Why is it hard to find 4Way Wedges?

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Cambium

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Got a 27Ton Troy Bilt. Need a 4way badly.
Northern had the 8inch and 12inch. The 8inch says its only for 32ton and higher. The 12" might split to big of pieces.

Any ideas where I can find one for my 27ton? I'll post a close up later of what current wedge looks like.
 
Got a 27Ton Troy Bilt. Need a 4way badly.
Northern had the 8inch and 12inch. The 8inch says its only for 32ton and higher. The 12" might split to big of pieces.

Any ideas where I can find one for my 27ton? I'll post a close up later of what current wedge looks like.


The wedges from NT will not fit the profile of your wedge.I know, I have the same splitter and bought one of those wedges from NT.But,if you have a welding machine and a little know how, you can make it work.Let me know if you need any help,Im sure Ive got a picture of the one that I modified to fit.
 
wedge

Got a 27Ton Troy Bilt. Need a 4way badly.
Northern had the 8inch and 12inch. The 8inch says its only for 32ton and higher. The 12" might split to big of pieces.

Any ideas where I can find one for my 27ton? I'll post a close up later of what current wedge looks like.



The four way wedge I bought from them nearly cost me a finger years ago as they are built for their splitters alone.

Having a multi wedge is fine but the problem is the structural strength of the beam and the original wedge as it may not tolerate the stress.


The simple answer would be to take slices out of the block of wood
and split them again.

I know thats not what you want to hear but its a safer way to do it and still work quickly where you could stack and dry the slabs and then split them again later if your loading door is small.


All you may need is a little fluid film on the wedge to aid in splitting the rounds.


leon:chainsaw::givebeer:
 
The wedges from NT will not fit the profile of your wedge.I know, I have the same splitter and bought one of those wedges from NT.But,if you have a welding machine and a little know how, you can make it work.Let me know if you need any help,Im sure Ive got a picture of the one that I modified to fit.

Yeah, I guess I'll take the picture..One would think that a single wedge would be more work for splitter since it's trying to push and split half the log as opposed to a 4way where the 4 different cuts will help alliveate the pressure.

but I guess not huh.

Worse comes to worse if there's too much stress on the machine I'll just put the single one back and maybe get a second splitter and hire help? :)
 
Truthfully those hor/vert splitters with the wedge on the ram are not designed for 4 way wedges....
 
I have the Northern 8" 4 way wedge. It fits my splitter wedge, 1" wide, 8" tall, 6" deep. I have done about 5 cords of hardwood and 5 cords of pine with it. I have a 20 ton splitter. You definately have to sharpen the blades to aid in cutting if doesn't split. You also have to watch for crotches and big knots, it puts a lot of stress on the beam and stalls out. Overall I love the thing. With clean wood it really speeds up the process.
 
Yeah, I guess I'll take the picture..One would think that a single wedge would be more work for splitter since it's trying to push and split half the log as opposed to a 4way where the 4 different cuts will help alliveate the pressure.

but I guess not huh.

Worse comes to worse if there's too much stress on the machine I'll just put the single one back and maybe get a second splitter and hire help? :)

A 4 way is more stress on the machine. It would be pretty easy to build a 4 way if you couldnt find one to buy. To take some stress off, the wedges need to be off set a little. Like, make it were the main wedge is done started in the wood about 2 inches or so before the other wedge ever starts in the wood.
 
Truthfully those hor/vert splitters with the wedge on the ram are not designed for 4 way wedges....

Designed or not, its hard to argue with over 200 cords of wood and the thing is still going strong.Several companies including Northern Tools that market a slip on wedge as well as bolt on wings for splitters that have the wedge on the ram,and there doesnt appear to be any problem.

I bought mine from NT, and modified it to fit the profile of my wedge. Cut the strap that goes around the wedge and chunk it in the scrap bin.Get you a piece of 1/4 inch plate and make a strip long enough to go around your wedge and weld it in place of the old strap on one side only.
Grind the weld out of the wedge that holds the vertical blades together,but leave enough metal to hold the thing together.now drop it in front of your old wedge and crank up the motor.

With a piece of wood laying crossways over the beam, slowly move the wedge forward.As it bites into the wood, it will spread the wings apart until it matches the shape of your old wedge.After it is seated fully,leave the ram forward and shut off the motor.

With a torch, heat up the strap and beat it around the wedge until the end meets the other side.Weld it in place.Allow the piece to cool a bit while you get yourself something cold to drink or come here and BS for awhile.

Crank up the motor, retract the wedge and remove the slip on wedge.Drop it on your work bench and reweld the welding that you ground out of the original vertical piece.You should now have a slip on wedge that fits the profile of your original wedge and is plenty strong if you welded it up good.I added a gussett across the top for added strength but suite yourself on that one.

 
Designed or not, its hard to argue with over 200 cords of wood and the thing is still going strong.Several companies including Northern Tools that market a slip on wedge as well as bolt on wings for splitters that have the wedge on the ram,and there doesnt appear to be any problem.

I bought mine from NT, and modified it to fit the profile of my wedge. Cut the strap that goes around the wedge and chunk it in the scrap bin.Get you a piece of 1/4 inch plate and make a strip long enough to go around your wedge and weld it in place of the old strap on one side only.
Grind the weld out of the wedge that holds the vertical blades together,but leave enough metal to hold the thing together.now drop it in front of your old wedge and crank up the motor.

With a piece of wood laying crossways over the beam, slowly move the wedge forward.As it bites into the wood, it will spread the wings apart until it matches the shape of your old wedge.After it is seated fully,leave the ram forward and shut off the motor.

With a torch, heat up the strap and beat it around the wedge until the end meets the other side.Weld it in place.Allow the piece to cool a bit while you get yourself something cold to drink or come here and BS for awhile.

Crank up the motor, retract the wedge and remove the slip on wedge.Drop it on your work bench and reweld the welding that you ground out of the original vertical piece.You should now have a slip on wedge that fits the profile of your original wedge and is plenty strong if you welded it up good.I added a gussett across the top for added strength but suite yourself on that one.




Good stuff there Avalancher! Thanks for sharing that!! I am looking for a new splitter and won't be so reluctant to look at the piston mounted wedges.
 
Excellent!thanks for this!! I'm about to place the order with him but wondering if he's just selling the "stanbdard" slip on just at a rediculas higher price.. Gotta call northern tools later get some info from them


Woa,back the apple cart up. If you are going to order from him,make sure you email him and let him know that you need a wedge for a TB splitter with a cast iron wedge. The one pictured for $200 will not work with your splitter.This guy is the reason that I modded my own, when I went looking for a 4way to fit I found this guy,emailed him my requirements, and he wanted $275 to build me one.I figured that $90 with NT,some mods of my own, and I would save some serious coin.
 

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