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clinchscavalry

clinchscavalry

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Got the log splitter back from the shop today and sold about a half cord to the repair guy:) Then we went to the orchard and tested the new 7900 on a big pecan that our splitter wouldn't touch. It started easily, idled great and ran strong, but the brand new chain leaves something to be desired. Pecan is a type of hickory as most of y'all know, and hickories have nasty stuff in the bark that eats chains. If I remember correctly, the bark has silicon in it which is not compatible with fast moving metal with sharp edges. The saw ran fast and strong, though probably not as good as it will when it gets broken in, but the chain was throwing small chips and way too much dust:mad: There were occasional sparks flying and even glowing "embers" falling on the ground every now and then. I'm glad we weren't leaking gas:eek:

We sunk the saw in a butt cut of around 36 inches diameter, and it chewed through it pretty good, but too much fine stuff was thrown back, and this is a brand new chain. BTW, I heard the 4 stroking some of y'all were talking about. Never noticed it before with the other saws.

Is it possible the teeth are ground for softwoods like pine ? What angle do the new chains normally have on them, and what should I shoot for if I'll be cutting hardwood almost exclusively ?
 
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Warroad50

Warroad50

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Got the log splitter back from the shop today and sold about a half cord to the repair guy:) Then we went to the orchard and tested the new 7900 on a big pecan that our splitter wouldn't touch. It started easily, idled great and ran strong, but the brand new chain leaves something to be desired. Pecan is a type of hickory as most of y'all know, and hickories have nasty stuff in the bark that eats chains. If I remember correctly, the bark has silicon in it which is not compatible with fast moving metal with sharp edges. The saw ran fast and strong, though probably not as good as it will when it gets broken in, but the chain was throwing small chips and way too much dust:mad: There were occasional sparks flying and even glowing "embers" falling on the ground every now and then. I'm glad we weren't leaking gas:eek:

We sunk the saw in a butt cut of around 36 inches diameter, and it chewed through it pretty good, but too much fine stuff was thrown back, and this is a brand new chain. BTW, I heard the 4 stroking some of y'all were talking about. Never noticed it before with the other saws.

Is it possible the teeth are ground for softwoods like pine ? What angle do the new chains normally have on them, and what should I shoot for if I'll be cutting hardwood almost exclusively ?

Are you talking about the pos safety chain that comes with the saw all saws come with safety chain. Go and get some good stuff and unleash the beast! :chainsaw:
 
ROOTSXROCKS

ROOTSXROCKS

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speaking of strange things that happen, My 335, had barley 3 hours on it
Had been put up, and the next time i started it the chain spun just a tad then nothing, I checked the brake, not on, it would Rpm up but no spin.

tooke the side cover off and the clutch and crank fell out, the crank shaft had snapped clean,
Shop repaired it under warranty, but its never been the same, I wish it would have happened sooner, it was nearly 7 months after I bought it that it happened, even though I had used the saw very little.
 
johnnywitt

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didn't know you got one....congrats!!!!

Yeah, I got it with a 24" bar.:clap: I figured out the decompression button. I take back what I said before, its really a lot easier to pull if you hit the decom button.
What kind of chain do I need? I just have the one that came with the saw, which I finally dulled today because the saw is throwing sawdust instead of chips and its not cutting near as good. Sounds like I got the "safety chain" as well. What is "safety chain"? I don't think the 22" red oak that I just felled felt too "safe".
 
Warroad50

Warroad50

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Baileys Woodland Pro is some good chain or Oregon you need to know how many drive links for the length of bar your running. The pitch for that saw should be 3/8 and you need to know the gauge for the bar like whether it is .050 or .058 all the info should be on your bar.
 
ROOTSXROCKS

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be careful with them chains they are faster and cut better and longer, but they will Grab and send that saw place you don't want it to go if your not careful.

just be extra precautions till you get the feel of the bigger bite.
 
Oldsawnut

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I would use the compression release on the 7900.. I didn't on my 7901 and ended up breaking the pulley.. If nothing else it keeps the stress off the starting mechanism. I don't use compression release on any of my other saws but never had a problem with them either.
 
nmurph

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sometimes i use the decomp but not always.

safety chain has a "ramp" in front of the depth gauge....i like stihl rsc...it is more expensive, but does not stretch like other chains and stays sharper longer.....i have heard about the silica issue, but i was not aware of it being an issue with pecan....which i was also not aware was a hickory......did a little reading and it seems that domesticated pecan is in the same genus but is not all that similar to hickory, while wild pecan and hickory are nearly indistinguishable.....
 
Woodcutteranon

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Please take no offense to this post as I had the same problem when I first had a 7900 in my hand...but I eventually got it running. My problem... I had it turned off! For some reason the on/off switch was "counter intuitive" to the way my mind was processing the way I thought it should work. I flipped the red switch to what I thought was on...it was actually off...and started pulling and pulling. My buddy took over and he did the same thing. It wasn't after we stopped and looked at it that we both realized the switch was in the off position. Duhhh.

Funny though we both did the exact same thing again. Him once and me twice! After living with an "up/down" switch on my Husky's...the side to side switch was too much for my simple mind to grasp.

I am wondering if the same could have happened to you, the saw flooded, and then you got wrapped around the axle with the spark plug mess? Either way, I know you will love that saw. It is a monster.


Here you can see the on/off switch. The little red switch to the left of the rear handle. I kept thinking it should work the other way...Duhh
attachment.php
 
Steve NW WI

Steve NW WI

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WCA, I've done the same once or twice on my 7300, but it's second nature after running it for a while. My 5100 took more getting used to, kept shutting it off by choking it, it's opposite of how the Stihl controls are (off=up on Stihl, down on Dolmar) Never had a flooded saw because of it, though.

Clinch, search up some of the many posts on here about sharpening, get a good file guide and the right size files, and sharpen them yourself. At least "here", none of the bigger pro saws come with safety chain. My 5100 did, but my 7300 came with Oregon LGX. 24" bar takes an 84 drive link chain, check the numbers on the side of your bar to find out for sure if you have .050 or .058 guage chain (might also be listed as 1.3 or 1.5mm). Mine with the Dolmar bar is .050, but I've seen them listed both ways. Once you know what you have, make sure a hardware store flunky doesn't give you the wrong one in the future. Good luck with the saw, I love running my 73, off to do some cutting now!
 
clinchscavalry

clinchscavalry

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Been at the computer looking at chains, grinds, sizes, etc. and studying the Dolmar OEM chain. It's not a "safety chain", and from what I can determine, the 7900 comes with only the 3/8 pitch, 50 gauge, round ground chisel. It has 92 links (28" bar). I went ahead and bought a second chain when I got the saw which is identical to the one that came on it. I just can't figure out why it throws so much dust, but, as I have found with our other saws, pecan is very rough on the chains. I personally think it's the bark, just like hickory. I sure don't want to take the time to debark before every cut, but something has to be changed to make any production on this wood.

I have good and bad days sharpening most anything. For example, sometimes I can get a razor edge on a hunting knife and sometimes it seems I make it duller. The same goes for saw chains. Sometimes the thing will throw chips and go through wood with a vengeance and other times all I can do is make dust. I really don't want to start filing on a brand new chain just yet based on my mixed history of success:confused::

Can someone suggest a really good after market chain for this saw ? Just looking at the Oregon "pro" chains in closeups, this Dolmar looks pretty close, might even be made by Oregon (box says "Made in Canada") and the number is 523 100 092G. So far I haven't got a clue what the "G" stands for.

We cut for maybe thirty minutes yesterday and even the first cut didn't perform like I expected. However, the saw itself ran great, no complaints there.

Thanks for reminding me that the comp. release will help save components. That's good advice, although it starts pretty easy without it.


:help:
 
discounthunter

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Been at the computer looking at chains, grinds, sizes, etc. and studying the Dolmar OEM chain. It's not a "safety chain", and from what I can determine, the 7900 comes with only the 3/8 pitch, 50 gauge, round ground chisel. It has 92 links (28" bar). I went ahead and bought a second chain when I got the saw which is identical to the one that came on it. I just can't figure out why it throws so much dust, but, as I have found with our other saws, pecan is very rough on the chains. I personally think it's the bark, just like hickory. I sure don't want to take the time to debark before every cut, but something has to be changed to make any production on this wood.

I have good and bad days sharpening most anything. For example, sometimes I can get a razor edge on a hunting knife and sometimes it seems I make it duller. The same goes for saw chains. Sometimes the thing will throw chips and go through wood with a vengeance and other times all I can do is make dust. I really don't want to start filing on a brand new chain just yet based on my mixed history of success:confused::

Can someone suggest a really good after market chain for this saw ? Just looking at the Oregon "pro" chains in closeups, this Dolmar looks pretty close, might even be made by Oregon (box says "Made in Canada") and the number is 523 100 092G. So far I haven't got a clue what the "G" stands for.

We cut for maybe thirty minutes yesterday and even the first cut didn't perform like I expected. However, the saw itself ran great, no complaints there.

Thanks for reminding me that the comp. release will help save components. That's good advice, although it starts pretty easy without it.


:help:

ive cut pecan with no problems, useing stihl chain factory groung and resharpened, throwing chips every time,even milling i do get dust but bigger than powder stuff.

take a look at your rakers are they straight up or curled over?and just to be a wise guy you do have the cutters facing foward?,lol
 
clinchscavalry

clinchscavalry

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I think I'll go ahead and sharpen the brand new chain. Someone at the factory might have had a bad day when they built this one. Thanks for all the suggestions.



One saw down, but four still runnin'.
When you asked if the chain was on backwards, I knew you wuz funnin'.

The rubber plugs fell out of my Husky yesterday eve.
I thought the saw was comin' apart in my hands, that's what I believed.

An order to Baileys should take care of that chore.
The online catalog said there wuz four.

Never noticed the ones in the back.
But for the last several decades my mind's been kinda slack.

My beloved Hommie XL the wife gave my one Christmas just won't fire at all.
I'm afraid this might be the last call.

We're fixin' the cow pasture fence again today.
Maybe some more barb wire will convince them to stay.

If the plugs fall out again we're down to Big Red and the Stihl.
My son really likes them but I probably never will.

I guess I'll sign off now and stoke up both the fires.
We had our very FIRST heavy frost last night and I ain't a liar.

The wife runs around the house dressed like it's the fourth of July.
And expects me to keep the temp. around 80 or she starts to cry,

That she's freezing and threatens to turn up the central unit thermostat.
I won't set it above 62, paid $1300 one month, been there, done that.

Once the BS starts rolling it gets real hard to stop,
But I just heard "Russ, it's time to eat" so I better go get my slop.

:biggrinbounce2:
 
nanuk

nanuk

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Silly Me!

I had only run old saws as a kid.
My wife bought me a new one, the infamous Crapsman!

Nice saw I thought, Poulan built!

took it home and got 'er started... wouldn't open up!

took it back and they brought me out a another new one...

then, just before leaving, the girl at the counter sez, "Hey... you DID release the brake, right? They ship with it on!"

Well she grabs the saw and guess what....

Goes to show you.. buy from a dealer! and have them show you how it all works!

I bought a used Stihl off a guy outside the Stihl dealer. he needed cash for the new one. The dealer took me and my saw into the back to the log, and showed my ALL the operations, then cut a cookie. I started the saw and cut one also... then he reviewed cold start, hot start, and routine maintanance!

that Dealer gets most of my business now... Not all cause they only carry Stihl and Husky!

Oh.. and that Crapsman? the bar studs pulled through the case, Wouldn't start warm... no matter what! always flooded. Its now in pieces as my first learning saw! P&C still good. one to practice on!
 
Adirondack

Adirondack

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I have never been able to flood my 7900 no matter how hard I try. It is funny to hear others have also tried the start switch in the off position as well. :dizzy: Figure that. Every time I forget and have it in the off position to start and flip to on it starts right up. I figured I had flooded from the pulling and flipping the choke off and on, but every time it fires up. I have never had a starting problem unless I was the problem. It did take me a while to get the sequence down for starting. Once you get it down it should start like clockwork.

As far as chain. Mine came with a Oregon LPX which has the bumper guards on the front of the raker. I changed to LGX Oregon and that is the best chain for around 12-15 dollars. I think Amicks has the best deal on LGX but only order up to three chains and the shipping is only 4.95 which is what really saves the money. I think you will like that chain. Baileys has Woodland pro RC which is a great chain also. I like both but I think LGX is better as it seems to stays sharper longer. My opinion might change the better I become with sharpening. I cut some pretty nasty old oak that has been on the ground for a while. Good look with your saw. :cheers:
 
billmartin

billmartin

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Lol I Just had a heck of a time yesterday morning with my husky. Dang thing just won't fire!!! After pulling the plug to dry it out I realized that these things work way better with the switch in the on position!!!:buttkick:

Yes I felt foolish but hey we all need our pride stomped on once in a while:)
 
ROOTSXROCKS

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Lol I Just had a heck of a time yesterday morning with my husky. Dang thing just won't fire!!! After pulling the plug to dry it out I realized that these things work way better with the switch in the on position!!!:buttkick:

Yes I felt foolish but hey we all need our pride stomped on once in a while:)
can't Imagine that not happening to everyone at some point.
 

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