What lathe?

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long thread, I haven't backread it yet..
Are You guys gonna spoil the surprise of tool point geometry, for him? ;)
textbooks tellya a wide radius and slow feed rate for smooth finish. makes an awesome squealer too!
or a wavy knurling tool (jk).
or how the metals used in saw construction tend to string and wad up like easter basket bedding.
that's with flat (usually brazed tip tooling)
grab the porting tool (diamond grit) and cut some chip breakers into it.
cool til it crunches off from running in and out of that chrome plating in that undulating comb chamber.

You'll try differnt things to try and dampen out that tool chipping & dimension killing chatter/squeal.
pushing with a finger or stick is inconsistent and can get you sliced badly (razor band shavings)
sometimes a dampening wrap around or stuffed into the workpiece can be magic.

gathering the tooling is often the larger fraction of the cost of having the mill and lathe.

Mercy, I miss being in a job shop, gettin' paid to make other peoples "toys"!!
=
And I greatly appreciate what some of you saw builders are willing to post,
as I have to live rather vicariously through y'all nowdays.
 
Getting rid of chatter is somewhat of an art, to me anyway. Usually accomplished with a sharp tool, reasonable RPMs, and enough feed to keep the tool loaded. On critical parts I will make trial finish cuts to ensure the parameters are working.
 
Getting rid of chatter is somewhat of an art, to me anyway. Usually accomplished with a sharp tool, reasonable RPMs, and enough feed to keep the tool loaded. On critical parts I will make trial finish cuts to ensure the parameters are working.

It sure ain't pure science!!!!

Sometimes a fresh insert and you got chatter.

Coated inserts help......or uncoated inserts.

Or swinging a dead cat over you head.

WHATEVER works.
 
It sure ain't pure science!!!!

Sometimes a fresh insert and you got chatter.

Coated inserts help......or uncoated inserts.

Or swinging a dead cat over you head.

WHATEVER works.



On some machines, to swing a dead cat you have to take the gap out of the bed ;)
 
Brad,

Just remember one thing when it comes to mills and lathes.

"The cost of the machine tool is just the deposit".

If you buy a lathe that includes a few boxes of tooling you will likely be getting more value in those boxes than in the machine itself. Try to buy something from a private party that includes all of his tooling.

You want a 3 jaw and 4 jaw chuck if possible, drill chuck, boring bar, quick change toolpost, knurling tools, live centers, power feeds, face plate and drive dog, and a 5c collet chuck would be nice also. If any of these terms are jargon to you, research them before you buy.

Good luck, and try to buy "old" quality.

That's some of the best advice of this thread.
Keep in mind that weight and mass is your friend when running a lathe or mill but not when you are moving them.
Buy a lathe that is larger then you think you need. For me the ideal home shop lathe should have a swing of 12-14", at least 36" between centers ( I cut gun barrels for a few of the locals), power feeds, ability to cut inch and metric threads for saws. I have dressed up many saw cranks that people pounded on the flywheel side with a hammer.
Don't think that you will only cut pistons and cylinders with it. Once you get a lathe you will find all kinds of uses for it. A good example are those small metal bushing on the chain brake handle(starter side) on the Husky 372s, the locals loose them constantly. I make them about 20 at a time.
Don't worry about purchasing used if the price is right. The best machinist that I was ever around was one of my instructors in machine shop in the late 60s. He told us that the metal lathe is the only machine that can reproduce itself. So you can make anything on your lathe to repair it. Granted it would be easier to make some of those parts on a mill but that will be your next step, then a good mig and tig and it will keep going. I suggest that you find room for something larger then that little Grizzly
Here is a lathe that I picked up for 500.00. Italian built Troglia 13 1/2x 36. I had to cut a new bronze worm gear for the apron power feed. I cut 3 gears, the first one I cut out of plastic just to make sure that it would fit. Then I cut two more of them out of bronze.
It now has a Dorian tool post and holders, actually ist my second set of Quick change tool post and holders for the lathe, two crack head girls stole the first set up that I had.
Later
Dan
 
I figure he should buy a small good quality lathe.

He'll learn.

He'll buy.

Repeat.

Remember........ When I met him he had 1 chainsaw.

He didn't go out to buy 2 or more.

They never do.

Brad. I'm setting mill tooling aside.........
 
Very, very nice heavy and solid looking machine.

So....let's talk about those crackhead girls. :msp_w00t:


Yes the lathe is built well. Most of those chips in the pan are from Inconel 625 from when I made the 5c spindle nose adapter for it. The hardest part that I had to work out on the lathe was wiring the 380 volt 3 phase 2 speed motor to run on 220 3 phase. It took me a while to figure that one out. I had no wiring diagram for the Italian built motor. I finally managed to wire it for 190 volt and feed it 220, it works fine that way.
The two girls got caught robbing another house and they admitted to taking my items. My last count was 5900.00. One is out of jail and the other one is still in. They never admitted to having any help at my house. One lathe chuck they stole weighed in at over 90 pound, these girls weighed 110 each and carried these items about 1/4 mile to the car.
Later
Dan
 
Dozerdan;

Yeah. The Italians are nice. Graziano SAG 12. Nice and bottom heavy!

Are you talking about the lathe or the Italian women that are bottom heavy ? LOL

Local tech school has 4 of the Sag 12s that will be auctioned off soon, I will try to buy all of them.

Later
Dan
 
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