Parts washer fluid recommendations

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bplust

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Hi all,

I'm finally buying a parts washer today, and I was wondering what others were filling theirs with (besides parts!).

Specifically, what solvent works nicely to clean up parts without removing the paint on the older metal stuff? Also, what's the most affordable solvent you can use? Off road?

Thanks in advance,

Bryan
 
I bought the cheaper water-based stuff from Harbor Freight where I bought my parts washer from. It was about $6/gal, I mixed it 1:10 because the 1:26 that was recommended on the jug wasn't strong enough.

The most important thing when using water-based solvents is to heat it up! Helps dissolve that grease and oil away.
 
I'm using some stuff I got at Tractor Supply, PSC1000, and I'm really happy with it. It comes in 5 gallon cans for $40. I used to use mineral spirits but it's gotten very expensive.
Some people use diesel fuel but I can't stand the odor of it. I also tried some water based concentrate you mix up that I got a Harbor Freight but it was pretty much useless.
 
I use purple power, mix it 1 part pp to 10 parts water. I have a magnetic heater stuck to the bottom
of the parts washer to heat it up. I usually plug the heater in about a half hour before I use the washer and it gets the fluid around 85-90 degrees, works pretty well.
 
I use the ultrasonic cleaner in the shop everyday, and dump out the dirty water every 3-4 days.

I used everything from Castle 2-22, Simple Green, Stihl Degreaser, Awesome, Purple Power etc.

And the best cheapest thing I've found is just Dawn liquid dish soap.

It cleans as well as the rest, it's cheap, and safe to dump down the drain.
 
I really like awesome and purple power and usually put the cleaner /water solution in a plastic freezer bag then set this in the cleaner that has only water in it. having heat really helps.
I also put carburetors in a freezer bag to clean.
 
Some parts washers are only rated for water based cleaners. Could generate sparks that light flammable stuff or degrade plastics in the pump. Some solvent based parts washers might rust faster with water. So check what you buy. Also decide how you are going to dispose of your used cleaning fluid. Does it go down the drain or does it become a hazardous waste?

I like the idea of the water based cleaners because the odor and flammability of some of the solvent based stuff is a concern to me. I bought a small unit from Northern Tool to use on bicycle and chainsaw parts, but decided that I was just as happy with buckets and an old crock pot (obviously, bigger stuff won't fit) for a heated cleaner. Sold the parts cleaner on CL. Solvents clean some stuff better.

I like to use the least nasty cleaner first. Simple Green, citrus based cleaners, Purple Power/Super Clean. These are all pretty affordable, but have a useful life. Bicycle stores and catalogs sell degreasers that they claim are more environmentally friendly. Have used paint thinner in small glass jars, and vinegar (for rust) in my small ultra sonic cleaner (USC).

Ironically, the least satisfactory stuff for me was a water based product called something like 'Monster Clean' that I bought with my parts cleaner.

Philbert
 
Thanks for all of the replies, definitely some very helpful info.

Which cleaner do people think would be the least detrimental to older painted parts? Or should they be cleaned up with light compressed air and elbow grease? I'm specifically talking about stuff that's starting to loose its paint. I don't know if Homelite used inferior paint back in the day or not, but between them, McCulloch, Poulan, Husky, and Stihl, their saws are by far the worst off regarding paint. Could just be coincidental, but it's pretty across the board in my findings.

Thanks again,

Bryan
 
K-1 baby! Cheap (compared to other options), and works well for what I need it to do.
 
" vinegar (for rust) in my small ultra sonic cleaner" That is interesting and I will try it'

Note that it may darken some metals - e.g. the rivets on some tie straps. The black stuff came off with some ScotchBrite, but I think that it is mostly cosmetic.

Which cleaner do people think would be the least detrimental to older painted parts?

Great question. Kind of like that "try in an inconspicuous corner . . . " advice that comes with a lot of cleaners. I think that you are correct in assuming that not all paints are the same. I think that the milder, water based cleaners would be less likely to damage painted parts. I use a toothbrush, and long, pointed, wooden sticks (sold in grocery as shish-kabob skewers) to clean up lots of painted and plastic parts.

Some water based cleaners containing lye (sodium hydroxide), including many of the 'purple cleaners' and oven cleaners, specifically warn about using on aluminum and painted surfaces. Steel parts hold up to most solvents and cleaners as long as they don't rust!

Philbert
 
I used mineral spirits for many years but due to the ridiculous cost increase, I have switched to Jet-A (kerosene) and find it to be adequate. It doesn't remove paint and is an excellent gunk remover. In my parts washer, I never "replace" the fluid, just keep adding to it. Every couple years, I empty the washer (40 gallon size and I probably keep 12-15 gallons in it.) into five gallon pails, clean the washer thoroughly then let the buckets sit for a couple weeks. The crud will settle and I siphon off the solvent down to about the two inch level back into the parts washer and add new fluid as required. The residue in the pails goes into my brush fire starting can.
Works for me.
 
Never cut eucalyptus myself but it must leave a Gum? Try a little WD40 or possibly some of the Stihl Hedge trimmer Degummer and Lubricant.I bought a Can and going to try it this year.
 

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