Signs of a bad clutch

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powerking

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..what are some signs that your clutch may be bad? I'm having an issue with this 028 that was givin to me....It was straight gassed, so she got a new 44m piston and cylinder (and some port work!!) and she's turning about 12k, but when you bury it in the wood, it bogs right down
 
Depends; if you've put a 28" bar on it and are burying it in hardwood, I'd say that isn't clutch related.

Why would you think it's a clutch problem if the engine is bogging down? If the clutch was slipping you'd be getting the revs, just not the power transferred to the chain surely? And probably a lot of heat in the clutch.

Wouldn't bogging down mean either a tuning issue or too much resistance from what you're cutting?
 
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..Sorry Dan, thats what I meant...The rpm's don't stall out completely, She's only running a 16" bar. I got the saw in "not running" condition, so i have no idea if it had issues before I got it.
 
Maybe you have a broken or missing clutch spring(s)..??

If that not it..I'd replace all the springs..very inexpensive..!!
:cheers:
J2F
 
..what are some signs that your clutch may be bad? I'm having an issue with this 028 that was givin to me....It was straight gassed, so she got a new 44m piston and cylinder (and some port work!!) and she's turning about 12k, but when you bury it in the wood, it bogs right down

Check the clutch over good, but I doubt that is the problem. Check your muffler screen, your chain sharpness and recheck your carb settings. If you don't have enough fuel getting to the saw at WOT, then you need to give it a little more on the H adjustment. Make sure that you are slightly burbling out of the cut (4-stroking) and that the burbling just barely cleans itself out in the cut. The saw should also be idling smoothly and not turning the chain when the chain is tensioned properly. Another good practice is to always pressure test your bottom end of a saw every time you rebuild one, you will at least rule out most air leaks before you even start the saw. Another thing you might want to check is your compression, make sure you're good on that end of things after the type of rebuild you did.
 
Compression is good @ 140lbs......I just replaced a bad crank seal on the PTO side, and then pressure tested it and vacumn tested it. It will sit there and idle all day long, just when the revs get up there in the cut, it seems that the chain speed goes down to a stall quickly in the cut.
 
Compression is good @ 140lbs......I just replaced a bad crank seal on the PTO side, and then pressure tested it and vacumn tested it. It will sit there and idle all day long, just when the revs get up there in the cut, it seems that the chain speed goes down to a stall quickly in the cut.

140#'s isn't terrible, but it could be a lot better and I think (I am wrong at least a 100 times a day, just ask my wife) that saw should be quite a bit higher than that. You might want to pull your muffler off and just take a quick peek at your piston, again I could be wrong but you might want to be safe. Ounce of prevention and all that good stuff you know.
 
Just had the jug off yesterday and P&C are both good....Time to ditch the base gasket! I have to check my squish though...
 
..what are some signs that your clutch may be bad? I'm having an issue with this 028 that was givin to me....It was straight gassed, so she got a new 44m piston and cylinder (and some port work!!) and she's turning about 12k, but when you bury it in the wood, it bogs right down

I think a bad clutch would have signs of bluing from being hot.....clutch shoes being wore down......

Depends; if you've put a 28" bar on it and are burying it in hardwood, I'd say that isn't clutch related.

Why would you think it's a clutch problem if the engine is bogging down? If the clutch was slipping you'd be getting the revs, just not the power transferred to the chain surely? And probably a lot of heat in the clutch.

Wouldn't bogging down mean either a tuning issue or too much resistance from what you're cutting?

Sounds like a tuning issue.....

Have you adjusted the carb? If so, how did you do it? Might be running too rich..... Do a search for carb tuning... a few threads/posts

Oh..... Dan....I like your 'edit' reason! Priceless!
 
Just had the jug off yesterday and P&C are both good....Time to ditch the base gasket! I have to check my squish though...

That's good to hear, don't ask me how I know about that one. I have one on my bench right now that was one of my first rebuilds and I didn't pressure test it like I should have, I bet you can guess the rest. After hearing all of that I would have to wager that you need to check the tuning on your carb and maybe the squish.
 
Oh..... Dan....I like your 'edit' reason! Priceless!

You spotted that then:msp_smile: I started off with just the first line and then decided I was being flippant. Honest problem deserves and decent answer.
 
Just to clarify things here, you are saying that when at WOT and you put it in wood that the chain speed goes down. Does the engine speed go down also? If yes then the clutch is not a problem. Now if the engine speed stays the same and the chain speed slows down then you have a bad clutch.
 
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I have the carb adjusted pretty good (I think!) I have used my tac also to verify my settigns...I am running it a bit rich....Tonight I will see if I can get some numbers up here from the degree wheel
 
transfers havent been touched (to my knowledge) Exhaust port has been widened, intake floor has been lowered....headin out to the garage now!
 
So my exhaust is 104 ATDC and my intake is 68 BTDC.......I think my intake is to high......Question....whenyour looking on the exhaust side and for the piston to just clear the top of the port...being as top of the port is concave..do you wait until you see the whole top of the piston? or just until you start to see the corners of it?? confusing I'm sure!! take a look at my pic, maybe that will help.... View attachment 220358View attachment 220359
 

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