8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
Take that chain to a wire wheel,clean it up, get a 5 gallon pail and soak in some diesel, or use the electrolysis method, battery charger and borax. Search here, Justified is about to start.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Take that chain to a wire wheel,clean it up, get a 5 gallon pail and soak in some diesel, or use the electrolysis method, battery charger and borax. Search here, Justified is about to start.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
The 1-60 will have that removable head, the 1-61 and 62 did as well. The 1-63 has the more modern block.
Yes 80cc
A word of warning though, don't ever buy a 10-10 or any of these type Macs to resell because once you get it you probably won't want to part with it.
cpr
Addicted to ArboristSite
+1 what Randy said. I can't prove it, but I take JJ's word for gospel that the drop-head saw motors share the kart architecture, but not the port timing. The saw blocks are lower rpm, higher torque than the kart ones, but the saw blocks can be made to replicate the kart, not the other way around.
The 44 Series (D44, Super 44, Super 44A) also have removeable heads, and porting more like the kart engines but as CPR noted, tamed somewhat for saw applications.
The 1-40 and 1-60 Series saws share almost all the same engine parts, the 1-50 and 1-51 as well, but the 1-52 and 1-53 went to 87 cc with a 1.5" stroke.
I met a guy today wiith three Mac Kart engines, Mc30, Mc40, & Mc75. The Mc 40 was the least complete of the batch, and did manage to come home with me...
Mark
The 1-40 and 1-60 Series saws share almost all the same engine parts, the 1-50 and 1-51 as well, but the 1-52 and 1-53 went to 87 cc with a 1.5" stroke.
I met a guy today wiith three Mac Kart engines, Mc30, Mc40, & Mc75. The Mc 40 was the least complete of the batch, and did manage to come home with me...
Mark
RandyMac
Stiff Member
Cool Mark!
Whatcha going to do with it?
I have an MC20 shortblock, fresh from a rebuild, thinking of bolting a 1-70 around it.
Whatcha going to do with it?
I have an MC20 shortblock, fresh from a rebuild, thinking of bolting a 1-70 around it.
Not sure just yet. I will try to get it cleaned up and, hopefully find some rings (47767) and see if it will run again.
Maybe sneak it into vintage saw frame just for fun...
Mark
Maybe sneak it into vintage saw frame just for fun...
Mark
tntnt44
ArboristSite Lurker
mac 610 no spark
Hi all i have a mac 610 I picked up , has no spark , had a parts saw with bad barrel but good spark so moved the coil over to saw that I want to run and no spark , unplugged ignition switch ,magnets are good in flywheel is there some thing else to look for ,spark was good on parts saw ,set gap .007 which was what parts saw was set at, any ideas thanks Gil
Hi all i have a mac 610 I picked up , has no spark , had a parts saw with bad barrel but good spark so moved the coil over to saw that I want to run and no spark , unplugged ignition switch ,magnets are good in flywheel is there some thing else to look for ,spark was good on parts saw ,set gap .007 which was what parts saw was set at, any ideas thanks Gil
tnt - make sure the ignition switch wire is not grounded out some where, and insure that the ground lead from the coil is in fact securely grounded.
Other than that there really isn't anything that can go wrong. Even if the key is sheared or missing there should be a spark, just not at the right time/place.
Mark
Other than that there really isn't anything that can go wrong. Even if the key is sheared or missing there should be a spark, just not at the right time/place.
Mark
OREGONLOGGER
ArboristSite Guru
Well just got home with the saw in it's case with matching bar guard. I opened the case and it was almost new looking with just a few scratches and all stickers in great condition. He stated it has not been started in 10 years or so I like new projects like this in the winter and this old saw looks . Model of saw states Pro 10-10. Thanks for all the great info on the spec's for this saw Mr H. Not the great photo person on this site but I seem to do fine on a email if anyone would like a photo.
stinkbait
Addicted to ArboristSite
Check your PM box for my email. You can send me the pics and I will post them for you.
1375619cm3
ArboristSite Operative
mac 1-51
i was wondering if anyone has got any idea's on my problem.
i have a mac 1-51 and i am trying to get her going again.
saw wont run its got spark, and will run fine as long as fuel is getting dumped in the carb it has a new fuel line from the tank to the carb and i have pulled th efuel filter and tried to get it to run as well as with it in but no change. i have also soaked and cleaned the carb, taken it apart and made sure there was no ubstructions in the carb. the only thing i can think is that it is not getting fuel from the tank to the carb but not sure why its not. i have a ipl thanks to the guys here on this thread and could use the help if anyone's got an idea. thanks in advance.
i was wondering if anyone has got any idea's on my problem.
i have a mac 1-51 and i am trying to get her going again.
saw wont run its got spark, and will run fine as long as fuel is getting dumped in the carb it has a new fuel line from the tank to the carb and i have pulled th efuel filter and tried to get it to run as well as with it in but no change. i have also soaked and cleaned the carb, taken it apart and made sure there was no ubstructions in the carb. the only thing i can think is that it is not getting fuel from the tank to the carb but not sure why its not. i have a ipl thanks to the guys here on this thread and could use the help if anyone's got an idea. thanks in advance.
Check the impulse line to make sure it's open. Not sure how they have it on that saw, could be a separate line or a hole in the carb base gasket. That's what sends the pulses to the diaphragm. Otherwise you might try blowing into the fuel line to see if it's obstructed. I guess you got the carb back together correctly and with new kit. Or you could have missed some dirt when you cleaned the carb.
triumph79
ArboristSite Operative
mucculloch chainsaw
Just bought a mcculloch 35 and the plug wire is broke does anybody know where I can get a new coil for it.
Just bought a mcculloch 35 and the plug wire is broke does anybody know where I can get a new coil for it.
Can it be repaired?
triumph79
ArboristSite Operative
No that wires pretty shot
It would be nice if enough of the spark plug wire on the coil end was good you could possibly get a new wire and splice it into the old one at the coil, use a little epoxy to mold it to the coil..just sure your new one is long enough. You'd have to use regular spark plug wire though, no graphite. Some of the older coils are getting harder to find.
137 - The 1-51 may have a older model Tillotson, or an HL. Either way there's a pretty good chance one or both of the diaphragms are stiff. I have heard of soaking them in brake fluid, or steeping them in water with lemon juice to soften them up again. I know the water/lemon juice will soften them for a while anyway.
Also check the metering needle & seat to make sure it's clear. Sometimes simply priming and starting it a few times will get things going again.
triumph - In theory the spark plug wire will "screw" on to the terminal in the coil and can be replaced. Good theory, but I have a half dozen coils with twisted off wires that I haven't really tried to dig out yet. The 33/35 Series were pretty common, you should be able to find a replacement out there somewhere.
Mark
Also check the metering needle & seat to make sure it's clear. Sometimes simply priming and starting it a few times will get things going again.
triumph - In theory the spark plug wire will "screw" on to the terminal in the coil and can be replaced. Good theory, but I have a half dozen coils with twisted off wires that I haven't really tried to dig out yet. The 33/35 Series were pretty common, you should be able to find a replacement out there somewhere.
Mark
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tntnt44
ArboristSite Lurker
Since you mentioned it, I have a couple of old 10-10 chainsaws that have ugly looking wires as well. I was wondering if the wires are replaceable on them, or would I have to replace the whole works?
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