plastic restoration

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Justsaws

Justsaws

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Mar 3, 2006
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4,825
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Zanesville Ohio
They used those products at a place I once worked. They seemed pleased with the results. They were using it on display cases, trade show equipment, displays and decoration.

I personally was not impressed but I did not use it myself. I do not know how well or if the directions were followed. I would compare it to Pledge on wood. The results did not last long and any fine scratches came back with contact from any other solvent, such as a beer.
 
FATGUY

FATGUY

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Jun 2, 2008
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Originally, ON Canada, now Cincinnati OH
Yeah that handle does look like hell !!!

I think you should give that saw to one of your buddies from Ky. and get yourself a NEW one!!!!

think there's anyone that would be so kind as to take that saw..... ?Perhaps it might be a worthy addition to some of their, and how does he always BS it? oh yeah, "old junks":hmm3grin2orange:
 
edisto

edisto

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Jan 13, 2009
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21,683
Location
SC
I've been working on a Husky cover for my 61 to 272 conversion, and was trying the same procedure I use on gun parts.

I used wet-dry sandpaper with water as a "vehicle". I started with 400 grit (to remove scrateches), then 600, then 800, and up to 1500. The 1500 didn't leave a smooth enough finish (smooth, but not shiny), and my initial plan was to go to 2500, then honing compound (followed by toothpaste), but I stopped at 1500 because it was clear I was not going to get rid of the discoloration caused by the sun.

I had taken the stickers off (it was a 268XP lid), and where the letters were, the plastic was much lighter...you could still read the words. In some places I was using 60 grit paper to try to get to "new" plastic, but no luck. Once I realized I wasn't going to get the color even, I switched gears, and am in the process of painting the cover.

So...toothpaste, or some other compound might smooth out the plastic, but some discoloration can run deep, and you can't get it out even with serious sanding.
 
FATGUY

FATGUY

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
6,535
Location
Originally, ON Canada, now Cincinnati OH
I've been working on a Husky cover for my 61 to 272 conversion, and was trying the same procedure I use on gun parts.

I used wet-dry sandpaper with water as a "vehicle". I started with 400 grit (to remove scrateches), then 600, then 800, and up to 1500. The 1500 didn't leave a smooth enough finish (smooth, but not shiny), and my initial plan was to go to 2500, then honing compound (followed by toothpaste), but I stopped at 1500 because it was clear I was not going to get rid of the discoloration caused by the sun.

I had taken the stickers off (it was a 268XP lid), and where the letters were, the plastic was much lighter...you could still read the words. In some places I was using 60 grit paper to try to get to "new" plastic, but no luck. Once I realized I wasn't going to get the color even, I switched gears, and am in the process of painting the cover.

So...toothpaste, or some other compound might smooth out the plastic, but some discoloration can run deep, and you can't get it out even with serious sanding.

I was afraid of that..... If that didn't work, I really don't think anything will.
 
Andyshine77
Joined
Jan 25, 2004
Messages
11,305
Location
Cincinnati, OH
Nik. I'll bring my some polishing compound over the this week, and we'll buff out your sweet 361. Here is a picture of a BMW I buffed out about 10 years ago. Can you see the car. Be leave it or not you're looking at my reflection in the hood of a black 750IL

attachment.php
 
Spitzer

Spitzer

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Joined
Dec 7, 2008
Messages
159
Location
uk
Nik. I'll bring my some polishing compound over the this week, and we'll buff out your sweet 361. Here is a picture of a BMW I buffed out about 10 years ago. Can you see the car. Be leave it or not you're looking at my reflection in the hood of a black 750IL

attachment.php

Ahh, "Andyshine" fits that photo very well. Nice work.
 

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