McCulloch Chain Saws

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First off Brad, You out bid me on it.
And i don't bid unless i'm pretty sure.
I'm almost 100% it's a Super 797.
It's to clean to be a franken saw.
The seller has a good rep. I've bought from
him before.
The early Super 797's came with the Tilly
HL103 carb while the later had the SDC setup.
All Supers had yellow top tanks and filter covers.
I think you did good if it is as stated.
I have rebuilt many so i know them quite well.



Lee
 
leeha said:
First off Brad, You out bid me on it.
And i don't bid unless i'm pretty sure.
I'm almost 100% it's a Super 797.
It's to clean to be a franken saw.
The seller has a good rep. I've bought from
him before.
The early Super 797's came with the Tilly
HL103 carb while the later had the SDC setup.
All Supers had yellow top tanks and filter covers.
I think you did good if it is as stated.
I have rebuilt many so i know them quite well.



Lee
Click to expand...

Thanks Lee. That's good to hear. My max bid was only $44 higher than yours.
 
If you feel the need (the need for speed) to build a Kartsaw Brad, your best bet is to start with a junker or just a buncha parts. Unless you want to sacrafice a good deal of power for stock appearance, then you're not going to want to start with a 740/790/795/797 (unless you cut out the center of the lower tank half for a Kart intake setup) anyways. Besides, a complete, intact S-797 in that condition would be a crying shame to butcher. You can get a 125 tank assembly and other bits on feebay (or from many guys here) along with the other saw specific parts needed to build a chainsaw out of a Kart engine. That should be a totaly different subject (from your S-797) in your mind. I have a 790 tank assembly with a broken intake manifold flange that I'm going to put aside just in case I ever stumble upon a 101B engine. I won't feel at all bad about cutting the center and intake out that casting.
 
Last edited:
Eccentric said:
If you feel the need (the need for speed) to build a Kartsaw Brad, your best bet is to start with a junker or just a buncha parts. Unless you want to sacrafice a good deal of power for stock appearance, then you're not going to want to start with a 740/790/795/797 (unless you cut out the center of the lower tank half for a Kart intake setup) anyways. Besides, a complete, intact S-797 in that condition would be a crying shame to butcher. You can get a 125 tank assembly and other bits on feebay (or from many guys here) along with the other saw specific parts needed to build a chainsaw out of a Kart engine. That should be a totaly different subject (from your S-797) in your mind. I have a 790 tank assembly with a broken intake manifold flange that I'm going to put aside just in case I ever stumble upon a 101B engine. I won't feel at all bad about cutting the center and intake out that casting.
Click to expand...

Definately makes sense, and what I expected to hear. Hopefully I'll hear back soon with the SN and what carb's on it.
 
blsnelling said:
Are these the numbers we're looking for, 6625 10629 13. He wasn't sure on the carb, but thought it was a Tilly. It's already boxed up or he would check.
Click to expand...

I don't have a Super 797 IPL. My Cylinders/Pistons/Rings charts only list block numbers for standard 797's, even though they list the S-797 (along with the standard 797) on the front page. A regular 797 block # is 67420. Mind you, we've seen many McCulloch saws that don't have a crankcase number stamped on them. My 790 is one of those. Seems to happen quite a bit with Super 250 saws too.
 
Brad - My Super 797 has thick rings, I believe the standard 797 has thin rings. You would think it was the other way 'round but the idea with the thick rings was to provide a bit more life.

Bergman 501 - Just measure the shaft and the bore the seal fits in, any competent bearing supplier should be able to match you up. Make sure to specify your application so they can get an appropriate seal for the speeds.

Tomcurtis - Sunburst yellow (Rustoleum) is close, but a bit darker/more orange. The information below came from Brad Snelling a while back but should still be good:

- AutoZone DE1642 yellow high temp engine enamel
- Engine yellow: Krylon DE1642 Daytona Yellow, 500 F
- Dupli-Color Engine Enamel in Daytona Yellow (#DE1642)
- Rust-Oleum Sunburst Yellow (7747)

I know there are a couple of Valspar #'s that are very close as well but I don't have easy access to that information right now.

I have also found a few hardware store brands of old implement yellow that are very close.

One of the problems with old McCulloch saws is the yellow did change over time, both from exposure/etc. and the fact that the factory changed shades. Your best bet is to start from scratch and repaint the entire saw, then keep it away from the others so no one can compare them side by side.

Mark
 
Mark is correct Brad, The Super 797's have thick rings
while the regular 797's have thin rings. Also the later Super's
don't have the boost port cover. Since yours has the 66251
on the block i would bet yours will have the boost port cover.
All the regular 797's have the flatback carb. Early Supers have
the Tilly HL and later ones have the SDC setup.
Either way, All 797's are strong runners IMHO. Just the Supers
are more dependable without the flatback carb.




Lee
 
leeha said:
Mark is correct Brad, The Super 797's have thick rings
while the regular 797's have thin rings. Also the later Super's
don't have the boost port cover. Since yours has the 66251
on the block i would bet yours will have the boost port cover.
All the regular 797's have the flatback carb. Early Supers have
the Tilly HL and later ones have the SDC setup.
Either way, All 797's are strong runners IMHO. Just the Supers
are more dependable without the flatback carb.




Lee
Click to expand...
Thanks Lee. Good info. The seller thought mine had aTilly HL, but wasn't sure since it was already boxed up. That would be nice.
 
Last edited:
RandyMac said:
You finally got a Man's chainsaw Brad.

Once you go yellow and black, you won't go back.:hmm3grin2orange:
Click to expand...

This makes my 3rd Mac. I have a 1-52 and a super clean PM700. But something like this 797 takes it to another level. I don't even have this one yet, and I'm already wanting to build a cart saw, lol. Its just a lot more fun for me to build a saw than it is to simply buy one. I'm also intrigued by all the different custom stuff you can do to them. But I've got a lot of learning to do first. Thankfully, guys like yourself are around to steer me right:clap:
 
blsnelling said:
This makes my 3rd Mac. I have a 1-52 and a super clean PM700. But something like this 797 takes it to another level. I don't even have this one yet, and I'm already wanting to build a cart saw, lol. Its just a lot more fun for me to build a saw than it is to simply buy one. I'm also intrigued by all the different custom stuff you can do to them. But I've got a lot of learning to do first. Thankfully, guys like yourself are around to steer me right:clap:
Click to expand...

Did you recently buy that PM 700 on eBay?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
10-10 Auto

Used my 10-10 Auto again yesterday. Although the hydro-locking problem appears to be fixed it completely stopped oiling yesterday. Can I pour out the bar oil and put something else in it to maybe to get it oiling? Maybe bar oil is just too thick.
 
briantutt said:
Used my 10-10 Auto again yesterday. Although the hydro-locking problem appears to be fixed it completely stopped oiling yesterday. Can I pour out the bar oil and put something else in it to maybe to get it oiling? Maybe bar oil is just too thick.
Click to expand...

It's very possible the bar oil is too cold and won't flow. Try some 5W motor to check for flow, I wouldn't cut with that thin oil though. It wouldn't lube the bar properly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
joeymt33 said:
Did you recently buy that PM 700 on eBay?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

No, it was given to me a couple years ago by a generous forum member.

472878374_mtikz-M.jpg
 

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