Warped5
WingNut
Carl ....... WHY is the skinny little geezer trying to pull it with his butt? How does he possibly get a grip?
That is a FINE looking saw, though!
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Carl ....... WHY is the skinny little geezer trying to pull it with his butt? How does he possibly get a grip?
That is a FINE looking saw, though!
Carl ....... WHY is the skinny little geezer trying to pull it with his butt? How does he possibly get a grip?
That is a FINE looking saw, though!
Looks arn't worth squat when he won't cut. Lacks power. I have fat spark, 125 psi comp. and the Tilly in the ballpark but he bogs down just driving the chain. Chain won't cut, just makes dust.
On top of that, no way for bar oil to get to the chain. Bar lacks necessary hole/passage.................................................. We have a drill press.
Is the timing adjustable on this thing? Point gap/dwell is our next look-see.
Warped5
WingNut
Bogs down ... like 'pig fat'?
IIRC, the points are adjustable for gap/dwell.
Good luck!
Macman125
libertarian/anarcho-capitalist firewood hack
You definitely want it to oil the chain. Is it sharp? Make sure your drags are set at the right height.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
McVibrate w/McMallbar runs but we havn't cut with it yet.
McHemorids are barkin' from all the pullin'.
If it pulls this bar/chain, this skinny little geezer will need a helper handle.:msp_rolleyes:
I can trade you for a proper B&C, roller tip bar.
Chain definately needs work. Has never seen a grinder that I can tell.
I have a Windsor UXL x 20 hardnose that seems to fit. Have to change the sprocket/drum to .404.
I may soon have a Mall bar and a 69 dl length of 1/2" chain surplus. Too long and heavy for my taste anyway.
Been back and forth about 3/4 turn on the H.S.. Will try fatter after I check the point gap.
RandyMac
Stiff Member
Please keep me in mind when you are ready to let go of it.
OldDeadWood
ArboristSite Operative
McVibrate w/McMallbar runs but we havn't cut with it yet.
First: Nice looking saw.
Next: That (like new) Mall bar and (like new) pintale chain are worth more than enough money to buy whatever bar and chain you would like to use.
Last: If the bar is not well oiled the drag is enough to stall the motor, much less putting it in some wood. To test that problem just oil the heck out of the chain with an oil can and make sure the chain isn't to tight. If that works you can probably drill the bar to make it oil (or sell it).
ODW
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
Sell or trade it. No need to bugger up a fine bar and chain to fit a very common Mac.
As stated, the b/c combo should get you everything to run .404 or 1/2" pitch for the saw, and it sounds like that may be on its way from the left coast soon.
But its yours, so do as you see fit.
fechtichmac
ArboristSite Operative
895
Was finally able to rebuild the flatback,wich is in working order now.
Had to remove him 10! times since after every running the carb box was flooded with gas,
but no leaks in the carb ,pressure+vacuum tests-all o.k.
The issue was to easy to find-the original fuel line was`nt snug enough fitted on the carb!!
No more flooding now! (Stupid??)
Also installed the spitback assy with a new Piece of a B+S foam airfilter,I think that this is fuel resistant.
Thanks for looking!
E.
Was finally able to rebuild the flatback,wich is in working order now.
Had to remove him 10! times since after every running the carb box was flooded with gas,
but no leaks in the carb ,pressure+vacuum tests-all o.k.
The issue was to easy to find-the original fuel line was`nt snug enough fitted on the carb!!
No more flooding now! (Stupid??)
Also installed the spitback assy with a new Piece of a B+S foam airfilter,I think that this is fuel resistant.
Thanks for looking!
E.
E. I'm glad you got it going. Don't beat yourself up too much. We all miss simple things from time to time. Ron
fechtichmac
ArboristSite Operative
+1, I've had my fair share of them stupid flaty carbs
appart. And almost everyone is appart several times
before i get it right. Tillys are always a one time deal.
Lee
appart. And almost everyone is appart several times
before i get it right. Tillys are always a one time deal.
Lee
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
What's this crankcase I acquired? turns over freely, haven't looked inside yet.
View attachment 298187View attachment 298188View attachment 298189
View attachment 298187View attachment 298188View attachment 298189
paccity
Addicted to ArboristSite
looks to have a removable head?
Most likely candidate with the full wrap handle bar and removable head is a 1-51. Turn it over and wipe off the bottom of the crank case, you will find the model and serial numbers stamped into the crank case on either side of the "T".
This one happens to be a 1-40, serial 23609 that came to me from topgut, haven't seen him posting in a long while.
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=298201&d=1370147154
Mark
This one happens to be a 1-40, serial 23609 that came to me from topgut, haven't seen him posting in a long while.
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=298201&d=1370147154
Mark
Currently visiting Uncle Ho again, should be a warm and humid week on this side of the globe...
The lower end models (1-40 -1-43, 200, etc.) had the stack, higher end models like the 1-45/46 and 1-50's all had can type mufflers. One day I will have to remember to see how the 33/35 type muffler looks on the horizontal cylinder saws, they seemed to have been made from much better material and held up better over the years.
Mark
The lower end models (1-40 -1-43, 200, etc.) had the stack, higher end models like the 1-45/46 and 1-50's all had can type mufflers. One day I will have to remember to see how the 33/35 type muffler looks on the horizontal cylinder saws, they seemed to have been made from much better material and held up better over the years.
Mark
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