jeepyfz450
Addicted to ArboristSite
Lol.. yeah a 36'' would be more than enough but the 48 would be so much cooler. i run a 50'' on my 090 and would love to run them back to back with 50s on them and see.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Lol.. yeah a 36'' would be more than enough but the 48 would be so much cooler. i run a 50'' on my 090 and would love to run them back to back with 50s on them and see.
As usual I only had a small amount of money on me and they had over 200 chainsaws they were auctioning off and of course they sold the bars first. I ended up buying about a dozen chainsaws.
ozflea
Good ol' BP Zoom 25-1
Be patient my friend. Bars are on ebay all
the time for those saws. That saw can pull
up to 60 inches. For what you want to do
with it i would recommend 32 to 42 inches.
Lee
jeepyfz450
Addicted to ArboristSite
I do like to lean on them pretty good.
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks. I scrubbed and wiped the model/serial plate several times thinking it just had a bit of trash stuck there, but either it had trash there when it was stamped or it's been hit with something because it just wouldn't come off. Not much left of this one that's usable. :msp_thumbdn:
cat-face timber
Knot Bumper
Mac 605 Help needed
Hello Gents,
My issue is the oiler.
When I push the Manual Oiler I can see the oil fly off the bar, but the saw is not oiling without pushing the maunal button.
I have not take it apart yet, anything to watch out for?
thanks for your help!
Hello Gents,
My issue is the oiler.
When I push the Manual Oiler I can see the oil fly off the bar, but the saw is not oiling without pushing the maunal button.
I have not take it apart yet, anything to watch out for?
thanks for your help!
The 600 Series saws use an impulse operated oil pump for the automatic oiler. If the manual oiler works, everything else should be in order, just a sticking piston in the automatic pump, you might first try backing out the adjuster screw to see if that will free it up, otherwise you will have to remove the whole pump unit and work it free. The manual and automatic oil pumps are contained in one unit attached with four screws and located just in front of the air box. Under the oil pump is a diaphragm, below that cover plate, and then another gasket between the cover and the oil tank.
Don't lose the little check valve disc when you take the pump off the cover plate.
There is an outside chance that the impulse passage from the crankcase to the oil pump is blocked but I have never in fact seen that occur.
PM me with your e-mail address if you need an IPL.
Mark
Don't lose the little check valve disc when you take the pump off the cover plate.
There is an outside chance that the impulse passage from the crankcase to the oil pump is blocked but I have never in fact seen that occur.
PM me with your e-mail address if you need an IPL.
Mark
mad murdock
ArboristSite Guru
10-10 piston and rings
My friend has a promac 10-10 he is restoring for his dad for fathers day. He is at an impass with the project, he needs a PN 69212 std size piston, with PN 62814 std rings, he has a PN 69210 .020" O-sized piston and rings he can trade someone, or if anyone knows where to go to get the correct match for his Std Cyl. Thanks!!
My friend has a promac 10-10 he is restoring for his dad for fathers day. He is at an impass with the project, he needs a PN 69212 std size piston, with PN 62814 std rings, he has a PN 69210 .020" O-sized piston and rings he can trade someone, or if anyone knows where to go to get the correct match for his Std Cyl. Thanks!!
Picked up this PM 555 at an auction for $10:
Put in some fresh gas and it runs and cuts but the last owner must of used 30w motor oil in the gas because it was blowing stinky blueish smoke for the first 2 minutes I ran it and there's a lot of oily sludge on and around the muffler. Only other problem so far is the manual oiler button is broke off. I'm going to clean it up, cheak it over and hopefully run a tank or 2 of gas through it this week.
Put in some fresh gas and it runs and cuts but the last owner must of used 30w motor oil in the gas because it was blowing stinky blueish smoke for the first 2 minutes I ran it and there's a lot of oily sludge on and around the muffler. Only other problem so far is the manual oiler button is broke off. I'm going to clean it up, cheak it over and hopefully run a tank or 2 of gas through it this week.
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
Picked up this PM 555 at an auction for $10:
Put in some fresh gas and it runs and cuts but the last owner must of used 30w motor oil in the gas because it was blowing stinky blueish smoke for the first 2 minutes I ran it and there's a lot of oily sludge on and around the muffler. Only other problem so far is the manual oiler button is broke off. I'm going to clean it up, cheak it over and hopefully run a tank or 2 of gas through it this week.
Might want to check the auto oiler gasket. It could be leaking bar oil into the crankcase causing that smoke.
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
The one that goes in the oil tank for the oil pump.
I have never seen one with a sticky side, older ones I have were just paper, later ones were a hard rubber.
Come to think of it, I may have a paper one or two with a pressure sensitive adhesive, not sure you could go wrong either way with those.
No need to clean any paint off unless it is chipped and would prevent a good seal, I don't think I have many that have any paint on the pump mounting surface.
Mark
Come to think of it, I may have a paper one or two with a pressure sensitive adhesive, not sure you could go wrong either way with those.
No need to clean any paint off unless it is chipped and would prevent a good seal, I don't think I have many that have any paint on the pump mounting surface.
Mark
Brian - As long as it is clean and smooth no real reason to remove the paint. If it is chipped or rough enough to prevent a good seal, then you will have to clean it off.
Do you have the metal clip that wedges the bottom end of the automatic pump in place, the spring clip on top of the automatic pump that provides some additional compression at the gasket, or just the single screw?
Certain older models actually used three screws to secure the automatic oil pump, those rarely had issues with bar oil getting into the crank case.
The metal clip wedged in place is also a pretty secure fix to the automatic oiler leaking into the crank case.
The spring clip on top of the automatic oil pump is less secure than either three screws or the metal clip wedged in place.
The single screw by itself is rarely a good solution.
Mark
Do you have the metal clip that wedges the bottom end of the automatic pump in place, the spring clip on top of the automatic pump that provides some additional compression at the gasket, or just the single screw?
Certain older models actually used three screws to secure the automatic oil pump, those rarely had issues with bar oil getting into the crank case.
The metal clip wedged in place is also a pretty secure fix to the automatic oiler leaking into the crank case.
The spring clip on top of the automatic oil pump is less secure than either three screws or the metal clip wedged in place.
The single screw by itself is rarely a good solution.
Mark
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
I unfotunatly have the single screw situation. The hydro-locking is a bummer too because it runs so darn good.
Is there a way to convert to the clip?
Yes, just get the clip and wedge it in place. It will work with any of the oil pumps, but the "kit" also included a couple of brass rivets or bushings that installed in the two bottom holes of the plastic automatic oil pump bodies. I am not sure if they were intended primarily to prevent the metal clip from digging into the body, or if they were intended more to help position the gasket under the pump body.
There was an e-bay seller listing the kits (215246), sorry but I'm getting old and don't remember his I.D., Mike Mandry was a member here (may still be) and located near St. Louis, MO. He was selling them for under $10, last one I saw on e-bay by another seller went for more than $22.
Mark
There was an e-bay seller listing the kits (215246), sorry but I'm getting old and don't remember his I.D., Mike Mandry was a member here (may still be) and located near St. Louis, MO. He was selling them for under $10, last one I saw on e-bay by another seller went for more than $22.
Mark
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