Need Advice on Husky 350

[sethmac1]

I have a Husky 350...older model, metal handle...I love the saw. Used it last year use it clearing cedars mostly.

Last year, the screw that holds the pullout choke blue lever) came off so I pulled the carb and replaced the lever.

When I went to start it up recently, it starts but at idle, the chain runs fast and it stalls on pull of trigger. I attempted to adjust idle, high and low and can't seem to get it to behave. The adjustment guards are still on the High and Low and I've considered pulling them off and starting to retune (I have a tachometer) but not really experience doing this.

It has a new clutch and clutch brakes. Any advice?

Thanks

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Photo of the saw would be good- to confirm what we are playing the guessing game with- there was a Husky 35 and a Husqvarna 350, the 35 had a metal handle- the 350 has a plastic rear handle.

I suspect if it is the plastic case 350- you are experiencing an air leak- most likely from a loose lower engine pan, but it could be from several other areas on this model- like the original plastic clamp holding the manifold to the cylinder having let go.

 

[sethmac1]

Sure...I'm currently planning to rebuild the carb as I didn't know what else to do and the kit was pretty cheap. I checked compression today (just under 150) and I took a look at piston removing muffler...looks fine (given my limited knowledge)...here are the pictures are requested:

 

[singinwoodwackr]

350, plastic handle. What metal are you referring to?
If this ran ok before you pulled the carb i’d say something didn’t get put back together correctly. Air leak from the carb gasket? Impulse line not hooked up right?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Sure...I'm currently planning to rebuild the carb as I didn't know what else to do and the kit was pretty cheap. I checked compression today (just under 150) and I took a look at piston removing muffler...looks fine (given my limited knowledge)...here are the pictures are requested:

Yep- Husqvarna 350- so a scaled down kind of version of the 357/359 but clamshelled engine and plastic cased.
Unlike other cheap clamshell's though- they run a metal tubular front handle/wrap- not a plastic version.

With this saw, you have several air leak spots- the loose engine pan, loose cylinder bolts (unusual- but not unheard of), plastic clip breakage at manifold to cylinder clamp, perforated manifold, small 180 degree impulse hose off or attachment nipples broken, or impulse hose split, stripped threads in plastic carb mount plate, leaking gaskets in intake, perforations in fuel line.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I have one in a box to build later this winter.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I have one in a box to build later this winter.

I have done 4 in the past couple of months- although one was a 2150.

 

[sethmac1]

Curious if y'all could educate me a bit more on symptoms of an air leak...I'm assuming the surging is one?

I examined piston via the spark plug port and exhaust and it looks to be in good shape. I've been watching videos on tearing it down...should I just tear it all the way down and use permetex to reseal case and buy new gaskets?

I see in the videos folks checking squish and using degree wheel to set timing...Can i reseal without these procedures....feeling a bit out of my depth

 

[J D]

If your compression is 150 PSI & piston looks good through exhaust port I wouldn't worry too much about pulling the top end just yet... vac/pressure test would be the first thing to do to confirm or eliminate the possibility of a leak.
A saw with an air leak will be lean & race, rev high, & be problematic to tune. Carb/ tuning issues can cause similar but these saws have some known areas of concern as Bob mentioned