Fluids question

[zoulas]

#1
Anyone use winter grade bar oil? Is it really necssary? Or just stick with the standard stuff. I read somwhere that the hot engine heats up the oil enough where it moves adequately in cold weather.

#2
I read too many good things about Stihl Ultra 2 cycle oil. My dealer does not even carry it because he says 'it just costs more and there is no benefit over the orange bottle type' What do you guys think about Stihl ULTRA? Can you use it on a NEW chainsaw or must it be broken in (kind of like what they say to do with cars when switching to full synthetic.)

#3
There HAS TO BE a better way to get the bar oil from the gallon container into the saw. If its windy or if your hand shakes a bit it can go all over the place. If you overfill it then you really have a mess on your hands. Is there a 'Tip' to put on the bottle opening so you can squeeze it out and really CONTROL how much comes out? Or is there some other way. I would rather spend more time cutting and less time cleaning up sticky bar oil.

THANKS!

 

[ms290]

Well when its really cold here in Oklahoma my saws prefer the first tank to be winter grade thin oil. After that they get the regular if it flows out of the jug.

Use a funnel for the filling. Cleanup is not needed. Chips clean it just fine for me.

 

[porch monkey]

Wow! Those are some really novel and unique questions. I can't wait to see the answers you get. Maybe when you get those figgered out you can start a thread about "How do you clean your saws" and "What do you take to the woods with you"

 

[GlenM]

Use an old plastic gearoil qt. container with the pointy tip.

 

[mikefunaro]

#1. I do use winter weight from time to time. Sometimes I do a mix between standard weight and winter weight. You can also cut summer/standard weight with diesel or kerosene. Another trick is to pre-warm the bar oil by keeping it inside before you go cutting. The saw's own heat will keep it warm more or less. If you're cutting below 0 you'd probably be better off running straight winter. If you have easy access to it, it's cold enough, and you're not getting ripped at like $20/gal, it's worth using. Here it's the same price as the orange bottle stihl so I use buy and mix. The biggest thing is whether or not your bar is getting lubrication. If it is, then you dont really need WW.

#2. If your dealer honestly believes that there is not a market for it, then you probably shouldn't burden him by making him order a case, unless you can take the case. That's a quick way to make an enemy. I think its irrefutable that there are benefits. Orange bottle stihl works fine and protects the P&C but definitely more carbon and fouling. If you shop around you may be able to find a semi-synthetic locally. I actually like these (husky xp, echo powerblend, etc). Otherwise, go to another stihl dealer, or go to baileys and get woodland pro synthetic. the woodland pro synthetic is a good oil, made by the same guys that make most of the rest of them.

3. GO TO AUTOZONE or another autoparts store. There is a twist-valve spout that comes with a piece of vinyl tubing attached. Ditch the tubing. They're incredible...twist...fill...twist...remove! Props to whomever realized this. It's designed for 1 gallon jugs of oil or other fluids for cars but works great for saws. They're like ~$3-4

 

[GPETER]

#1
Anyone use winter grade bar oil? Is it really necssary? Or just stick with the standard stuff. I read somwhere that the hot engine heats up the oil enough where it moves adequately in cold weather.

#2
I read too many good things about Stihl Ultra 2 cycle oil. My dealer does not even carry it because he says 'it just costs more and there is no benefit over the orange bottle type' What do you guys think about Stihl ULTRA? Can you use it on a NEW chainsaw or must it be broken in (kind of like what they say to do with cars when switching to full synthetic.)

#3
There HAS TO BE a better way to get the bar oil from the gallon container into the saw. If its windy or if your hand shakes a bit it can go all over the place. If you overfill it then you really have a mess on your hands. Is there a 'Tip' to put on the bottle opening so you can squeeze it out and really CONTROL how much comes out? Or is there some other way. I would rather spend more time cutting and less time cleaning up sticky bar oil.

THANKS!

#1 - Yes and yes. thick oil can damage the oiler. Dont use winter in the summer though.

#2- Use whatever oil makes you feel good and meets the manufacturer spec, if you want to learn too much ablout oil go to bobstheoilguy.com. I use stihl ultra, my dealer did not carry it either so I asked him to order it in and he did. Be prepared for a walletectomy.

#3- Reuse a squeeze bottle of your choice- Ketchup, BBQ sauce, gear oil whatever is close at hand, just remember to clean it out nice.


Another reason to search and for a Faq (FAQ) on this forum.

 

[zoulas]

All great answers, thanks. Never thought of the gear oil can for bar oil. That should work well!

 

[porch monkey]

If its too thick to pour buy it in 5 gallon buckets and use a pump lid. Or buy it in gallon jugs, heat it by the fire and then pour it up in one of those big liquid soap or hand cleaner jugs with a pump and just pump it in. You can get those pretty clean by running water in them until they quit foaming and then rinsing them out with diesel

 

[dh1984]

well me i just take and use the regular stihl bar oil becuase i keep my oil and gas in the well house where it stays heated for the tank and pump in there and never had a problem yet out of thick oil

 

[KUBOTA OWNER]

Note sure if this will help but I have found that a squeeze bottle from an outboard motor gear oil works great. --- have also saved the syn. hyd oil from when I changed the fluid in my kubota. very clean and hard not to reuse
for something. now I have 7 1/2 gallons to use up. should last until me a life time. If someone knew a imp. dealer they may give you some syn. waste oil?

 

[Gizzard]

All great answers, thanks. Never thought of the gear oil can for bar oil. That should work well!

Same as GlenM mentioned, I use the gear oil bottle. This works great and there always plenty of them around the shop.

 

[Dale]

I've never had an issue pouring the bar oil in straight out of the Stihl 1 Gal. jusgs. Then again, I'm sure it's all relevant to how your saw is set up with say, the handle in relationship to the oil compartment.

I just posted a few days ago on the merits of the Stihl Ultra. Had not had 1 bad response, therefore I'll be running all my 2-cycle equiipment with it, and eliminating a score of different mixes in different containers.

 

[stihlfarmer]

Note sure if this will help but I have found that a squeeze bottle from an outboard motor gear oil works great. --- have also saved the syn. hyd oil from when I changed the fluid in my kubota. very clean and hard not to reuse
for something. now I have 7 1/2 gallons to use up. should last until me a life time. If someone knew a imp. dealer they may give you some syn. waste oil?

That is some pretty thin bar oil !!!!! most is 10w personally I dont believe in changing hydraulic oil on tractors or combines we own 6 of them and my deere dealer doesnt think its neccesary unless there has been some kind of internal mechanical failure and this is dino oil!!!!

save the money on hydraulic oil and buy real bar oil

 

[spudulike]

Same as GlenM mentioned, I use the gear oil bottle. This works great and there always plenty of them around the shop.

:agree2:

Best solution - I use one with the 3" pipe on the top, usually used to squeeze oil in to diffs and gear boxes - works really well!

Spud

 

[striperswaper]

where do you buy empty gear oil bottles whatever they are???

 

[GlenM]

where do you buy empty gear oil bottles whatever they are???

Be creative....WalMart has empty Ketchup, Mustard squeeze bottles, sometimes they sell squeeze bottles back in the mop and broom section.

 

[stihlfarmer]

I don't see why you couldn't buy a quart of heavy gear oil and mix it with a partial gallon of bar oil then tada!!!!!!! you have an empty quart bottle

 

[spacemule]

But, it you're having trouble hitting the hole in the saw, aren't you going to have trouble hitting the hole on the gear oil bottle?

Might help to hold the tip real close and guide it in, using your fingers to feel for the hole. As others have said, it will slide in better if you preheat it.

 

[striperswaper]

Be creative....WalMart has empty Ketchup, Mustard squeeze bottles, sometimes they sell squeeze bottles back in the mop and broom section.

that section sounds alittle too kinky for my tastes...

 

[Dale]

I'm thinking that on a morning like the one we have here today, 5 degrees, using any kind of squeeze bottle would be a very time consuming proposition.