husqvarna file guide help

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Yes, I did have it on backwards. Sawtroll is right in that it's on a Oregon chain - 72LGX093G. Will this guide not work with this chain? Thanks all for catching me before I destroyed a $30.00 chain.

This should be on correctly now.

guide.jpg
 
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Near as I can tell, the only difference between the 95VP and VPX is the style of the bumper link. The VPX bumper doesn't appear until it makes the turn in the bar. I can't tell any difference in hardness when filing.

When using the roller guide, clean out the gullet before you start as you want the file to ride on the rollers and not any metal below it. Apply equal pressure to both rollers. If you put more pressure on the front roller you will increase the cutting angle of the top plate, the opposite occurs if you put most of the pressure on the rear roller. Once you get the hang of it, the roller guide will put a top quality edge and a progressive raker depth on your chain in just a few minutes.
 
I think this is the best file guide out there and wish it was available for every sawchain from the big ones !!(

I have husky roller guides for .404 so how big are you talking 3/4"? Or do you mean the big saw chain makers? I have run a flat file on the inside of the guides to get them to seat easier on the chain. I love those little guys nice consistent results every time until the rollers wear out.
 
I have a better solution for you,buy one of these Bailey's - Granberg File-N-Joint Precision Filing Guide

This filing guide will give you a professional filing job. I've seen saws filed with those roller guides and have tried them myself and I have yet to see one that will cut with a properly free hand filed one or one filed with the one I've recommended. The Granberg File N Joint is the only filing guide I've seen that will give the user a pro filing job, anyone can file a saw properly with one of these.
 
All husky rollerguides should have The HIGH end of the roller guide pointing at the power head or the file will sit to high, there are also arrows stamped in the aluminium part of the guide and they must point in the direction the chain runs !!!
(

The picture guide on the back of the package shows the exact opposite. Doesn't say high side or low side, but it does show the raker guide as pointing away from the powerhead, not towards it. Just bought my guide kit yesterday from TSC, settled it on the bar last night the way they showed and thought it seemed wrong...so I went to bed without wrecking my nice new, single use chain.
 
I agree about the Granberg. It is especially clever in the way it will match all the cutters to the same length. Doing that by hand requires a constant measuring and re-measuring with a calipers, the Granberg does it automatically for each cutter.

However, it is difficult to get a Granberg in your pocket to take with you in the field.

After about 4-5 sharpenings with the roller guides, there will be variations in the lengths of the cutters. At that point, a Granberg will clean up the lengths and angles. However, it does not provide a progressive raker depth, for that you have to go back to the roller guide raker plate.

It seems to me that the possession of both the roller guide and the Granberg provide a complete filing system for all situations.
 
I don't know but I have been using the roller guides for the past eleven years or so and have never had an issue with the cutters being all out of whack. My chains cut and pull a big chip and that's all I care about. There is no way I am going to take a caliper and measure each tooth that is a whole level of CAD that is a waste of time to me. If I feel the need to even up the cutters I run them through my grinder maybe once or twice throughout the life of a chain aside from hitting something. If you really feel the need to measure each tooth then by all means go ahead and do so but bare in mind there is more to a well cutting chain than just a sharp edge the rackers need to be dialed into the cutter length, whatever that length is.
 
The picture guide on the back of the package shows the exact opposite. Doesn't say high side or low side, but it does show the raker guide as pointing away from the powerhead, not towards it. Just bought my guide kit yesterday from TSC, settled it on the bar last night the way they showed and thought it seemed wrong...so I went to bed without wrecking my nice new, single use chain.

About the raker guide, pointing one way or another, dosen´t that depend on what side of the chain you are filling?
 
Near as I can tell, the only difference between the 95VP and VPX is the style of the bumper link. The VPX bumper doesn't appear until it makes the turn in the bar. I can't tell any difference in hardness when filing.

Have you tried the 95VPX? What do you think?
 
Yes, but on the instructions it shows the guide oriented in the reverse from what the photos above show.
 
I think the roller guide is the best system, far better than the stihl system, you mount on the file!
And please no brand war :msp_wink:
 
Still to high

Back to my original post.. I have tried every which way to make that guide work and the file still is to high on rollers.
I have the original H80 chain on my 455 Rancher and the kit I bought said that it was for that chain.

What could i be missing here. This is the first time I have ever tried sharpening my own chain and it sure isn't going well. Chain is super dull now.

Any more help would be appreciated.

I tried putting high side of guage toward motor nut eith way it will not go all the way down in it's groove.
 
Then my suggestion would be to take a flat file, a raker file, and widen the slot that the cain fits in. You don't have to take much off but it will help when I had that problem it was a slight bend in the forming process that was holding up the works. If that does not work then I am not sure what is going on without pics. The guide has arrows stamped on the roller and those should be pointing to the tip of the bar no matter what the instructions say, it could be a typo. Also is the chain clean? If not it could be crud messing you up.
 
stupid

Well iam feeling pretty stupid right now. Just went out and tried it again and added a little extra pressure to the high side slots and it snapped right in. Now if i haven't messed up the chain to bad i will try and sharpen tomorrow! Like I said I am new to this.
I will let you know how I do.

Thanks for the help
 
Re 95VPX - out of the box it is mediocre. You need to dress up the cutter with the roller guide and set your cutting angle. I still haven't done a proper comparison of sharpened VP to VPX, but it appears it 'may' be a tad faster than VP.

Any guide (Stihl or otherwise) that attaches the file to a plate and then lays on the cutter will not give a progressive hook to the cutter. However, the roller guide can incorporate a 10 degree down angle for the file where appropriate.
 
Husqvarna Chain Sharpening Roller Guide

I also had trouble getting the Husky 3/8" guide to fit. I kept trying different directions and positions until when it snapped in place it looked like the file was going to be the right height. Everything went well after that and now I'm very well pleased.

The guide only assures the 10 degree angle. The 30 degree angle will have to be assured by sight. But I have no problem with that.

The instructions are nothing but a couple vague pictures. You had best know a little bit about sharpening chains before you get a roller guide.
 
Same problem

I have a 346XP with the H30 NK chain and bought the .325 file kit for PIXEL chain. I also found that the guide holds the file to high to sharpen the chain properly. I filed the slots deeper in the guide and that brought the file down. The guide is supposedly the correct one as it is stamped 0.325 4.8 file and the NK logo in a circle that looks like the top of a rifle shell casing. The owners manual indicates that there is a different .325 file kit for the H25 chisel chain.

I use this type of guide for .375 chain and it works properly.
 
first time

Ok here is the update. Now that i know how to fit guage I tried to sharpen chain for first time. Didnt really know how much pressure to apply while stroking file. Some seemed to slide easy and some a little rough.
I tried saw afterwards and whatever I did made a diff. Saw cut 100 percent better and straighter. I am sure this a learned art.

Throwing bigger chips but not as big as new. Should I sharpen again using more and firmer strikes?

I appreciate any suggestions
 

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