WidowMaker1
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was pretty shore the new 880's where limited to 12K in OZ? ... I know a New stock 3120XP (Aussie Model / black coil ) is limited to 12K ...
New MS880 looks like bad news for modder's
- Thread starter Beer Gut
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splitpost
Nothing but 32:1
doesn't look like it
WidowMaker1
Addicted to ArboristSite
interesting !! is it maybe a states EPA model ?? I'm guessing its the stainless steel muffler model ?
splitpost
Nothing but 32:1
Yes its the new model and it was bought at our local stihl shop,and yes it looks like it may be according to the sticker it says that it complies with US EPA Regs bla bla bla ,jeez in hope that they are the only ones stihl bring in to OZ , i might have to go and crack some heads over it if its not the right one ,not to mention being ripped off
WidowMaker1
Addicted to ArboristSite
I hear you mate , id be pissed right off getting stiffed and undercut with a EPA model, considering there's is no EPA in OZ yet! where not over populated or polluted like the Northern hemisphere, we don't need babying yet brother.
jeepyfz450
Addicted to ArboristSite
hey hey hey thats not nice.......... but it is true.
Beer Gut
A Fine Pilsner
I will go pull it apart in a bit and get that number for you, I didn't WOT the heck out of it when I tached because that was the first time the saw ever ran even though I was cutting a bit.. I will tach the saw again soon also and make sure I'm not just blowing smoke. But right now that's what I remember things being at..
Beer Gut
A Fine Pilsner
Part# is 1124 1302 A
Tached it again max reading after a few cuts was 11,600 and saw was breaking up, but saw was a lot hotter last time and I swear I saw 12K on the tach, after pm's with Brad I rechecked the tach it has been reset since but it was 12 something stored in it and I try to reset every time so unless I'm confused which I am often that was the reading from that saw.. I should state though that I am having some trouble lining up the Tach because it will drop out to 0 while reading with slight movement of my hand, and if I get to close to this saw it goes haywire and gives me a reading that dosn't make sense. Don't have trouble with my other saws though only on this one.. My manual also says 11K so my guess is I'm a dufuss we have the same saw and I'm not getting accurate measurements.. Or its possible there could be a slight variation in the coils from production and each one performs differently some a little higher and some lower they would have a spec. range to fall in.. I don't fully understand how the rev limit works and if its possible from a mass production standpoint to set each one to kill a saw at exactly 11K..
Tached it again max reading after a few cuts was 11,600 and saw was breaking up, but saw was a lot hotter last time and I swear I saw 12K on the tach, after pm's with Brad I rechecked the tach it has been reset since but it was 12 something stored in it and I try to reset every time so unless I'm confused which I am often that was the reading from that saw.. I should state though that I am having some trouble lining up the Tach because it will drop out to 0 while reading with slight movement of my hand, and if I get to close to this saw it goes haywire and gives me a reading that dosn't make sense. Don't have trouble with my other saws though only on this one.. My manual also says 11K so my guess is I'm a dufuss we have the same saw and I'm not getting accurate measurements.. Or its possible there could be a slight variation in the coils from production and each one performs differently some a little higher and some lower they would have a spec. range to fall in.. I don't fully understand how the rev limit works and if its possible from a mass production standpoint to set each one to kill a saw at exactly 11K..
When it goes haywire and doesn't make sense, that means you're into the rev limiter.
Do you have someone that could make a video while you run the saw? Hold the tach in your left hand, between your thumb and index finger with your hand around the handle. Point it towards the spark plug. It should read fine. Put the bar on the wood. Get the chain moving. Slowly give it more throttle. Where the RPMs stop rising smoothly and goes haywire is where the rev limiter is.
Tree Sling'r
Addicted to ArboristSite
[video=youtube;J3dSbThaL30]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3dSbThaL30[/video]
088 coil, 084 carb and woods port I did a few years back.
088 coil, 084 carb and woods port I did a few years back.
zogger
Tree Freak
Well, I was a little disappointed with the video. Not knocking it being posted, just not what I expected. That was baby wood I would be cutting with my oregon battery saw or something, I thought it was going to be something worthy of those saws.
With that said, the husky sounded really rough, the stihl seemed smoother by far. Is that normal for those big huskies like that?
note: I have zero experience with any really large displacement saws like that, just think of them as "worktrucks" that go slow but can haul a lot of weight as opposed to "sportscars" that can go fast carrying a briefcase and an iphone.
As to rev limited or not, I thought the entire purpose of those large saws was to have torque to spare to just keep pulling a lotta chain, buried, not high rpms "cookie cutting" with a teeny bar. But, can't tell in that selection of vid, there must be another comparison out there in like four foot diameter wood, or ripping a long big log in a mill, something like that.
With that said, the husky sounded really rough, the stihl seemed smoother by far. Is that normal for those big huskies like that?
note: I have zero experience with any really large displacement saws like that, just think of them as "worktrucks" that go slow but can haul a lot of weight as opposed to "sportscars" that can go fast carrying a briefcase and an iphone.
As to rev limited or not, I thought the entire purpose of those large saws was to have torque to spare to just keep pulling a lotta chain, buried, not high rpms "cookie cutting" with a teeny bar. But, can't tell in that selection of vid, there must be another comparison out there in like four foot diameter wood, or ripping a long big log in a mill, something like that.
Here's another example of what a ported 880 can run like in Oak.
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/kS1uD7L7d7U?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Here's my 084 pulling 9-pin rim on a 50" bar buried in Oak.
<iframe width="640" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/2rzfrIJAESc?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/kS1uD7L7d7U?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Here's my 084 pulling 9-pin rim on a 50" bar buried in Oak.
<iframe width="640" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/2rzfrIJAESc?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Tree Sling'r
Addicted to ArboristSite
Baby wood, high RPM cookie cutter with a tenny bar?
zogger
Tree Freak
Yaaa! That's more like it! La Bomba, real monstah wood! Those saws sounded pretty good. now, which has more oomph "stock" in wood like that, 3120 or 880?
I'm filing away info like this for like when I hit the lottery...
Beer Gut
A Fine Pilsner
Yes to video was hoping to do this during the holiday break, with tach in hand the saw is not smooth not the normal rev up and 4 stroke sound like other saws definatly breaking up actually paying better attention it seems to rev up and down really fast at WOT that must be the saw trying to climb and then being cut off by coil.
Smooth sound seems to stop even before 11K with smooth slow throttle like you posted, and the higher readings are all over the place and none are near 12K and this is not what I seem to remember experiencing Sat. and was all excited about it.
Is all this WOT ok for the new saw?
zogger
Tree Freak
Ya, I didn't see the point on those size saws being tested in small diameter wood, that's all. It's not a real world test at all, near as I figger. Now there probably is a point, I was just not understanding the relevance. The vids Brad posted are more what I would call real world relevance, work saws being used in the size wood they were designed for.
It's really not a huge deal either one way or the other, just didn't consider whatever rpms were being observed to being relevant to what the saws could really *do* with whatever rpms they have with these "limited" coils. To me- a rough analogy here- it was like comparing the hauling characteristics of two new big dually pickups carrying a few sacks of feed in the back. See what I am saying now?
I just wonder, stock to stock, as shipped, which of the big two saw companies got the most saw, with the most real world work that can be done.
I guess when you "win the lottery" you will buy both and let us know.
Dennis Cahoon
Addicted to ArboristSite
zogger
Tree Freak
Well, I am not trying to put anything down or anything, just was surprised at the very top first vid posted, wasn't what I expected at all and really didn't understand the relevance. I still don't, other than hearing a high speed miss or something, which might or might not be present once it was cutting in large robust wood..if it was an issue or not.
I'll butt out, looking for working chainsaw info, not race saw stuff or that sort of discussion, have no interest in motorsports racing of any kind, cars, trucks, atvs, saws, boats..just never cared for that.
I fully understand the concept of woodsporting and so on, but I didn't understand what a test cut with giant saws in relatively teeny wood was all about, and that was it. I was under-my fault, reading comprehension fail I guess- that it was going to be a vid of two large stock saws cutting against each other in "real world" wood, something they would normally be used on. And really, that's it..no more, no less.
Unsubscribing.
