conflicting information on skip-tooth chain

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Plasmech

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OK I've read two *completely* different ideas on skip-tooth chain:

A. skip tooth is more aggressive than full tooth chain and allows a powerful saw with a modest length bar to cut like there's no tomorrow.

(now we orbit around to the other side of the moon)

B. skip tooth chain takes less wood out with each pass and thereby allows a saw of modest power to run a much longer bar. It's kind of like running your lower powered saw in LOW gear. Takes longer to get the job done, but you get it done smoothly and under control without stalling or burning up your saw.

So which one of these ideas is true? Would appreciate some help here, thanks!
 
OK I've read two *completely* different ideas on skip-tooth chain:

A. skip tooth is more aggressive than full tooth chain and allows a powerful saw with a modest length bar to cut like there's no tomorrow.

(now we orbit around to the other side of the moon)

B. skip tooth chain takes less wood out with each pass and thereby allows a saw of modest power to run a much longer bar. It's kind of like running your lower powered saw in LOW gear. Takes longer to get the job done, but you get it done smoothly and under control without stalling or burning up your saw.

So which one of these ideas is true? Would appreciate some help here, thanks!

Why don't you get a loop of each and find out?:)
 
OK I've read two *completely* different ideas on skip-tooth chain:

A. skip tooth is more aggressive than full tooth chain and allows a powerful saw with a modest length bar to cut like there's no tomorrow.

(now we orbit around to the other side of the moon)

B. skip tooth chain takes less wood out with each pass and thereby allows a saw of modest power to run a much longer bar. It's kind of like running your lower powered saw in LOW gear. Takes longer to get the job done, but you get it done smoothly and under control without stalling or burning up your saw.

So which one of these ideas is true? Would appreciate some help here, thanks!

Not really either of those. Skip has less cutters, every other cutter is missing. Works good on long bars.
 
Skip chain will buck you quicker than full comp if they are stockafter that it's the up to the filer. they both cut greatt if you file them good.

Skip chain has less teeth so you probably can run a longer bar oon the same power head.
 
Not really either of those. Skip has less cutters, every other cutter is missing. Works good on long bars.

+1

Skip chain will buck you quicker than full comp if they are stock after that it's the up to the filer. they both cut great if you file them good.

Skip chain has less teeth so you probably can run a longer bar on the same power head.

+1

Personally. I would never run a full comp chain on my Jonsered 2171 32" B&C. Just too many teeth. :cheers:
 
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The skip chain has 1/3 less cutters, so for a long bar pulling through a long kerf, there is 1/3 less cutters engaging the wood, and 1/3 less chips being made that have to be cleared.
Generally full comp is smoother and easier to use.
 
If all things are equal (bar length, powerhead, and chain sharpness) I beleive full comp chain will cut faster because there are more cutting surfaces in contact with and removing wood. Until you reach a point where your bar length exceeds the capability of your powerhead. Then skip chain will allow you to run a long bar that would normally bog your saw down with full comp chain at normal rpm. Less wear and tear on the saw but not faster cutting. Skip chain is difficult to bore cut with but is definately quicker to sharpen.
 
As I understand it, skip tooth does a few things:

1) allows a saw to pull a longer bar by reducing the number of teeth in contact with the wood;

2) improves chip clearance in bigger wood (again, with longer bars);

3) saves manufacturers money on really small, cheap saws by reducing the number of cutters.

So if chip clearance or horsepower are an issue, then skip chain could be faster.

Philbert
 
As I understand it, skip tooth does a few things:

1) allows a saw to pull a longer bar by reducing the number of teeth in contact with the wood;

2) improves chip clearance in bigger wood (again, with longer bars);

3) saves manufacturers money on really small, cheap saws by reducing the number of cutters.

So if chip clearance or horsepower are an issue, then skip chain could be faster.

Philbert



Yes except on three. Small cheap saws don't run skip. Mostly big, expensive saws run skip.
 
Yes except on three. Small cheap saws don't run skip. Mostly big, expensive saws run skip.

You probably haven't visited Home Depot or Menards recently, where they put skip on small, really cheap saws. Not that they SHOULD, I agree; surprised me. I assume that it is because they don't have much power or found the chain cheaper to buy.

Philbert
 
I feel full comp cuts quicker than skip. I like skip best on my 32" bar primarily because I can sharpen it a lot quicker than full-comp. My 390 can run 32" full comp like a dream, but I compromise and run skip-chain because it simply is easier to maintain.
 
You probably haven't visited Home Depot or Menards recently, where they put skip on small, really cheap saws. Not that they SHOULD, I agree; surprised me. I assume that it is because they don't have much power or found the chain cheaper to buy.

Philbert



LOL, No I have not been one of those stores for a long time. I have never been in one to buy a saw. The last small cheap saws I looked at came with full comp semi chisel chain with a lot of anti kick back bumps all over them.
 
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You probably haven't visited Home Depot or Menards recently, where they put skip on small, really cheap saws. Not that they SHOULD, I agree; surprised me. I assume that it is because they don't have much power or found the chain cheaper to buy.

Philbert

I touched up the chain on a WildThing not long ago and it had skip on it, 3/8 LP, skip and all kinds of safety bumpers on it. It was most unimpressive, but if you put a real chain on that thing there is no way it would pull 18", but box stores try to trick dumb homeowners into thinking an 18" saw is a "big" saw.
 
I touched up the chain on a WildThing not long ago and it had skip on it, 3/8 LP, skip and all kinds of safety bumpers on it.

I got a P.M. about that: cheap saw with skip tooth, but filled in with safety bumpers to reduce kickback - kind of kills the chip clearing advantage, doesn't it?

Philbert
(still have all my teeth)
 
I know everyone will think i'm an idiot, but I have a 346XP with a 28" Bar, that i put a 3/8 sprocket on.
It has to run a skip chain or it wont cut, it bogs down, stalls out, and smokes the clutch.

*off topic, just to answer a question that i'm sure will pop up, I use it up in the tree, so I don't have to lug my 066 up there when i'm blocking out trunk sections. It barely weighs any thing, and cuts fine, a little slow, but still gets the job done, and seems to have plenty of power if you let the saw do the work.
 
I know everyone will think i'm an idiot, but I have a 346XP with a 28" Bar, that i put a 3/8 sprocket on.
It has to run a skip chain or it wont cut, it bogs down, stalls out, and smokes the clutch.

*off topic, just to answer a question that i'm sure will pop up, I use it up in the tree, so I don't have to lug my 066 up there when i'm blocking out trunk sections. It barely weighs any thing, and cuts fine, a little slow, but still gets the job done, and seems to have plenty of power if you let the saw do the work.

HMM, I've seen an impressive ported 346 run a 24" bar ok, but 28" :dizzy::dizzy:
 
the funny thing about my 346 is that i pulled it our of the trash at a former employer of mine. Someone ran it with straight gas in it, no mix. All i've done to it is put a new piston in it, hone the cylinder, mod the muffler, and install a 3/8 sprocket. It has to run skip chain or it will not cut, it just bogs with full comp chain. I don't understand why everyone thinks its near impossible to run a 28" bar on this saw... its all in the chain.
 

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