new to me 036 adventure

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flatsfisher

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hello. resident of the mid florida gulf coast here. last year we had a very rainy summer, and the back of my property was flooded for about 8 or 9 months.
at the lowest spot, the almost 4-foot-high wood fence between properties was under water. I still have a small amount of standing water and summer is well under way again. as a result, I now have 22 dead and falling apart oak trees.

the little husky 340 I've had for the last 20 years or so has been a great saw. very reliable, always starts right up even when I've ignored it for a while (no ethanol used and I dump the fuel when I know it will sit). for its low hp, it's actually a zippy little saw. I used it last week and dropped the 3 smallest dead trees, cleaned them up. burned the branches and stacked some fire wood. then I decided that the 340 isn't up to the rest of the task. most of the remaining trees I have to remove are 20 to 24" and about 75 to 80 feet tall. I know that isn't huge (I grew up and lived in oregon until I was in my 20's) but they look big to me lol.

I wanted a little bit bigger saw (not a huge one as I'm 69 years old). I like quality old tools and found an 036 on craig's. drove about an hour to check it out. seller was an older guy and didn't come across as a guy who would be using a chainsaw. he said he bought it 10 years ago to cut down one tree and it had sat in the case since then. he had a receipt from Everglades Power Equipment dated 5/22/22 where they had worked on the saw to get it running again. fresh fuel, new fuel line and new tank vent it said. the saw started right up, idled nicely but didn't rev cleanly at high rpm. I took the muffler off and the piston and cylinder walls looked new. I gave him 300 bucks and drove home. I know that's a lot for a 24 year old saw but I liked it and figured I could tune it to run clean.

I checked it over the next morning and sharpened and adjusted the chain and when I was cutting some 12" oak into lengths the saw had very little power. I raced motocross most of my life and still ride in the woods so I'm pretty good at tuning 2 strokes and have rebuilt many. I still have 5 bikes in my garage and they're all 2 strokes. I could not get this saw to run right. I adjusted the low jet first to get a snappy trigger response with a good idle but could not get the high jet to make the saw rev high enough or cleanly. when I turned the idle screw in way too far the saw seemed to have a lot more power but ran worse and would not idle. when I went back to the recommended settings it would idle all day but power was weak and it would break up at high rpm.

I downloaded the Stihl owner's manual and service manual and read through them. one strange thing is the service manual says to turn both high and low adjustment screws out 1 turn but on the saw it says H out 3/4 turn and L out 1/4 turn. neither of those settings improved things.
PXL_20220605_174855053.jpg

so. after doing a bunch of reading I did some disassembly. so much easier than a dirtbike. love it. the cylinder looks new and does not appear to have any markings on it. I can't really see if there are any markings on the base next to the flywheel as both of my dirtbike flywheel pullers are too big. I ordered a puller and it should bee here friday. the piston has no carbon on top. the carb is a stock Zama and says Stihl on the bottom. at this point I believe that the cylinder and piston are relatively new aftermarket. I called the PO and he seemed surprised and said it must have been done before he bought the saw 10 years ago and he only used it once. who knows.
6-8-22 3.jpg6-8-22 4.jpg6-8-22 5.jpg6-8-22 6.jpgPXL_20220604_205507207.jpg

compression is at 160 psi.
PXL_20220606_200508939.jpg


will be doing pressure and vacuum tests in a day or so as having to screw the idle screw way in makes me suspect the crank seals. I ordered the following parts: gasket set with crank seals, carb kit, impulse line, flywheel puller, air filter and NGK plug.

6-8-22 2.jpg6-8-22.jpg

any thoughts, ideas or advice you might have on this will be welcome. sorry about the manuscript I just wrote. got carried away. I love 2 strokes.

PXL_20220604_213231329.jpg
 
Those 036s are my favorite mid sized saw, perform way above their weight class. That being said, yours having no power is strange. I am guessing the you already checked the muffler for obstructions? Next thing after that I would kit the carb, paying attention to the filter screen on the pump side of the carb.. the seals don't seem like the culprit, it wouldn't idle proper if they were in my opinion, FWIW. I'm sure someone will be along that has different ideas but looks like you will have a great saw when you solve the issue.
 
I was thinking the same about it idling with a seal leak. hoping its just the carb or plug but it looks like a new bosch plug.
Those 036s are my favorite mid sized saw, perform way above their weight class. That being said, yours having no power is strange. I am guessing the you already checked the muffler for obstructions? Next thing after that I would kit the carb, paying attention to the filter screen on the pump side of the carb.. the seals don't seem like the culprit, it wouldn't idle proper if they were in my opinion, FWIW. I'm sure someone will be along that has different ideas but looks like you will have a great saw when you solve the issue.
 
I would take the fuel filter off first and try running it, just to rule out plugged filter. Even though new. Make sure fuel line isn't kinked
I will check that and actually had ordered a fuel line and filter before I read the last part of the service ticket where they replaced the fuel line.
 
Clean out the high speed jet passage and both needle ports for L and H.
If your going to do the mods you'll find dozens of threads exist across several forums.

More than likely it will never make great power with port timing numbers in most of those aftermarket cylinders as produced. The wrist pin bearings are weak, the wrist pin clips aren't worth using and the rings are questionable most times. The pistons carry their own risk and could be evaluated on a case by case basis. None will ever fit as well or be as strong as an OEM or custom offering. Meteor is a good budget choice piston kit here. Knowing those things you can make an educated guess how your build needs to proceed. This a clear case of you get what your educated about to fit your budget. Moving the timing in a well designed port is where the magic happens.
Enjoy
 
Clean out the high speed jet passage and both needle ports for L and H.
If your going to do the mods you'll find dozens of threads exist across several forums.

More than likely it will never make great power with port timing numbers in most of those aftermarket cylinders as produced. The wrist pin bearings are weak, the wrist pin clips aren't worth using and the rings are questionable most times. The pistons carry their own risk and could be evaluated on a case by case basis. None will ever fit as well or be as strong as an OEM or custom offering. Meteor is a good budget choice piston kit here. Knowing those things you can make an educated guess how your build needs to proceed. This a clear case of you get what your educated about to fit your budget. Moving the timing in a well designed port is where the magic happens.
Enjoy
this is what I have read also. I removed the flywheel an hour ago and there are def no markings on the cylinder. the casting on the outside is remarkably clean and free from defects and the exhaust port is clean and not gobby, but that's all I can see without removing the cylinder. some of the AM cylinders I have seen pics of have the most awful casting finishes inside and out.
PXL_20220608_172638070.jpg
 
so I did the pressure and vacuum testing. pumped in 8 psi and it would not hold for more than 7 or 8 seconds. it would also not pull a vacuum at all. I checked everything with soapy water (which is hard to do by yourself when it leaks down that fast). I checked my pump, the hose fittings, the intake and exhaust block off plates with thick rubber that I made, impulse line, both crank seals, base gasket, rubber carb boot and spark plug and no bubbles. last thing I checked was the decompression valve and I got huge bubbles.
PXL_20220608_174307711.jpg

I removed the valve and checked it by itself and it was leaking badly above the nut where the valve is fitted into the nut. it was also spinning in the nut which may or may not be normal. isolated, it leaked down in pretty much the same amount of time.
PXL_20220608_190105285.jpg

I put a plug in the decompression hole and it held pressure and vacuum for several minutes untill I released pressure. same with the vacuum, held for minutes.

PXL_20220608_184246226.jpg
 
so I did the pressure and vacuum testing. pumped in 8 psi and it would not hold for more than 7 or 8 seconds. it would also not pull a vacuum at all. I checked everything with soapy water (which is hard to do by yourself when it leaks down that fast). I checked my pump, the hose fittings, the intake and exhaust block off plates with thick rubber that I made, impulse line, both crank seals, base gasket, rubber carb boot and spark plug and no bubbles. last thing I checked was the decompression valve and I got huge bubbles.
View attachment 994241

I removed the valve and checked it by itself and it was leaking badly above the nut where the valve is fitted into the nut. it was also spinning in the nut which may or may not be normal. isolated, it leaked down in pretty much the same amount of time.
View attachment 994242

I put a plug in the decompression hole and it held pressure and vacuum for several minutes untill I released pressure. same with the vacuum, held for minutes.

View attachment 994247
You'll be cutting in no time! Plug that decomp and off you go!
 
I need to do the carb work. and get another decomp valve. I had to go all over town to find a bolt with the fine threads to plug the decomp hole (I live in a small coastal village). it is way too long, and the head is too big to go all the way down in the hole in the casting. I got it to seal by wrapping the threads with teflon tape and screwing in by hand. I could cut it and grind down the head but that wouldn't be very neat.
 
My go to saw is my 036 pro for anything under 20”. Awesome saw.

Once that decomp issue is fixed, you should be in good standing! At 300 bones, a mint condition 036 is a fair price.

I run a 20” bar with full comp chain on mine and it is delightful. The oiler isn’t fantastic though, which is my only complaint. I tend to only use medium or light oil in it. 7C306F94-5840-4A70-8A51-4337CFC0BB0B.jpeg
 

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I also use the husqvarna decomp in pretty much all my stihls.
I put an 036 equivalent cylinder and a pop up piston in an 034 Stihl and run both a 20" full comp or a 25" with full skip on mine ,it absolutely cuts above its class.
You might want to measure your squish using thin solder , anywhere above .030 is gonna hurt power. I like .025- .017 range for good torque and deleting the base gasket can sometimes get me in the ball park. I use Yamabond 4 for the gasket.
 
I also use the husqvarna decomp in pretty much all my stihls.
I put an 036 equivalent cylinder and a pop up piston in an 034 Stihl and run both a 20" full comp or a 25" with full skip on mine ,it absolutely cuts above its class.
You might want to measure your squish using thin solder , anywhere above .030 is gonna hurt power. I like .025- .017 range for good torque and deleting the base gasket can sometimes get me in the ball park. I use Yamabond 4 for the gasket.
He has 160# compression, pretty sure that's not an issue, but you never know!
 
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