Anyone know if the NE 346 uses a standard bearing that would be available aftermarket? Do the originals use steel of plastic cages?
346 Crank Bearings
- Thread starter blsnelling
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wigglesworth
Booned
Uh oh....did your beloved 346XP take a crap?? :hmm3grin2orange:
andrethegiant70
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hi, Brad.... i can't be sure since I have not taken apart a 346.. but all the Huskies I've split have been standard bearings. I buy mine locally for about $12 apiece. I think you've got a good shot at it.
BTW, the Stihl bearings for that 026 were about $35 apiece at the dealer. WOW! They were a few bucks less on Fleabay.
BTW, the Stihl bearings for that 026 were about $35 apiece at the dealer. WOW! They were a few bucks less on Fleabay.
Anyone have the standard bearing PNs or size? I don't have a saw apart here to check.
Anyone?
andrethegiant70
Addicted to ArboristSite
Bump... dang... no one's rebuilt one of these? They must be spectacular!
SkippyKtm
The Lorax, my FIL rip...
I have a 346 parts saw laying around and I got the PTO side bearing Dimensions: 35mm 15mm 12mm. Its similar in size to a 6202 but the 6202 is only 11mm wide. It appears that the flywheel side is the same bearing, but I cant be positive without pulling the crank. This saw is the pre NE 42mm saw, if that makes any difference.
I have a 346 parts saw laying around and I got the PTO side bearing Dimensions: 35mm 15mm 12mm. Its similar in size to a 6202 but the 6202 is only 11mm wide. It appears that the flywheel side is the same bearing, but I cant be positive without pulling the crank. This saw is the pre NE 42mm saw, if that makes any difference.
Thanks for the info. Metal or plastic cages?
I have a 346 parts saw laying around and I got the PTO side bearing Dimensions: 35mm 15mm 12mm. Its similar in size to a 6202 but the 6202 is only 11mm wide. It appears that the flywheel side is the same bearing, but I cant be positive without pulling the crank. This saw is the pre NE 42mm saw, if that makes any difference.
I just checked the IPLs, and the OE and NE 346s use the same crank bearings. The left and right bearings have different PNs. The flywheel side is a 6202 C3.
SugCutter
ArboristSite Member
346 Crank Bearing
Hey Brad,
6202-C3 Clearance Open/w steel cage should work for the Ignition side.
SKF; FAG; NSK; NTN; all good bearing MFG choices.
PTO is a different part # looks like it may have a nylon cage.
Chaisawr has both in stock.
Sug
Hey Brad,
6202-C3 Clearance Open/w steel cage should work for the Ignition side.
SKF; FAG; NSK; NTN; all good bearing MFG choices.
PTO is a different part # looks like it may have a nylon cage.
Chaisawr has both in stock.
Sug
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I'm actually looking for bearings that have a plastic cage.
SkippyKtm
The Lorax, my FIL rip...
I'm finding 15x35x12.7 bearings, but not x12 wide.
SkippyKtm
The Lorax, my FIL rip...
When I measure, (I just checked it again to be sure) the width is .471. Which converts to 11.9634mm.
Thanks for double checking.
Terry Syd
Addicted to ArboristSite
Special bearings?
So what's the verdict? Are the Husky main bearings a special part for Husky?
I'm interested as I want to swap out my main bearings for some shielded bearings to bump up the primary compression. If the bearings aren't off the shelf bearings I may have a problem finding something to fit.
I see that the 6202 is listed in catalogs as being 11mm wide, not 12mm. That bearing appears to be the closest fit, or is there another series I am not aware of?
Hmm, I see that Bailey's listed a sealed bearing for the 350. I wonder if that will work in my 450.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=HVP+503+93+23+02&catID=391
So what's the verdict? Are the Husky main bearings a special part for Husky?
I'm interested as I want to swap out my main bearings for some shielded bearings to bump up the primary compression. If the bearings aren't off the shelf bearings I may have a problem finding something to fit.
I see that the 6202 is listed in catalogs as being 11mm wide, not 12mm. That bearing appears to be the closest fit, or is there another series I am not aware of?
Hmm, I see that Bailey's listed a sealed bearing for the 350. I wonder if that will work in my 450.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=HVP+503+93+23+02&catID=391
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Saw Dr.
Junk Collector
Hmmmmm. No saw apart and he wants plastic cages only. Couldn't be expermentin' with ceramics could we?
vw_motorsports
ArboristSite Guru
I recently rebuilt a non NE-346xp, and it had plastic cages. I took the bearings to a bearing supply house and they both cross-referenced to FAG 6202.c3. I specifically wanted metal cages. The two saws that I've seen with cage failure had plastic cages, a husky 350 and a stihl 180. I was told most c-3 bearings are good to 14-15k rpms. If you want to upgrade the bearing I was told it would cost 4x's more for a bearing with tighter tolerances, i.e. ceramic.
Since then I've been using c3 bearings with the seal on the outboard bearing side. I pack the the space between the the bearing seal and the crankshaft seal with a high grade/ high temp bearing grease. I don't race saws so reliability has precedence. I don't want any air leaks. The two saws that's I've done with the new bearings w/lip seal both run very smooth and I have yet to see any grease coming out from the crank seals so the pressure from the crankcase is not blowing by the bearing lip seal.
I wouldn't recommend this setup for a race saw as there is friction from the contact seals and the Kluber grease. I can feel it when you turn the crankshaft by hand, no piston or cylinder installed, so I would assume the unloaded rpm could be reduced. With the saw running I couldn't tell a difference though.
Since then I've been using c3 bearings with the seal on the outboard bearing side. I pack the the space between the the bearing seal and the crankshaft seal with a high grade/ high temp bearing grease. I don't race saws so reliability has precedence. I don't want any air leaks. The two saws that's I've done with the new bearings w/lip seal both run very smooth and I have yet to see any grease coming out from the crank seals so the pressure from the crankcase is not blowing by the bearing lip seal.
I wouldn't recommend this setup for a race saw as there is friction from the contact seals and the Kluber grease. I can feel it when you turn the crankshaft by hand, no piston or cylinder installed, so I would assume the unloaded rpm could be reduced. With the saw running I couldn't tell a difference though.
