this by swapping the rim. I am currently running a 18" 3/8 bar on my 028 and it runs just fine with it in all of the hardwood I have cut. My 260/026 saws have either 16" or 18" 3/8 bars.

I just checked and there was a rim option for the 028. I don't know if it is still available. the OP will need a new clutch drum anyway and might as well get a rim setup if it is still available.

 

[gggGary]

This saw is early, didn't have a chain brake, all the muffler screws on it now anyways, 4mm hex not T27 (or T25) I looked real good with a magnifying glass, cuz yeah I was EXPECTING T27
I like that Oregon rim sprocket clutch idea.
But I did just get a brand new .325 sprocket clutch from Stihl yesterday.

 

[Mad Professor]

Like Mad Professor said, it is a T-27. A good, new bit in an impact driver will likely bite well enough to get it out.
Most all Stihl stuff I have ever worked on is T-27, except some of the older saws from the 031/041 era

I worked a few summers wrenching at a Honda/Suzuki dealership. One of the tools that was essential for splitting cycle cases, without stripping the phillips screw heads, was a hand impact driver. They work better than an air impact as the striking force of the hammer blow keeps the bit in the screws head, and that striking force also loosens the screws threads.

Snap-on makes one of the best, still have mine. The guy in the Snap-on truck has given me a few free new replacement bits over the years......had to get some torx ones when I started working on saws.

I just checked and there was a rim option for the 028. I don't know if it is still available. the OP will need a new clutch drum anyway and might as well get a rim setup if it is still available.

I've got a small spline drum/rim on my 028S. Not sure if Stihl still has them, Oregon does. Note that the small splines are different on Stihl drums than standard small splines (Oregon).

 

[SteveSr]

This 3/8 set will get relegated to the "emergency or dirt use" shed nail.

If you are going to run 3/8" you will need to have a drive sprocket that is also 3/8"

But other than a dull tooth don't see anything horrible?

Excessive wear has occurred due to chain / nose sprocket mismatch. It may be further down in the sprocket and hard to see.

With chains this will usually "peen" the drive link tangs and put burrs on them. If not too bad you may be able to fix them with a flat file and some time. Eventually they will start sticking in the bar groove. A good way to tell right away is to try to fit the chain in a NEW bar and see if it grabs or moves freely. You can also measure the width of the drive link tangs which should be a few thousandths less than the specified gauge.

 

[wildwes]

I just checked and there was a rim option for the 028. I don't know if it is still available. the OP will need a new clutch drum anyway and might as well get a rim setup if it is still available.

I'm not sure if the Stihl setup is, I have one on a saw that I bought used, they are pretty easy to find on ebay. The oregon rim setup is still available new, part number 30384X
The oregon setup uses the small spline rims, I am not sure if the Stihl drum uses the small spline or the mini spline like what is found on the 026. The small spline is often easier to find rims for, since it is used on many brands.
The oregon setup will also work with the stock oiler and plastic oiler gear, but it does take its own plastic drive gear that is not interchangeable with the OEM gear. It does, however, come with a new gear.

 

[SteveSr]

But I did just get a brand new .325 sprocket clutch from Stihl yesterday.

Before you run this you might want to consider upgrading to the rim drive setup.

The Stihl 0.325" rim kit is part number 1118-007-1004 which includes the drum.

 

[wildwes]

I like that Oregon rim sprocket clutch idea.

I have been happy with mine, I have oregon drums on several saws and they work just as well as OEM for me.