anything u do to clean up a dirty chain?? "clean" not sharpen

[Philbert]

I know on my dirtbikes, I don't clean the chains. I wipe the lumps off and oil the chain again. Using a cleaner can remove the oil from the rollers, causing a chain to wear out prematurely.

I like to rebuild and work on bicycles - most people do a poor job of chain maintenance on those chains as well. They are technically roller chains, with donut shaped bearings around each rivet. A lot of people oil the side plates on their bike chains, but not the rollers, resulting in a lot of chain and sprocket wear.

One bike I got not too long ago had been used by a woman as a college student and kept for about 20 years - just kept adding oil and wiping off the 'big clumps' like noted above. The chain had developed a crust 2 to 3 mm thick that kept any oil from getting to the bearings.

Another time, at a local college, there was a kid in their bike shop that said all you need to do is wipe off the chain with a rag and hit it with spray lube occasionally. I convinced him to let me clean his chain with one of the specially made cleaning tools (cost $20 - $30; would not work on cutting chains but could serve as the basis for an enterprising AS reader . . .). Takes about 5 minutes. Suddenly, he could shift. He ran right out and bought one.

The chain is the most important part of the saw. Not maintaining it makes no sense to me.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

did not think this would get the debate it's getting

It's not a debate. Neither side is likely to convince the other.

It does allow the 'chain cleaners' to share ideas and approaches for cleaning chains, and the 'non-chain cleaners' to reinforce their rationale for not doing so.

To each their own.

Philbert

 

[diesel&coffee]

 

[056kid]

Give this a try... take the nastiest, dirtiest, "rustiest" chain ya got and throw it on your saw... Then go cut a few rounds in clean and green wood... then tell me what happens... but it needs to be sharp!

Trust me... clean chain.

Gary

There are always several chains that have snaked halfway into the battery tray or out of the cab on the skidders. These chains have been there for many days, years. they nolonger move at all. When #### happens and a chain is in need i have gone to these rusty relics and i have succeded in the task at hand. once you get em so they will stay on the bar just sharpen and cut and tighten them periodicly, they will settle down.







Chains that are dirty dont need solvent&brushes they need attention with a file and more oil

 

[dt6266]

......Besides, I love the smell of Kerosene, especially in the morning before my bacon and eggs.

Member: southern Utah Chain-Gang

you should try the gary goo on your pancakes

 

[diesel&coffee]

say 056 kid

I take it you have a 056?? Which one?? and exactly how many cc/hp on the 056AV??

 

[cord arrow]

I like dental floss...always carry a spool or two into the woodlot....

Back at the bench...I prefer a high quality dental pic. Followed by the Oral-B.

If I'm shopping...I take them to Diamond Cellar...they have an ultrasonic you would not believe...24 carats out the door.

 

[volks-man]

the lengths

this thread really has grown.

clean the chain or don't. what i don't understand is why some bother on a rusty relic with frozen links? chain is cheap.

buy a new one and go cut some wood.
forget gary! where the heck is thall?

 

[Messenger]

Huh ?

Wood's a pretty good solvent in terms of cleaning a chain or bar. I know on my dirtbikes, I don't clean the chains. I wipe the lumps off and oil the chain again. Using a cleaner can remove the oil from the rollers, causing a chain to wear out prematurely.

From my memory, most quality dirtbike chains have "O" Rings on each pin & roller. Different animal. Sealed to some degree.

Please remember guys, a chainsaw when running is doing EVERTHING in it's might and power to remove all of the oil & lube from the chain. From every
pore it has! Continue running your saw after running the oil tank dry.
Does the chain still appear lubed because of the oil in the rollers ? No.
In short order it will look painfully dry--no lube anywhere.
The gravitational forces at operating chain speed is horrendous.

Point is, removing any oil while cleaning has zero negative effect, if resoaked prior to using. This ain't tough.

The oil pump happily pumps along keeping things in balance, and working.

This is a total-loss system if there ever was one.
Cleaning hurts nothing -- and can help a great deal!

 

[Messenger]

Read the STIHL Manual !

Chains that are dirty dont need solvent&brushes they need attention with a file and more oil

Specifically looked at [2] Instuction/Owners Manuals today @ work >>>

MS200T -- everybody loves them, right ? [Saw Troll, we understand]
MS290 / 310 /390 -- very common regular saws...

on pages 42 & 48, respectively the Manuals address the topic of this forum!
STIHL , the MANUFACTUROR, itself, whom many love & some hate, states
clearly....

when/before doing "Saw Chain Maintenance" ...
#1 Item -- "Clean The Chain"
[top of the list]
when/before doing "Saw Chain Sharpening" ...
#1 Item -- "Clean The Chain"
[top of the list]

STIHL knows we are cutting ALL kinds of wood! Green, dirty, sweet-gum,
2X4's, @ the dump like D&C , et al.
And they still say what ?? Even if it's green wood?
Several good ways & tips stated for cleaning. Your choice.
Like NIKE says "Just Do It"

056 Kid, oiling & filing comes AFTER the #1 Item.
STIHL says so. They made the dern chain. Good enough.
If you like them enough to have the name "056 Kid" , why not do what they say?

 

[Cedarkerf]

Stihl manual also says dont use your bar tip, dont use yellow bar and chains, dont cut above your shoulders. Clean away I have yet to see a chain failure from lack of cleaning. If its that dirty the damage has been done while cutting both to bar and chains. Cleaning removes dirt from static chain that would be removed in a matter of second just runnin it with the oil turned up outside of the cut. Then your gonna put it right back in dirty wood to cut but it will be clean for a fraction of a second. Newer and occasional users need to learn that chains are consumables and unless your runnin long bars can be had relatively cheap. If your runnin big bars ya need to find a way to make money with your saw or realise its part of your hobby expense.
Clean and soak em

 

[volks-man]

Stihl manual also says dont use your bar tip, dont use yellow bar and chains, dont cut above your shoulders. Clean away I have yet to see a chain failure from lack of cleaning. If its that dirty the damage has been done while cutting both to bar and chains. Cleaning removes dirt from static chain that would be removed in a matter of second just runnin it with the oil turned up outside of the cut. Then your gonna put it right back in dirty wood to cut but it will be clean for a fraction of a second. Newer and occasional users need to learn that chains are consumables and unless your runnin long bars can be had relatively cheap. If your runnin big bars ya need to find a way to make money with your saw or realise its part of your hobby expense.Clean and soak em

:agree2:

 

[chowdozer]

Page 25 of the 460 manual also says, "Do not operate your saw with a missing, damaged or modified muffler." Since all 7 of my Stihl's have modified mufflers, I'll just ignore that.

 

[Messenger]

Apples & Oranges !

Page 25 of the 460 manual also says, "Do not operate your saw with a missing, damaged or modified muffler." Since all 7 of my Stihl's have modified mufflers, I'll just ignore that.

What would Perry Mason say ? "Irrelavent, Your Honor!"

PLENTY of what STIHL says in their Manuals is to "cover their rear" and "corporate correctness" [yellow chain / mufflers, etc.]. We live in a "lawsuit society" now. Painfully obvious.

This topic, completely, on the other hand, IS performance related !
Just like maintaining the Air-Filter.
Do you never clean your Air-filter "cause, it'll just get dirty again"...

My chains in fact DO stay cleaner longer than a few seconds. Much longer.
[not cutting as dirty of wood as D&C]
Cleaning is also inspection. And, inspection is preventive maintenance.

Some AS members have lightly said, "just buy another chain".
No problem--about $30. bucks a pop for the better STIHL stuff.
Also, there should be no argument against getting the most life out of one's chain.

Make sense at all chowdozer?

 

[GASoline71]

From my memory, most quality dirtbike chains have "O" Rings on each pin & roller. Different animal. Sealed to some degree.

Not really... "O" ring chains are for ridin' in sand and muddy conditions. They suck. Too much drag. Non "O" ring chains are more better for speed...

Oh yeah... don't overengineer the chain thingy... It's simple. So keep it that way. Chains do not need too be soaked, sprayed, pre-lubed, wire brushed, dipped in solvent, hung to dry, etc... They have been designed for the simplest of maintenance... filing to sharpen... period...

Good grief.

Gary

 

[Messenger]

?????

Cleaning removes dirt from static chain that would be removed in a matter of second just runnin it with the oil turned up outside of the cut. Newer and occasional users need to learn that chains are consumables and unless your runnin long bars can be had relatively cheap.
Clean and soak em

Are you a "newer and occasional user" ?

I've cleaned several of my chains in our "Safety Clean" varasol vat at work that had enough dirt on them, that caused the strainer to clog up, and begin filling up the upper basin. Is that enough dirt & junk?
[but, ususally cutting cleaner wood]

Running them out of the cut didn't come close to cleaning them off.

Our company makes lots of revenue from owners that poorly maintain their
saws & chains. All in all, guess I'm glad.....

 

[pgg]

Yes, after every 4 hours of use, remove the chain and carefully inspect all chain links for signs of dirt. It may be a good idea to have cleansers and brushes on hand - just in case. If the worst scenario does happen, meaning there is actual dirt on the chain, I find it best to lay the chain on a firm surface, try not to have the said surface angling up or down anymore than 3.5 thru to 6.5 degrees from horizontal. I find it best to get down on hands and knees then individually scrub each cutter and sideplate separately with a short toothbrush to get a good clean finish. I find 'medium-hard' rated toothbrushes don't damage the steel surfaces and you can get right into the nooks and crannies. Repeat the procedure at least 3 times for the best results. Re-sharpen the chain and you should be good to go again..

 

[GASoline71]

I love overengineers! Yay!!!

Gary

 

[Gologit]

Yes, after every 4 hours of use, remove the chain and carefully inspect all chain links for signs of dirt. It may be a good idea to have cleansers and brushes on hand - just in case. If the worst scenario does happen, meaning there is actual dirt on the chain, I find it best to lay the chain on a firm surface, try not to have the said surface angling up or down anymore than 3.5 thru to 6.5 degrees from horizontal. I find it best to get down on hands and knees then individually scrub each cutter and sideplate separately with a short toothbrush to get a good clean finish. I find 'medium-hard' rated toothbrushes don't damage the steel surfaces and you can get right into the nooks and crannies. Repeat the procedure at least 3 times for the best results. Re-sharpen the chain and you should be good to go again..

You forgot the part about examining each link under a microscope. And what's that procedure they use for testing aircraft components for metallurgic faults? Better do that too.

 

[fredmc]

geeesh

At $15-$30 a loop I sharpen them 3-4x's and toss em, who has the time when there are trees to cut? I agree with gary run em in green wood (with the bar oiler working of course) good enough!