Tuning a MS-361..?

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Dennis_Peacock

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My MS-361 needs a bit of tuning. The guy at the dealer said that he tuned it when I bought it new to run a bit on the rich side and to leave it there until well broken in. Well, I'm not a pro that runs a saw every single day. The saw has probably 30 tanks of fuel through it now and I can for sure tell now that it is running a bit "rich" while "in the cut" on larger sized timber (20"+). My saw is running with a 20" bar on it.

How does one "tach" a chainsaw?
How does one "tach" it for good performance but not run it lean and harm the saw?

Inquiring minds wanna know. :greenchainsaw:
 
The dealer did not need to set it rich for a so called "break in" period.

You need a "tach" to be able to "tach" a saw... You can get tachometers from a site sponsor here (Bailey's), or on ebay, or from your Stihl dealer... Not sure what the optimum RPM setting is for the 361...

...hang on a bit and someone will be along to tell you.

Gary
 
The dealer did not need to set it rich for a so called "break in" period.

You need a "tach" to be able to "tach" a saw... You can get tachometers from a site sponsor here (Bailey's), or on ebay, or from your Stihl dealer... Not sure what the optimum RPM setting is for the 361...

...hang on a bit and someone will be along to tell you.

Gary
Agree. Mine was not set rich when I bought it in January. Runs fine. I think the owner's manual says the saw is rated at 14,000 RPM, and I have a feeling this saw is not coming close to that if the dealer set it rich.
 
Agree. Mine was not set rich when I bought it in January. Runs fine. I think the owner's manual says the saw is rated at 14,000 RPM, and I have a feeling this saw is not coming close to that if the dealer set it rich.

You are correct there Wood Doctor. I have to watch it during a cut on a large diameter log so I can keep the RPMs up. I can tell you for sure that if it idles for very long.....more than about 20-30 seconds, it's "boggy" when I pick up the saw and pull the throttle. After pumping the throttle a couple of times the RPMs come up and it starts running fine again. I'm guessing that it's getting a bit too much "mix" while sitting idle and needs to burn/flush that out before it can rev back up to normal RPM range.

I've read somewhere where it should be "tached" at about 12,500 RPMs. I've never seen a tach for a chainsaw....but then again....there's a lot of stuff I ain't never seen. :)
 
12,500 is NOT right for the 361. Factory spec is 14,000. Mine ran stronger at 13,500. A stock 361 is dificult to set by ear. Does your dealer have a tach to set it with? He should do it for free. It bogs when you give it throttle because the L needle is not set correctly either.
 
id say this was just about rite. give ot take per stilh spec +- 500.



:greenchainsaw:



attachment.php





;)

Thats not very nice! What if someone took that as genuine, How long would their saw last.
Not that you would give a damn anyway!
 
12,500 is NOT right for the 361. Factory spec is 14,000. Mine ran stronger at 13,500. A stock 361 is dificult to set by ear. Does your dealer have a tach to set it with? He should do it for free. It bogs when you give it throttle because the L needle is not set correctly either.

Yes... :cheers:

13,300, here at altitude (a frog-hair from 13,500)

It is hard to set a 361 by ear, Andy mentioned this before I got mine and was valuable information.

The 361 will 'burble' a little out of the wood, or while revving up on the way into wood, and clear up in the wood, is real near perfect.

Tach' are nice, a very quick method, but not needed.

Any saw tuned for fastest timed cut is as good as it gets!
 
trying to destroy the mans beloved stilh from across the internet. lies by omission, where do you come up with this stuff?

16K rpms would kill a stock 361, he would be buying a p&c real soon.

Modded is different and 16K is a little too slow.......:hmm3grin2orange:

Good thing you kept Mow's statement in your sig, you sure do live up to it.
 
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My MS-361 needs a bit of tuning. The guy at the dealer said that he tuned it when I bought it new to run a bit on the rich side and to leave it there until well broken in. Well, I'm not a pro that runs a saw every single day. The saw has probably 30 tanks of fuel through it now and I can for sure tell now that it is running a bit "rich" while "in the cut" on larger sized timber (20"+). My saw is running with a 20" bar on it.

How does one "tach" a chainsaw?
How does one "tach" it for good performance but not run it lean and harm the saw?

Inquiring minds wanna know. :greenchainsaw:


OK, between cuts, screw in the carbs' hi screw bit by bit at idle till you like how it's running, or else twist the hi screw out till the motor's stumbling, then twist the hi screw back in till it's really starting to scream. There's the range, you know where half way is, choose your own running temperature lean to rich, for long tedious cuts don't go too lean
 
seems as though you are making a multitude of assumptions. one being my saws lack performance, another, my ignorance concerning the 361.


/me thinks 2K memory has failed him.

What? No videos?

:dizzy: :dizzy: :dizzy:

Just admit the 361 is "THE" saw and we can all go home.:eek:

The best 60cc class out that is.
 
Yahooo my fave MS 361 read this (carb adj)

Proper ms361 carburetor adjustment

I need to add,, when you screw down adjusting screws to there seat treat this most fragile as you DO NOT want to score the seat if you do it will be all over. Be gentle..
 
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