Boxelder..how do I kill the damn thing?

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WolverineMarine

WolverineMarine

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I have a boxelder in a very tight spot I have tried to get rid of for sometime that has among other things, a metal property marker it has grown around, and a telephone pole that make it impossible to completley cut out and grind the stump out. Is there something that is available at the hardware store, or home center that I can use? I looked into getting some Roundup to possible dispatch this :censored: thing but I was under the impression after reading the label it might not do the job..
Thanx for the help..this place is the most incredible source of information I have ever come across!
 
Urbicide

Urbicide

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You will definitely need a good herbicide to squirt on a freshly cut stump. Go to a country feed store. They generally carry a much better variety than your urban stores, and they will be available in stronger concentrations. Glyphosphate (RoundUp) just seems to irritate box elder, even when used at concentrations close to full strength. I try to rip box elder out of the ground with my tractor when ever possible.
 
treeseer

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I have a boxelder in a very tight spot I have tried to get rid of for sometime that has among other things, a metal property marker it has grown around, and a telephone pole that make it impossible to completley cut out
A professional arborist should know how to make plunge cuts to get rid of the stump, then fullstrength glyphosphate on the inner bark, then smother with black plastic and rocks.
 
TDunk

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I heard somewhere that if you drill a bunch of 1/2" holes in the stump and put salt peter in it, it will take care on the stump. But it might be a bunch of B.S. too.
 
hickslawns

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roundup will only work on grassy vegetation. You will need a herbicide for woody vegetation. Look for a product called "Crossbow". This I have used to kill entire trees over 15-20' tall growing up in fence rows. 3x the price of Roundup, but effective. Good luck. This is also not a restricted use chemical, so you should be able to find at a Tractor Supply or similar store.
 
WolverineMarine

WolverineMarine

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how does the telephone pole stop you from grinding the stump? you should be able to grind 95% of it at least, and id wager i could manage to grind all of it without hitting the pole...

As I mentioned before..there are other factors, the property marker being made of a solid 3/4" steel rod that the tree had grown around..and a hollow steel fence post all being within 3 inches of each other. I grind stumps as a side business..and unless a customer was willing to pay for every tooth I busted on it, I would not take the job..let alone trash em myself on my own property. I just wanna kill this damn thing so I can get rid of it once and for all..I have attempted to cut this thing out for like the last 3 years and it always comes back...
 
pdqdl

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A professional arborist should know how to make plunge cuts to get rid of the stump, then fullstrength glyphosphate on the inner bark, then smother with black plastic and rocks.

Yep. That would do it, and safest to nearby plants. Would work even without the black plastic.


Better: Any herbicide with picloram. tordon, pathway, garlon, etc. Spray on the surviving foliage NOW, wait till spring to work on the stump.

Probably just as good: any Any herbicide with Triclopyr.
 
pdqdl

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roundup will only work on grassy vegetation. [rest of quote deleted}

Nonsense. Read the label.

Roundup [Glysophate] is labeled for cut stump treatment.

Crossbow is just a fancy re-mix of 2 types of dandelion killer. Sure, it will get the job done, but it is just 2,4,D and triclopyr, (mentioned in my last post). It is probably only available in larger quantities (2.5 gal jugs), and will certainly cost more than a $40 gallon of Tordon RTU.

Cut stump treatments with Crossbow call for mixing with Diesel, just another irritation to deal with. Not needed with anything containing picloram.



By the way, if you can find it, a 20 lb. bag of Spike granular would do the job nicely, assuming nothing else desirable is nearby. One handful will probably keep all brush out of that spot for 5 years. A soil sterilant, it lingers and works best on trees.
 
ropensaddle

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Nonsense. Read the label.

Roundup [Glysophate] is labeled for cut stump treatment.

Crossbow is just a fancy re-mix of 2 types of dandelion killer. Sure, it will get the job done, but it is just 2,4,D and triclopyr, (mentioned in my last post). It is probably only available in larger quantities (2.5 gal jugs), and will certainly cost more than a $40 gallon of Tordon RTU.

Cut stump treatments with Crossbow call for mixing with Diesel, just another irritation to deal with. Not needed with anything containing picloram.



By the way, if you can find it, a 20 lb. bag of Spike granular would do the job nicely, assuming nothing else desirable is nearby. One handful will probably keep all brush out of that spot for 5 years. A soil sterilant, it lingers and works best on trees.

I have used it in places but you have to be careful never put more out than
it calls for and we are talking 1/4 teaspoons it takes longer to work but kills
the ground five years nothing grows. Spike is good in areas
that you don't intend to plant, I remember when it was sold in sugar cube form!
 
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pdqdl

pdqdl

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Rope: I used some Spike last year in an experiment on an area that had been treated for many years with soil sterilant. My usual soil sterilants were not doing the job. The customer was mostly after the grassy and annual broadleaf weeds, and I was having the most trouble with the grasses.

The Spike never even made those weeds nervous, and they came back with a vengeance this year, too. I was putting it down considerably stronger than the labeled rate.

It did do a nice job of killing the one tree I threw it on, but all the horseweeds are surrounding that location this year. Of course, my results are from an area where the weeds are strongly conditioned to resist herbicides.
 
ropensaddle

ropensaddle

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Rope: I used some Spike last year in an experiment on an area that had been treated for many years with soil sterilant. My usual soil sterilants were not doing the job. The customer was mostly after the grassy and annual broadleaf weeds, and I was having the most trouble with the grasses.

The Spike never even made those weeds nervous, and they came back with a vengeance this year, too. I was putting it down considerably stronger than the labeled rate.

It did do a nice job of killing the one tree I threw it on, but all the horseweeds are surrounding that location this year. Of course, my results are from an area where the weeds are strongly conditioned to resist herbicides.
I know it takes time to get into the soil and do it's magic. I am uncertain
how long but it is not immediate acting and will drift with gravity and kill
the whole yard if not careful with dose, some weeds are relentless!
 

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