cutting logs that are larger than your bar

[woodlumn]

hey folks,

I hooked up with a local tree service who may dump loads of wood in my yard from time to time. some of the pieces I've seen when I pick up stuff from their shop are HUGE.

I have a 455 Rancher with a 20" bar and am not an expert cutter. most of my experience with the saw is cutting up logs 18" diameter and smaller.

What is the technique and what are the tools for dealing with really large pieces of trunk that may be in excess of 24"?

Thank you!

 

[beerman6]

Cut from both sides then roll it over.

 

[woodlumn]

Cut from both sides then roll it over.

what can I expect to happen when the tip of the bar begins to submerge into the log? sorry if it's a stupid question, just makes sense for me to think about these things ahead of time

 

[stihl sawing]

what can I expect to happen when the tip of the bar begins to submerge into the log? sorry if it's a stupid question, just makes sense for me to think about these things ahead of time

Nothing, Just saw down close to the ground and then cut from the other side. If you go all the way through use a plastic wedge in the top kerf to keep from pinching you're saw. And no question is a stupid one.

 

[KMB]

Nothing, Just saw down close to the ground and then cut from the other side. If you go all the way through use a plastic wedge in the top kerf to keep from pinching you're saw.

What he said.

Kevin

 

[woodlumn]

excellent. thanks all!

 

[stihl sawing]

When you get close to the bottom just be carefull not to hit the dirt as you will dull the chain. As was mentioned just get close and roll it over with a canthook.

 

[BuddhaKat]

Experienced cutters are probably using unfamiliar words to describe what they're suggesting. I'll try to clear it up.

To answer your questions; You have a couple of options. Of course, cutting from both sides is a common solution to this very common problem. The kerf, is the slot created by cutting. When you get close to the bottom the wood can sometimes shift and start closing the kerf, which pinches your bar, creating a lot of cussing that you never knew you had in you. A plastic wedge solves this problem. You can get them from Bailey's. They're cheap and WELL worth the expense. I must use a wedge a hundred times a day when I'm cutting. Get the plastic one because you don't ruin your chain when you hit them with the chain. Kiss your chain goodbye if you hit a metal wedge or your axe blade. You can get to Bailey's by clicking their icon above.

If the logs are really big you might need a cant hook or a Peavey to roll them over. I prefer the Peavey myself. If you're going to cut a lot of wood either of those would be a good investment, but they can be a little pricey.

Here's the most important part. You asked about burying the bar. There's no problem with that, as long as your bar is getting plenty of oil. The 455 can handle a 20" bar all day long without a problem. The thing you have to be careful about is kickback. To say that kickback is dangerous is an understatement. People have been killed or horribly maimed by kickbacks. The best thing to do is avoid using the top quadrant of the tip of the bar, (9:00 to 12:00 or 12:00 to 3:00, depending on what side of the bar you're looking at), to cut with. If the chain catches there it throws the saw up, usually into your face or your leg. If you have no choice other than using the top part of the tip, be sure to hold on tightly and be ready for a kickback. You won't stop it from happening, but hopefully you'll catch it before it cuts your jugular vein.

Something else you might consider is Personal Protective Equipment. Always wear safety glasses when cutting. The other thing to look at is a set of chaps. They'll stop a chain before it cuts through your leg. Go to www.labonville.com and take a look at what they're got. I think they have the best chaps. All the other vendors carry chaps as well. Even if you don't get the best, something is better than nothing.

 

[stihl sawing]

Experienced cutters are probably using unfamiliar words to describe what they're suggesting. I'll try to clear it up.

To answer your questions; You have a couple of options. Of course, cutting from both sides is a common solution to this very common problem. The kerf, is the slot created by cutting. When you get close to the bottom the wood can sometimes shift and start closing the kerf, which pinches your bar, creating a lot of cussing that you never knew you had in you. A plastic wedge solves this problem. You can get them from Bailey's. They're cheap and WELL worth the expense. I must use a wedge a hundred times a day when I'm cutting. Get the plastic one because you don't ruin your chain when you hit them with the chain. Kiss your chain goodbye if you hit a metal wedge or your axe blade. You can get to Bailey's by clicking their icon above.

If the logs are really big you might need a cant hook or a Peavey to roll them over. I prefer the Peavey myself. If you're going to cut a lot of wood either of those would be a good investment, but they can be a little pricey.

Here's the most important part. You asked about burying the bar. There's no problem with that, as long as your bar is getting plenty of oil. The 455 can handle a 20" bar all day long without a problem. The thing you have to be careful about is kickback. To say that kickback is dangerous is an understatement. People have been killed or horribly maimed by kickbacks. The best thing to do is avoid using the top quadrant of the tip of the bar, (9:00 to 12:00 or 12:00 to 3:00, depending on what side of the bar you're looking at), to cut with. If the chain catches there it throws the saw up, usually into your face or your leg. If you have no choice other than using the top part of the tip, be sure to hold on tightly and be ready for a kickback. You won't stop it from happening, but hopefully you'll catch it before it cuts your jugular vein.

Something else you might consider is Personal Protective Equipment. Always wear safety glasses when cutting. The other thing to look at is a set of chaps. They'll stop a chain before it cuts through your leg. Go to www.labonville.com and take a look at what they're got. I think they have the best chaps. All the other vendors carry chaps as well. Even if you don't get the best, something is better than nothing.

Very good. I didn't think about him being new and not knowing the terms. Would rep you if i could.

 

[7sleeper]

The only thing I would add to what Buddha wrote is don't lean to much on the saw! Let the saw do the cutting.

7

 

[ray benson]

Read your saw owners manual for some safe bucking practices. Here is a little more info.

 

[MJR]

Also, if you place your saw on a flat surface you will see the bar point up a little. This was designed to keep your bar from hitting the ground. Cut down till the bottom of your saw is sitting flash with the ground and your chain should never hit dirt.

 

[woodlumn]

The best thing to do is avoid using the top quadrant of the tip of the bar, (9:00 to 12:00 or 12:00 to 3:00, depending on what side of the bar you're looking at), to cut with. If the chain catches there it throws the saw up, usually into your face or your leg.

Thank you, BuddhaKat - this is exactly what I was concerned about.

How can I be sure (or at least mostly sure) that I'm not cutting with the top outer quadrant? Would this have something to do with keeping the bar angled up slightly and not pitching it downward?

I do where goggles, ear protection, gloves, and steel-toe boots when I cut. I will look into chaps. I plan on getting better head/face gear as well, definitely before attempting the type of cutting that we're discussing here.

Thanks guys.

 

[Beefie]

Very good. I didn't think about him being new and not knowing the terms. Would rep you if i could.

I got him taken care of REP sent out. Very good info you gave BuddaKat.

Beefie

 

[BuddhaKat]

Thank you, BuddhaKat - this is exactly what I was concerned about.

How can I be sure (or at least mostly sure) that I'm not cutting with the top outer quadrant? Would this have something to do with keeping the bar angled up slightly and not pitching it downward?

I do where goggles, ear protection, gloves, and steel-toe boots when I cut. I will look into chaps. I plan on getting better head/face gear as well, definitely before attempting the type of cutting that we're discussing here.

Thanks guys.

The only way to be sure is to watch what you're doing, especially if you're going to stick the tip of the bar where you can't see it. Here's a good resource for people just getting started:

http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/ageng/safety/ae1025w.htm

Oh, here's my unbreakable rule for me and anyone that works for me: No starting a saw without chaps on. PERIOD!! The only exception is if there's no chain on the powerhead. Most chainsaw cuts are to the legs.

 

[BigPITA]

Experienced cutters are probably using unfamiliar words to describe what they're suggesting. I'll try to clear it up.

To answer your questions; You have a couple of options. Of course, cutting from both sides is a common solution to this very common problem. The kerf, is the slot created by cutting. When you get close to the bottom the wood can sometimes shift and start closing the kerf, which pinches your bar, creating a lot of cussing that you never knew you had in you. A plastic wedge solves this problem. You can get them from Bailey's. They're cheap and WELL worth the expense. I must use a wedge a hundred times a day when I'm cutting. Get the plastic one because you don't ruin your chain when you hit them with the chain. Kiss your chain goodbye if you hit a metal wedge or your axe blade. You can get to Bailey's by clicking their icon above.

If the logs are really big you might need a cant hook or a Peavey to roll them over. I prefer the Peavey myself. If you're going to cut a lot of wood either of those would be a good investment, but they can be a little pricey.

Here's the most important part. You asked about burying the bar. There's no problem with that, as long as your bar is getting plenty of oil. The 455 can handle a 20" bar all day long without a problem. The thing you have to be careful about is kickback. To say that kickback is dangerous is an understatement. People have been killed or horribly maimed by kickbacks. The best thing to do is avoid using the top quadrant of the tip of the bar, (9:00 to 12:00 or 12:00 to 3:00, depending on what side of the bar you're looking at), to cut with. If the chain catches there it throws the saw up, usually into your face or your leg. If you have no choice other than using the top part of the tip, be sure to hold on tightly and be ready for a kickback. You won't stop it from happening, but hopefully you'll catch it before it cuts your jugular vein.

Something else you might consider is Personal Protective Equipment. Always wear safety glasses when cutting. The other thing to look at is a set of chaps. They'll stop a chain before it cuts through your leg. Go to www.labonville.com and take a look at what they're got. I think they have the best chaps. All the other vendors carry chaps as well. Even if you don't get the best, something is better than nothing.

Great info BuddhaKat! I had my first experience this past weekend with a tree pinching my saw and not being able to get it out (I saw it happening and couldn't get it out fast enough). :censored: Still a major noob here and have only one saw. To make matters worse, I don't have any wedges. So, have to call my wife to bring me the ax so that I can chop down the tree... left-hand no less! :bang: After some time, I got enough pressure released and was able to get the saw out and finish up with it. Having said all that... wedges are on my list to get ASAP and I'll start being more prepared before heading out to cut.

Not to highjack the thread... it's funny to have just read the thread, as I just got off the phone with Bailey's (after getting their catalog this weekend ) and some of what BuddhaKat mentions is exactly what I was told. I actually called to talk about a replacement chain, since I was previously getting them at a place not to be mentioned. I inquired about the chains they sell not having anit-kickback and what I should expect, considering all the chains I got at the other place had the feature. Bailey's guy mentioned that with the anti-kickback feature, if you're burying the bar into the wood the cut typically ends up going on an angle instead of straight. I had to laugh as I was experiencing this crap this past weekend trying to re-size some 22"+ rounds. Makes it a royal PITA to try trimming off 5-6" when the darn thing keeps cutting at an angle! (why did I have to trim... b/c it was free wood from someone who already cut the tree into sections.... free wood and the dude cut it... no complaints here! Especially since a number didn't need any trimming.)

Anyway, where was I... oh... the topic was burying the bar.... talking from experience... if you're going to do this, you do not want to have a chain with the anti-kickback feature as it will royally screw up your cuts. Having never personally used a chain without such a feature, Bailey's indicated that there would be a difference, mostly when doing certain cuts (such as from underneath), and to make sure I was wearing the proper safety/protection gear (which I need to add to)... which is exactly what BuddhaKat said in his post as well.

So, to sum up... definitely look into getting some wedges... sucks to have your saw pinched (especially when you have only 1!), make sure you have your protection gear, and if you're burying the bar... make sure you have the 'proper' type of chain.

 

[jasoutside]

The only way to be sure is to watch what you're doing, especially if you're going to stick the tip of the bar where you can't see it. Here's a good resource for people just getting started:

http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/ageng/safety/ae1025w.htm

Oh, here's my unbreakable rule for me and anyone that works for me: No starting a saw without chaps on. PERIOD!! The only exception is if there's no chain on the powerhead. Most chainsaw cuts are to the legs.

No chaps, no saw, your rules are awesome!!! I love that rule! I have no idea how this whole rep thing works so here is a high five for ya! Or maybe a little clapping guy

Cheers!

 

[BuddhaKat]

No chaps, no saw, your rules are awesome!!! I love that rule! I have no idea how this whole rep thing works so here is a high five for ya! Or maybe a little clapping guy

Cheers!

It's easy to Rep BuddhaKat. From within the post you want to base the Rep on, just click the button on the bottom left.

 

[jasoutside]

It's easy to Rep BuddhaKat. From within the post you want to base the Rep on, just click the button on the bottom left.

Cool, first rep handed out is yours man. Cheers!

 

[danrclem]

If the log being bucked is not a whole lot bigger than the bar you can cut it from one side. You can raise the back end of your chain saw up and the bar is pointing downhill and it is actually cutting the other side. Just be careful and don't stretch where any part of your body will be over the bar.

Wood is fun and saves money but the main thing is to be careful and not get hurt.