Cutting black locust

[mmaarrkk]

I am cleaning up property purchased a couple years ago and have a lot of problems cutting up what I think is black locust. The wood is very heavy, doesn't seem to rot, and I can see sparks fly when I cut at dusk. Most of what I am cutting is under 12" and has been on the ground for a while. If I stick to the red oak and poplar my Shindaiwa 352s works good. Once I start cutting the locust it seems like just a couple cuts will dull the chain. I've purchased a couple extra loops that I get sharpened, but that is getting expensive and doesn't help me get more work done on weekends so I am trying hand filing. I also just purchased a 'bigger' saw (Echo CS530). I try to minimize the number of cuts I make by cutting the smaller trees into post lengths instead of for firewood.

I think I've finally been able to convince my wife that it is not just the operator or the size of my saw and that it is the wood. I only have weekends to work and have a lot of work left to do so any advice and tips that will help me more efficiently cut black locust would be much appreciated.

 

[TDunk]

Your probably right that is locust, it's heavy as all get out. People actually use that stuff for fence posts etc. The problem you might be having with your chains is if the tree has a lot of dirt in it (especially if it's been lying around for a while) that's what junking the chains. Maybe

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

If it has been on the ground for a while, then more crenelated bark of thee locust can hold more wind blown grit.

It is a harder wood too.

Take a hatchet and try chopping off the bark where you will be cutting. See if that helps.

 

[boostnut]

Locust is hell on chains although I have a simple idea for you. IF you're not planning to keep this wood (are you a woodburner?) than put an add on craigslist for free locust. Odds are pretty good that people will be willing to cut it for you if its free for them to use in their stove or owb.

 

[John D]

Im cutting a lot of locust lately,all blown down stuff,it is hard on chains,no way around it,it is rewarding to burn though.

 

[mmaarrkk]

Locust is hell on chains although I have a simple idea for you. IF you're not planning to keep this wood (are you a woodburner?) than put an add on craigslist for free locust. Odds are pretty good that people will be willing to cut it for you if its free for them to use in their stove or owb.

The locust is spread over 18 acres and I need to be able to cut it myself to open up trails. We don't have a wood stove in the cabin yet, but we do keep a nice fire burning outside at our campsite.

 

[mmaarrkk]

Im cutting a lot of locust lately,all blown down stuff,it is hard on chains,no way around it,it is rewarding to burn though.

Do any types of chain last longer? Do I need to invest in a grinder or bar mount filing guide?

Now that I have two saws I joked to my wife this weekend that she needs to learn how to hand file so she be always sharpening the saw I am not using.

 

[John D]

Im not the best person to answer that.Ive been using the OEM Husky chains I got with the saw,Im just a homeowner cutting for myself,and once in a while my brother.When i wear these out im going with Oregon non safety chain at the recommendation of several members here. I just bought a Northern tool grinder,i had been filing before that,I like to file to touch the chain up,but if its real dull,I grind it,im getting better at grinding them now.I had a few junk chains i practiced on.They cut much better than when I was paying to have them professionally sharpened,and no blue teeth now,as i take tiny slivers off,not hog grind it.

 

[dingeryote]

Do any types of chain last longer? Do I need to invest in a grinder or bar mount filing guide?

Now that I have two saws I joked to my wife this weekend that she needs to learn how to hand file so she be always sharpening the saw I am not using.

mmaarrkk,

Welcome to AS!!!
Locust is rough on chains. Wood that has been on the ground for a long while gets dirty, and dirt is rough on chains.
It's just the way it is.
My woodlot is in a sandy area and even the red oaks and Birch here, will dull most chains rather quickly.LOL!! Folks don't believe me that sand/ silica grow into the bark and wood of trees untill they cut around here.

Semi-Chisel Oregon or Husky (Husky chain is Oregon) chains hold up just a smidge better than the factory stuff, safety chain or not.

Best I have found, and by a good margin, is the Stihl RM/RMC chain that can be had at any Stihl dealer. It still goes dull faster than normal when cutting the rough stuff, but not as fast as with the others.
Just a touch up with each tank of fuel, instead of two or three times a tank.

Skip the grinders. Invest early on in a couple of good files, a good file guide, and a couple of GOOD spare chains.


It's faster to swap a chain 2-3 times, and then touch up the chains when done, and the file will become second nature after a while.
As a bonus, your chains will last longer with filing than with grinding.


Run a search on sharpening technique here and you will find a gazillion posts with some real solid info.

The stihl website has a sharpening video that is very good as well.

Everyone new to saws has gone through this evolution, it's part of the learning curve.

Best of luck teaching the Wife to file chains.
I tried to teach mine. That didn't end well at all!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[turnkey4099]

Congratulations on joing the site and also for your entry in the chainsaw addiction. 2 leads to 3 and on, and on.

Locust is one of those woods that are best cut green. Your seeing sparks is not at all unusual and it is not due to sand, grit etc. getting on the wood, it is the wood itself.

Locust rates at the top of the charts for firewood.

Cutting to post length is a very good idea to minimize cutting and should have a good sales value on craig's list.

Just resign yourself to sharpening chains often and buy several loops. Shop this site's sponsors for them, you will usually beat the price of buying locally even with the shipping charges.Hand sharpening is not that big a deal. You say you only work at the site on weekends, an evening spending an hour hand sharpening during the week should do 3 or 4 chains easily.

Harry K

 

[Urbicide]

Do any types of chain last longer? Do I need to invest in a grinder or bar mount filing guide?

Now that I have two saws I joked to my wife this weekend that she needs to learn how to hand file so she be always sharpening the saw I am not using.

Welcome to ArboristSite.

I went through the same ordeal doing TSI. I now run semi chisel chain that I buy from Bailey's that is sold under the Woodsman Pro label. (Bailey's is a sponsor here and they are an excellent company to do business with.) The chain is actually manufactured by Carlton. It holds up better than round chisel chain in dirty conditions. It just does not cut as fast. Don't even think about square chisel at all.

For 3/8 pitch,.050 guage, you will want 30SC. For .325 pitch, .050 guage, you will want 20NK. (NK is a narrow kerf chain. It is a hair skinnier than a regular .325 chain. You might need to swap out bars but it is worth it.)

 

[atlarge54]

Welcome to ArboristSite.

I went through the same ordeal doing TSI. I now run semi chisel chain that I buy from Bailey's that is sold under the Woodsman Pro label. (Bailey's is a sponsor here and they are an excellent company to do business with.) The chain is actually manufactured by Carlton. It holds up better than round chisel chain in dirty conditions. It just does not cut as fast. Don't even think about square chisel at all.

For 3/8 pitch,.050 guage, you will want 30SC. For .325 pitch, .050 guage, you will want 20NK. (NK is a narrow kerf chain. It is a hair skinnier than a regular .325 chain. You might need to swap out bars but it is worth it.)

Does a semi chisel sharpen the same way? I'm using stihl 20RM2 325Pitch and hand file my chains without a guide unless hitting a real nasty. I'm running an ms 290 with 20" bar which is really too much bar but once in a while I need the extra length, most of the time I run a smaller saw.

 

[Urbicide]

Does a semi chisel sharpen the same way? I'm using stihl 20RM2 325Pitch and hand file my chains without a guide unless hitting a real nasty. I'm running an ms 290 with 20" bar which is really too much bar but once in a while I need the extra length, most of the time I run a smaller saw.

The Woodsman Pro semi chisel chains call for a 35° top plate angle and a 90° (file held level) side plate angle.

 

[49KB-2]

The stihl website has a sharpening video that is very good as well.

Dingeryote

Thanks for the heads up on the video, I didn't know they were there.

Here's a link:
http://stihldealer.net/videolibrary/OnePlayer.aspx?v=3&vt=3&vb=0&id=3

 

[nocdpc]

Thanks for the heads up on the video, I didn't know they were there.

Here's a link:
http://stihldealer.net/videolibrary/OnePlayer.aspx?v=3&vt=3&vb=0&id=3

very cool link. did not know they had that as a resource. There is one thing to read the great article on the forum but to actually see it is priceless.

 

[tomtrees58]

locust will not rot it last 200 + years they used it in house beams tom trees

 

[(WLL)]

i dont have any problems cutting locust or any hardwood. stay out of the dirt!!! i have cut locust [dead & alive] for hours on end. its not the wood it must be some other problem.

 

[Rickytree]

WLL do you mean OPERATOR ERROR? Ya think?

 

[John D]

i dont have any problems cutting locust or any hardwood. stay out of the dirt!!! i have cut locust [dead & alive] for hours on end. its not the wood it must be some other problem.

This frozen seasoned locust in tough stuff! The chains are dull in 5-10 minutes of cutting,you can feel the difference,yes it still cuts,but it really dulls them fast.I can cut for 1/2 hr on red oak,and not get as dull as 5 min in locust.My chains arent anywhere near the ground,as my back isnt the best,I rarley cut for long on the ground between the chainsaw getting pinched abnd my back,I try to hang most logs off the grapple,or other logs under to cut them up.

 

[(WLL)]

This frozen seasoned locust in tough stuff! The chains are dull in 5-10 minutes of cutting,you can feel the difference,yes it still cuts,but it really dulls them fast.I can cut for 1/2 hr on red oak,and not get as dull as 5 min in locust.My chains arent anywhere near the ground,as my back isnt the best,I rarley cut for long on the ground between the chainsaw getting pinched abnd my back,I try to hang most logs off the grapple,or other logs under to cut them up.

chainsaws buzz right threw ice and hard wood. your chain type and angle of attack have a lot to do with how long you can cut before the saw chain becomes wood dull. i have been cutting hard wood and sharpening saw chain for many many years, clean wood and ice does not damage the chain!!!

I rarely cut for long on the ground between the chainsaw getting pinched abnd my back,

a pinched saw can be avoided,IMO, you sound like an armature cutter or lacking proper technique