5100S dolmar saga

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Originally Posted by DMShaver
The carb. on a 5100 can be finicky at times. I've had many that are difficult to get into adjustment. When adjusting the carb on these saws, the first thing to do is remove the limiter caps, screw both screws in until they seat lightly, and back both out 1 1/4 turns. Many times you can't do a complete adjustment with the factory settings. (The saws are tuned in Germany on Aspen fuel, and when using US fuel, they need to run a bit richer.) Turn the idle adjustment screw (S) in 2-3 turns and start the saw. Back out the S screw until the RPM is approx. 3200. Turn the L screw in until the RPM's start to rise, and continue turning until you hear them start to die off. Turn the L screw back out a touch. Readjust the S screw to obtain an RPM of 2900 to 3100. Pull the throttle and the saw should jump to life. If it hesitates, the mixture is too lean, back the L screw back out a touch more, and repeat the process until the saw does not hesitate any more. Realize that on this particular carb., adjustments as little as 1/16 of a turn on the low side can make a huge difference. Now do a "dump test". Allow the saw to sit in the normal position for 30 seconds. Abruptly tip the nose of the bar down and listen for a change in RPM. If the saw stalls, the L screw is out to far and needs to be adjusted back in a touch. Repeat the process until a "dump test" can be performed without the saw stalling. Recheck the acceleration, it should still be quick. If not, back the L screw back out a touch etc., etc., etc. It may take a few times back and forth, but if the carb. is functioning properly it will come into adjustment. Now run the saw at top-no-load (TNL) RPM. (Note: the chain should be tightened to the point in which is just starts to droop of the bar, and should spin freely. An over tightened chain will not yield an accurate adjustment.) Pull the throttle and observe the TNL RPM. Given that this saw has an electronic rev limiter, it will not exceed 14,500-14,700 RPM. Back the H screw out until you see the RPM's start to drop (richening the mixture). I have found that these saws perform extremely well with the TNL RPM right around 14,000. Surprisingly enough the H screw will be 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 turns out at this point. (The limiter caps are factory set to a max of about 1 1/2 turns.) Release the throttle, allow the saw to come to idle, pull the throttle again and it should still have a quick response. Recheck the TNL RPM and adjust as necessary, by turning the H screw out to decrease and in to increase. Finally recheck the idle, and tweak as necessary. Shut the saw off, and reinstall the limiter caps, making sure they are in the approx. center of their travel - this way fine adjustments can be made later without removing the limiter caps again.

Desired RPM's: Idle: 2900-3100 and TLN: 14,000-14,200

A little theory for those that don't understand the importance of performing the adjustments in this order: While idling, the carburetor only allows fuel into the engine through the low speed circuit. During high speed operation, most fuel comes through the high speed circuit, but a small amount may potentially be coming from the low speed circuit as well. Therefore, adjusting the low speed side first is critical in obtaining an accurate high speed setting.

Dolmars ARE NOT set or even run at the factory!!!! Two 5100's we got at the shop new out of the box had porus crankcase castings that caused such major air leaks that they would not even run!!! Dont tell me they run every saw that comes out of that stupid german factory
 
Dolmars ARE NOT set or even run at the factory!!!! Two 5100's we got at the shop new out of the box had porus crankcase castings that caused such major air leaks that they would not even run!!! Dont tell me they run every saw that comes out of that stupid german factory

I didn't write it and just want to make a point that it is a good tuning post and helped me with mine. As far as your bad castings let them know and I bet you would have a new saw sitting in front of you no matter how old it is.

I wear ear plugs and can still hear the saw!
 
Dolmars ARE NOT set or even run at the factory!!!! Two 5100's we got at the shop new out of the box had porus crankcase castings that caused such major air leaks that they would not even run!!! Dont tell me they run every saw that comes out of that stupid german factory

I'll bet you let out a big sigh of reliefe after that :)
 
I am now emailing back in forth with the distributor .Seems like a nice guy see if he gives me any help.
 
Well went to a different dealer and he took off muffler and again piston scored .Looks they are going to replace the saw.
 
Sir Funk,

you are hereby invited to send any of your left over Dolmar junk to me.
 
so I got my new saw today 5105 just has my old bar and chain the dolmar dealer in Zanesville Ohio did me right . He is just starting so his shop is a little rough around the edges .He got me a new saw no hassles no crap .If you are in the the Newark Zanesville area and looking for a dolmar give Greg on rt 40 a chance .
 
so I got my new saw today 5105 just has my old bar and chain the dolmar dealer in Zanesville Ohio did me right . He is just starting so his shop is a little rough around the edges .He got me a new saw no hassles no crap .If you are in the the Newark Zanesville area and looking for a dolmar give Greg on rt 40 a chance .

Good deal. Sometimes a good dealer is just as valuable as the product it's self. The 5105 is an overall better saw than the 5100, with a better reliability record. The only thing I'd do is change out the cat muffler, with a non cat.
 
Good deal. Sometimes a good dealer is just as valuable as the product it's self. The 5105 is an overall better saw than the 5100, with a better reliability record. The only thing I'd do is change out the cat muffler, with a non cat.

Perhaps "overall better", but I doubt it.

The PS5100 S IS a little Hotrod, don't know of another 50cc that can out cut it (stock for stock)

There were and are failures, but like computeruser so eloquently said, those dudes are not for the gas and go user.
 
Perhaps those dudes were a bit too much for some of the smucks that sold them as well?


Just because you are a dealer doesn't mean you know crap about the product you peddle.

Or how to tune them correctly.
 
As usual, it is little point in rebuilding a saw, unless the reason the original engine failed has been determined.
Likely this wasn't a case of bad gas, but more likely the lean factory carb setting (to pass EPA) and/or the bad cooling of that model. The carb setting needed to be corrected by the dealer at the point of sale, and followed up, but many dealers failed to do that properly.

The first 5105s improved the cooling, and a little later a cat muffler was added (so the carb could be set right), and te max rpm were taken down from 14,500 to 13,800.
 
As usual, it is little point in rebuilding a saw, unless the reason the original engine failed has been determined.
Likely this wasn't a case of bad gas, but more likely the lean factory carb setting (to pass EPA) and/or the bad cooling of that model. The carb setting needed to be corrected by the dealer at the point of sale, and followed up, but many dealers failed to do that properly.

The first 5105s improved the cooling, and a little later a cat muffler was added (so the carb could be set right), and te max rpm were taken down from 14,500 to 13,800.

In the case of the 5100/5105,

More=Less.
 
I have owned chainsaws for 15 years only one I have ever had major problems with , Always use dolmar oil, High octane gas ,clean air filter. I dont think a saw should have carb adjusted every time it is used .

The oil brand is irrellevant, as long as it is a quality synth for air cooled engines.:msp_smile:
 
Perhaps "overall better", but I doubt it.

The PS5100 S IS a little Hotrod, don't know of another 50cc that can out cut it (stock for stock)

There were and are failures, but like computeruser so eloquently said, those dudes are not for the gas and go user.

I'm a Dolmar man myself, but the 5100 had a slew of design, parts and QC issues. Why do you think the redesigned the saw. I had a hand full of early 5100's and they were honestly not ready for production, they even built saws with small parts missing, just to get them out the door. Now add bad tuning and you get the idea. Stock for stock my 346 has out cut every stock 5100 within 400 or so miles from my front door. Now don't get me wrong, the later 5100's are not bad saw, but they are nothing special
 
I'm a Dolmar man myself, but the 5100 had a slew of design, parts and QC issues. Why do you think the redesigned the saw. I had a hand full of early 5100's and they were honestly not ready for production, they even built saws with small parts missing, just to get them out the door. Now add bad tuning and you get the idea. Stock for stock my 346 has out cut every stock 5100 within 400 or so miles from my front door. Now don't get me wrong, the later 5100's are not bad saw, but they are nothing special

My feelings on the 346 also.

Is your 346 still stock? My 5100 is:hmm3grin2orange:
 
These pissin' matches get old.

The 346/5100 are so close, the guy behind the file (and the trigger) will make or break either one.

Like Mr. Petty said "if ya can't beat them outlaw them"

Kinda like the 5100, "if ya can't beat 'em trash 'em"!
 
These pissin' matches get old.

The 346/5100 are so close, the guy behind the file (and the trigger) will make or break either one.

Like Mr. Petty said "if ya can't beat them outlaw them"

Kinda like the 5100, "if ya can't beat 'em trash 'em"!

Easy to say, and it may sound plausible - but it isn't quite true. The only thing that is real close is the power (real world) and weight (only in the specs, not in reality).

The Husky handles a lot better, and is much better for limbing etc. Husky puts a lot of effort into such things, while Dolmar apparently does not......:biggrin:
 
I have a 346NE and a 5105

The 5105 has noticeably more power.

But that is not the whole story. For limbing spruce trees, I'd use the 346 over the 5105 any day.

For bucking the trunk, I'd rather use the 5105

Mine are set up different. The 5105 is 3/8 X 20 and the 346 is .325 X 18.
 

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