If the drivers are blueing, how tight are you tensioning the chain?
best bar oil
- Thread starter Stihl Alive
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coldbeerbigsaws
ArboristSite Lurker
stp
I add about an ounce of stp to a tank of bar oil in the summer when it is hot makes the oil pretty sticky never had any problems but i also use stihl or tsc bar oil they seem to be about the same to me except the price of course.
I add about an ounce of stp to a tank of bar oil in the summer when it is hot makes the oil pretty sticky never had any problems but i also use stihl or tsc bar oil they seem to be about the same to me except the price of course.
Slamm
Addicted to ArboristSite
LOL, we had a "Bar Nut Torquing" thread, possibly we need a "Tension Screw Torquing" thread in which others will suggest using 1/2" breaker bars and such, LOL.
Stop tightening the tension screw when either the "drivers are turning blue" or your face or your nuts, which ever comes first. Then back off 1/4 turn.
Sam
Stihl Alive
ArboristSite Operative
Nah, that sounds about right. Normal chain function will get you deposits on the chain from the wood or the sap, but blueing sounds odd. Does the bar get hot enough that you can't touch it?
LOL. I wouldn't have mentioned it if I hadn't seen it. Fellow asked me if the saw was supposed to smoke that much...it wasn't coming from the engine.
stihl only
ArboristSite Operative
Just want to remind everyone that what your daddy did years ago on a 40 year old saw, just doesn't work today! The old saws would throw so much oil, you could put anything in there and the bar and chain would be fine because of the volume of oil used.
With EPA regulating the oiler output these days, it becomes more important to use oil made for bars and chains. Even cheap b&c oil will have tack additives, but the better b&c oil will have more.
With EPA regulating the oiler output these days, it becomes more important to use oil made for bars and chains. Even cheap b&c oil will have tack additives, but the better b&c oil will have more.
Austin1
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't even use bar oil anymore, used to use any brand winter oil before, now I just run pure Canola oil. I will take slippery oil over sticky oil any day now. The Canola does get flung off more easily but leaves a very slippery feeling on the bar and chain even after long cuts in sappy green pine. Even after long cut's the bar is cooler than when I ran bar oil. Best part I am buying a product made right in my back yard.
I guess it could get rancid if left for a long time but I have always flushed out my oil tank with diesel even when using bar oil for long term storage.
I guess it could get rancid if left for a long time but I have always flushed out my oil tank with diesel even when using bar oil for long term storage.
GASoline71
Mr. Nice Guy
LMAO... sure!
Anyways... any bar oil on the planet is better than motor oil... whether it's waste oil or fresh motor oil... neither one does your saw any good...
Gary
Slamm
Addicted to ArboristSite
Gary, you didn't mention cooking oil in your post. The motor oil vs. bar oil discussion isn't as easy as it once was.LMAO... sure!
Anyways... any bar oil on the planet is better than motor oil... whether it's waste oil or fresh motor oil... neither one does your saw any good...
Gary
Motor oil = Democrats
Bar oil = Republicans
Canola Oil = Thirdy Party
We await your response, LOL.
Sam
Zackman1801
ArboristSite Guru
carvers use canola oil usually, cant have black oil spattering all over your icy creation.
speaking of bar nuts, i had a saw that i worked on that had the bar nuts so tight that when we tried to get them off we actually bent a Scrench along the straight screwdriver part about 20*. :jawdrop:
speaking of bar nuts, i had a saw that i worked on that had the bar nuts so tight that when we tried to get them off we actually bent a Scrench along the straight screwdriver part about 20*. :jawdrop:
I should have also said that I run Stihl Bio Plus. After Thanksgiving I will top off the container with filter canola oil from frying a turkey. It adds a nice aroma when I'm out in the woods.
GASoline71
Mr. Nice Guy
Well Sam... In my very biased yet humble opinion... cooking oil has no business being in a saw...
Gary
Poley4
ArboristSite Guru
Well Sam... In my very biased yet humble opinion... cooking oil has no business being in a saw...
Gary
:agree2:
When I get to point where I'm worried about a little bar oil leaking out and screwing up the environment, then will probably be hugging the tree and not cutting it down. If that happens, somebody please shoot me!
bigjake
ArboristSite Operative
My 441 don't get blue or melt wood but it does seem the bar gets hotter than it should. i noticed from the factory the oiler was turned about middle .Is there
a way to modify the bar oiler to get more oil .The temp here has been about
45 f and the sthil oil seems so thick .It seems the 250 and 25 get more oil
than the 441 .
a way to modify the bar oiler to get more oil .The temp here has been about
45 f and the sthil oil seems so thick .It seems the 250 and 25 get more oil
than the 441 .
I normally use standard stihl chain oil.
Ive used the Bio plus when doing work on nature reserves and the like were they insist on it. It does lubricate nicely and you can marginally turn the oil pump down however the cost is prohibitive for full time use.
Ive used the Bio plus when doing work on nature reserves and the like were they insist on it. It does lubricate nicely and you can marginally turn the oil pump down however the cost is prohibitive for full time use.
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JONSEREDFAN6069
Wheeler McDealer
is it the oil, or is the chain too tight? i made that mistake before.
in use.
jonsered 670 champ
jonsered 630
husky 266 xp
homelite va200
in use.
jonsered 670 champ
jonsered 630
husky 266 xp
homelite va200
Magellan
ArboristSite Member
So... what happens when I run the more slippery/runny vegetable based oil for cutting cedar and plain old Poulan bar oil in everything else?
Austin1
Addicted to ArboristSite
I started to use Canola based on what a machinist told me that it has great steel on steel lubricating qualities.
I was very skeptical at first but it has been working great for me.But the price has gone way up last year 4 litres would cost about $4.00 this year $7.00 but I only go through about 10-12 litres a year so the price is negligible.
Plus I still have reg bar oil I use from time to time have to find a way to get rid of it.lol
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Well Sam... In my very biased yet humble opinion... cooking oil has no business being in a saw...
Gary
Fine! You are not invited to Thanksgiving dinner then. Mmhhmmmm turkey boiled in bar oil.
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