Porting My MS660

[BloodOnTheIce]

Yep

 

[smokinj]

Yep

looks like good #'s to me pretty wide but thats where the real gains at and Id leave ot ruff like you have it! Looks Good

 

[cody9999]

Carburetion

First, let me say this is one of the best porting threads I've run across.
My question is: Is there enough adjustment in the stock carb for this porting and A muffler mod? In another thread someone said that the jets wouldn't be large enough. But he was working on an older 066. Which is what I'm building.
Question #2 If you tighten the squish should you raise the I and E ports the amount that it is tightened or leave it alone?

 

[BloodOnTheIce]

First, let me say this is one of the best porting threads I've run across.
My question is: Is there enough adjustment in the stock carb for this porting and A muffler mod? In another thread someone said that the jets wouldn't be large enough. But he was working on an older 066. Which is what I'm building.
Question #2 If you tighten the squish should you raise the I and E ports the amount that it is tightened or leave it alone?

As far as I've seen most carbs with hi and low adjustments can handle this sort of modification. Some saws are rev limited by the carb and require some modifications to allow the saw to rev to higher RPM's.

 

[parrisw]

Seeing as what's done is done, I'd run it and see, but I cant see the intake being .18mm lower causing a problem, it might help it actually, it'll give it a little more intake duration.

 

[parrisw]

First, let me say this is one of the best porting threads I've run across.
My question is: Is there enough adjustment in the stock carb for this porting and A muffler mod? In another thread someone said that the jets wouldn't be large enough. But he was working on an older 066. Which is what I'm building.
Question #2 If you tighten the squish should you raise the I and E ports the amount that it is tightened or leave it alone?

I wouldn't for your typical woods port. And raising the roof of the intake will do noting. its the bottom that matters on the intake.

 

[Tzed250]

I am hoping for a 9x19 this fall...

CR500 cylinder head on the 24X120 at work (G job...)

It goes on this...

.

 

[parrisw]

CR500 cylinder head on the 24X120 at work (G job...)

It goes on this...

.

Nice work man!! I'm gealous! What were you doing to it?? Milling the head down?

 

[blsnelling]

Ambition just bit me in the arse.

After getting the piston and exhaust looking decent, I decided after lunch to tackle the intake. And screwed it all up.

The grinder took more material than expected and lower the port in the botom right corner. Is it possible to save this?

Don't sweat it. As long as the skirt still covers the port, you're fine. I usually lower the intake a little anyway. Just make it even on both sides. Give it a little curve, but not as much as the exhaust needs. No rings pass the floor of the intake. If you can, straighten the sides of the port up too and then make the walls of the port straight out to the end of the spigot. Be careful not to go through the wall where the groove is on the outside.

 

[Tzed250]

Nice work man!! I'm gealous! What were you doing to it?? Milling the head down?

Yep...turning the gasket surface to reduce piston clearance (lower squish height). Aftter this the part was put on a surface plate and the gasket surface was lapped until it was perfectly flat.

 

[parrisw]

Yep...turning the gasket surface to reduce piston clearance (lower squish height). Aftter this the part was put on a surface plate and the gasket surface was lapped until it was perfectly flat.

Cool, I really want a lathe, for doing cylinder/piston work, I'd have allot of other use's as well, I want at least a 10x20.

 

[Bowtie]

CR500 cylinder head on the 24X120 at work (G job...)

It goes on this...

.

HAHA!!! Micro midgets!!! AWESOME!!!!! My son will be in one in a few years!! My nephew is runnin them now in Arizona.

 

[Tree Sling'r]

Yep

Take a round wood rasp, bust it off and stick the end in a file holder. Then smooth out the walls and the base of your intake. You are not to wide, but you are un-even - flaten everything out - leave it rough.

 

[parrisw]

Take a round wood rasp, bust it off and stick the end in a file holder. Then smooth out the walls and the base of your intake. You are not to wide, but you are un-even - flaten everything out - leave it rough.

A wood rasp eh?? That's pretty rough, what kind of surface does it leave? I've been using a chainsaw file.

 

[Tree Sling'r]

A wood rasp eh?? That's pretty rough, what kind of surface does it leave? I've been using a chainsaw file.

It removes the material, evens things out. Rough, but even is good on the intake.

 

[parrisw]

It removes the material, evens things out. Rough, but even is good on the intake.

Right, for sure. Do you think the chainsaw file is too smooth? It definitely leaves a rough surface.

 

[Tree Sling'r]

Right, for sure. Do you think the chainsaw file is too smooth? It definitely leaves a rough surface.

I use a saw file after the rasp on the exhaust, followed by medium sanding 1/4in drum, then fine drums then emerycloth in a high speed drill. Nice an shiney.
Knock off the hard stuff and use a rasp, you are in control - not a high speed tool with an aggressive bit.
If my ports don't look good then the saw sucks, just my own anal ways.

 

[parrisw]

I use a saw file after the rasp on the exhaust, followed by medium sanding 1/4in drum, then fine drums then emerycloth in a high speed drill. Nice an shiney.
Knock off the hard stuff and use a rasp, you are in control - not a high speed tool with an aggressive bit.
If my ports don't look good then the saw sucks, just my own anal ways.

Yes, I agree. I like my work to look neat too. I have still much to learn on this porting thing, I've had some success though, I usually use a high speed bit first a aluma-cut, it does remove material very fast though!!! Must be careful, works well for hogging out lots of material, on lower transfers when needed.

 

[wigglesworth]

I did some more grinding on the piston windows, they look pretty decent.

Is it just me or does that look like a crack starting on the wrist pin hole?

 

[wigglesworth]

I use a saw file after the rasp on the exhaust, followed by medium sanding 1/4in drum, then fine drums then emerycloth in a high speed drill. Nice an shiney.
Knock off the hard stuff and use a rasp, you are in control - not a high speed tool with an aggressive bit.
If my ports don't look good then the saw sucks, just my own anal ways.

Amen to the emery cloth. Leaves a nice shiney finish. Also have to second the hand tools vs. rotary tools with the hog cutters. There is no "whoops" factor with the rasp and file's.