Stihl Rollomatic ES Wide Vs Narrow tip and Weight

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Racerboy832

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I guess I ended up buying a wide tip Rollomatic ES bar. The dealer didn't know what the yellow and green labels ment. Does anyone know the weight difference between the wide roller and the green label one? I have alot of wood to cut in the next few weeks but no plunge cutting. Should I stick with the wide tip one?
 
I would have to assume that the yellow is the wide tip and the green the narrow. The color coding matches the Stihl chain color coding. Green means safety. The wider tip has a stronger kick back potential.
 
I guess I ended up buying a wide tip Rollomatic ES bar. The dealer didn't know what the yellow and green labels ment. Does anyone know the weight difference between the wide roller and the green label one? I have alot of wood to cut in the next few weeks but no plunge cutting. Should I stick with the wide tip one?

Snicker... dealer does not know what a yellow and green bar means? And he is a Stihl dealer? Mang... :dizzy:

Weight is not that much of a difference. Few ounces I would guess. I have all yellow Stihl bars so I cannot measure the difference between them and the greenies. I would keep it and use it. If you are not plunge or bore cutting, the chances of your having issues with the incresed kickback on a yellow bar are minimal. The solid ES bars are far better anyway. As far as I know, ES bars are all mostly yellow bars ('cept there are supposed to be some narrow tip greenie ES bars that I have never seen). Laminated E types are not as good.
 
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Snicker... dealer does not know what a yellow and green bar means? And he is a Stihl dealer? Mang... :dizzy:

Weight is not that much of a difference. Few ounces I would guess. I have all yellow Stihl bars so I cannot measure the difference between them and the greenies. I would keep it and use it. If you are not plunge or bore cutting, the chances of your having issues with the incresed kickback on a yellow bar are minimal. The solid ES bars are far better anyway. As far as I know, ES bars are all mostly yellow bars ('cept there are supposed to be some narrow tip greenie ES bars that I have never seen). Laminated E types are not as good.

Wider Rollomatic ES tip "IS" for plunge cutting and longer service life.
 
Wider Rollomatic ES tip "IS" for plunge cutting and longer service life.

I know that. But... if you are not going to do bore cutting, then you are not apt to have any problems from kickback from having a wide nose bar. Its kind of a Catch-22. And typical in these days of OSHA controlled technology. The guy has a wide nose bar, may as well keep it, as it will last longer.
 
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I know that. But... if you are not going to do bore cutting, then you are not apt to have any problems from kickback from having a wide nose bar. Its kind of a Catch-22. And typical in these days of OSHA controlled technology. The guy has a wide nose bar, may as well keep it, as it will last longer.



You right!!! I was just pointing out that sometimes the Lawyers/ Stealers have you thinking if you buy a "Yellow" labeled chain or bar your really going to get hurt.Hell I saw a guy get stabbed with a ballpoint pen. Just remember where your tip is at all times and that you can see it and you should be fine whether Green or Yellow. Didn't mean to insult .
 
thanks didn't know there was a difference... all mine are solid wide nose bars.
 
I guess I ended up buying a wide tip Rollomatic ES bar. The dealer didn't know what the yellow and green labels ment. Does anyone know the weight difference between the wide roller and the green label one? I have alot of wood to cut in the next few weeks but no plunge cutting. Should I stick with the wide tip one?

Racerboy:If your not happy with it I'd be more than happy to take it off your hands.I'll even pay shipping.
 
You right!!! I was just pointing out that sometimes the Lawyers/ Stealers have you thinking if you buy a "Yellow" labeled chain or bar your really going to get hurt.Hell I saw a guy get stabbed with a ballpoint pen. Just remember where your tip is at all times and that you can see it and you should be fine whether Green or Yellow. Didn't mean to insult .

No biggie... no insult taken. Its like drop starting saws. Oooooh, the horror! I drop start all my saws.
 
Snicker... dealer does not know what a yellow and green bar means? And he is a Stihl dealer? Mang... :dizzy:

Weight is not that much of a difference. Few ounces I would guess. I have all yellow Stihl bars so I cannot measure the difference between them and the greenies. I would keep it and use it. If you are not plunge or bore cutting, the chances of your having issues with the incresed kickback on a yellow bar are minimal. The solid ES bars are far better anyway. As far as I know, ES bars are all mostly yellow bars ('cept there are supposed to be some narrow tip greenie ES bars that I have never seen). Laminated E types are not as good.

The only "Green" ES bar is the 3003 000 4030 25" 3/8 .050. It has a 10 tooth roller nose and is very light for its length.

Seen here on my MS660:


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.
 
The only "Green" ES bar is the 3003 000 4030 25" 3/8 .050. It has a 10 tooth roller nose and is very light for its length.

Seen here on my MS660:


attachment.php





.

Looking at catalog so is 3002 000 9576 & 3002 000 9123 from what I see!
 
I guess I ended up buying a wide tip Rollomatic ES bar. The dealer didn't know what the yellow and green labels ment. Does anyone know the weight difference between the wide roller and the green label one? I have alot of wood to cut in the next few weeks but no plunge cutting. Should I stick with the wide tip one?

Read this.. http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=89850

Keep the bar. The 3003 mount wide nose bars all have the 96 at the begining of the last four digits ie: 9622 (20"), 9630 (24"), 9638 (28")

Wide nose bar sprockets have 13 teeth.
 
I guess I will keep the bar. I figured if the other "green" bar was alot lighter then I would swap them.
 
Snicker... dealer does not know what a yellow and green bar means? And he is a Stihl dealer? Mang... :dizzy:

I had my dealer tell me he couldn't get new limit caps because he couldn't find the number. He DID go into the "back" and looked through a couple of the service guys tool boxes to see if they had thrown a couple in there, so he wasn't just blowing me off. Same guy told me that ALL MS280s, even the old ones, were IEM. I told him my 4-year old saw wasn't -- that it had a "H" screw.
He wouldn't believe me. "They changed to IEM when they changed the designation to 'MS' instead of the 028."

Yeah...OK...if you say so...
 
Why would you need the limit caps? Don't you just pull them off and toss them. The little red ones?



NOPE! You remove them clip the tabs and replace them, so as the screws don't turn when saw is either idling or WOT.
 
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