Husky Carb Icing?

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Rounder

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I've bought two new Huskys recently (576&372xt). Both saws have had the same issue of idling lean when on their side, dying occasionally. No airleaks, multiple carbs fitted.....can't figure it out. (Various batches of gas have even been tried)

The one common denominator has been the fact that it's been damn cold lately.
Could carb icing be the issue here? That's the last thing I can possibly think of.

Thanks in advance - Sam
 
Rounder

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i may be wrong. But if i remember right that is a bad crank seal. Correct me if i am wrong

You are correct-
That was our first thought, but both saws pass pressure/vac test. Even replaced the seals and gaskets on the 576 just to be double sure.....they're both tight. - Sam
 
Burvol

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You are correct-
That was our first thought, but both saws pass pressure/vac test. Even replaced the seals and gaskets on the 576 just to be double sure.....they're both tight. - Sam

You probably have your answer- icing. Right? If you are tight, what else is the problem? How long are they warming up? Have you noticed what ethonol does in the cold?
 
Rounder

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You probably have your answer- icing. Right? If you are tight, what else is the problem? How long are they warming up? Have you noticed what ethonol does in the cold?

Always run non-oxy....just never had a carb icing issue, so not sure how the issue typically presents itself. Pretty much shooting in the dark at this point.
 
ironman_gq

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what happens is that ice forms just behind the throttle plate and starts to block off the airflow (only happens at idle) and the engine will die. Does your saw have a warm air shutter, that would eliminate carb icing as the problem. Also usually only happens when its cold and humid cause the ice is caused by water condensing out of the air in the carb throat.
 
Burvol

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I always use to warm my Huskys up with the handle down, for ten minutes when starting out, even leaving them run when re-fueling on really cold days, 10 or less. Ah, frozen log cutting, a whole new game. Hope you get it figured out Sam.

what about a vent issue? Moisture freezing in there, not allowing gas to fully come through?
 
Rounder

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I always use to warm my Huskys up with the handle down, for ten minutes when starting out, even leaving them run when re-fueling on really cold days, 10 or less. Ah, frozen log cutting, a whole new game. Hope you get it figured out Sam.

what about a vent issue? Moisture freezing in there, not allowing gas to fully come through?

Thanks Burvol, the vent is another possibility I hadn't thought of. It has been cold and humid here lately. Damn saws are driving me and the guys at the shop up the wall.

I'll bet you know how frustrating it is to be working out of town in camp with a saw that refuses to cooperate. Not fun - take care - Sam
 
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what happens is that ice forms just behind the throttle plate and starts to block off the airflow (only happens at idle) and the engine will die. Does your saw have a warm air shutter, that would eliminate carb icing as the problem. Also usually only happens when its cold and humid cause the ice is caused by water condensing out of the air in the carb throat.

Thanks, the cold weather flywheel plates are supposed to be on their way, the shop was out at the moment. We'll see, kind of at the end of the road for other options....I guess I could throw them in the river....or even better save them for boat anchors - Sam
 
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usually what causes a saw to change rpm's on it's side is a incorrect inlet needle arm hight adjustment. Not enough fuel in the metering chamber will cause the saw to run erattically at different angles. This info came from Raymond Mitchell Of Husqvarna, he is the head tech. Try raising the metering lever by .05" and see what happens.
 
Tzed250

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.

Carburetor icing happens under a certain set of conditions. This is a guide:

attachment.php




.
 
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Thanks, the cold weather flywheel plates are supposed to be on their way, the shop was out at the moment. We'll see, kind of at the end of the road for other options....I guess I could throw them in the river....or even better save them for boat anchors - Sam

No, look at the plastic housing that separates the carb from the cylinder. There are places which allows a shutter or piece of plastic to be flipped open or closed to allow hot engine air into the carb enclosure to prevent just this thing. In a pinch just take a knife and cut an opening, doesn't have to be big, maybe 1/2" wide. Then when temps warm up, tape over it.
 
Rounder

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usually what causes a saw to change rpm's on it's side is a incorrect inlet needle arm hight adjustment. Not enough fuel in the metering chamber will cause the saw to run erattically at different angles. This info came from Raymond Mitchell Of Husqvarna, he is the head tech. Try raising the metering lever by .05" and see what happens.

I will give it a shot in the AM pard....tried it with the 576 to no avail. But why not with the 372xt.......nothing to loose. Very frustrating....I don't shell out on new saws to #### with them. But here I am, lol (I do appreciate the suggestions!). Story of my life, saws in a truck are a sign of poverty, right? - Sam
 
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I will give it a shot in the AM pard....tried it with the 576 to no avail. But why not with the 372xt.......nothing to loose. Very frustrating....I don't shell out on new saws to #### with them. But here I am, lol (I do appreciate the suggestions!). Story of my life, saws in a truck are a sign of poverty, right? - Sam

98.9% of new saw problems are carb related, This is what I was told at a husky tech meeting and by the head tech in sweeden!!!
Carbs nowadays are total crap. At the shop I checked how many carbs I replaced this last year on new saws, It is quite alarming so I wont go into detail:deadhorse:
 
Rounder

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98.9% of new saw problems are carb related, This is what I was told at a husky tech meeting and by the head tech in sweeden!!!
Carbs nowadays are total crap. At the shop I checked how many carbs I replaced this last year on new saws, It is quite alarming so I wont go into detail:deadhorse:

Agreed - had similar issues with Stihl. Ain't a brand thing - it is a carb thing.....if icing is not the issue in this particular case......I'll know more in the AM. I've always felt that it's tough to properly analyze a new saw at this time of year...usually try and avoid it. No way around it this go round though - Sam
 
gtread

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Husky Carb Icing

Was out cutting Friday 15 above zero and deep snow, had along my 350,353, and 346 husky's lots of wood on the ground covered with snow.
After a few hours of cutting my 350 and 353 both began to stick at full throttle, had to shut them down.
When I got home I took the cover off while still frozen and discovered both had ice around throttle linkage making them stick.
I might add both saws were very dirty, so I used carb cleaner and air gun to thoroughly clean and light oil, also both had the air door open.
The saw blows snow into the carb compartment and it melts, and refreezes causing problems.
I ordered winter kits for the 353 and the 346 from Baileys in hope of solving this problem.
Otherwise I love my Husky's, great saws.
Thank you Mr Troll for your exert advise on Husky saw's. I wound up with 6 of them.
gtread
 
Rounder

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usually what causes a saw to change rpm's on it's side is a incorrect inlet needle arm hight adjustment. Not enough fuel in the metering chamber will cause the saw to run erattically at different angles. This info came from Raymond Mitchell Of Husqvarna, he is the head tech. Try raising the metering lever by .05" and see what happens.

I think you nailed it. Saw now seems to run much better.
The shop called, found a winter kit. Raising the metering level cured the erratic idle, but it was still randomly dieing. Winter kit seems to have cured that issue.

Thanks to you and Burvol for the advice - Sam
 
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98.9% of new saw problems are carb related, This is what I was told at a husky tech meeting and by the head tech in sweeden!!!
Carbs nowadays are total crap. At the shop I checked how many carbs I replaced this last year on new saws, It is quite alarming so I wont go into detail:deadhorse:

I had to replace the carb on my 385xp. It would not start well and had eratic idling. Put in a carb kit same problem. I should of knew I was in trouble when I removed the cover and the screen was full of metal chips. I installed a new carb and it runs like it never had before.
 
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I doubt you have an icing problems, it's likely a bad carb or two. Sometimes newer saws tend to idle a bit inconstant until they're run a bit. When you rotate the saw around any fuel or oil that has pooled in the case or intake gets picked up, this can also cause idling issues. I recently worked on a 026 that simply would not idle correctly. No air leaks, good fuel, rebuilt carb and the saw simply would not idle correctly. Put a different carb on the saw and it runs perfect.

Sam as long as the saw doesn't lean out in the cut, try running both of them a bit more and see what happens.
 

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