The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

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I tend to agree. If I get something really cheap, that means I can afford to spend a few bucks on preventative maintenance or replacement parts.
Yep, i picked up an 026 from the scrapper last spring for $3.50. Cleaned up the cylinder, new rings, crank seals, new a/v mounts and a top cover. Runs very nice. Less than $70 in the whole thing. The cheaper I can get them, the more I can put in them. The way I look at an electric start saw is not that they may be rare, but that they are very unique. I like to see things like that back in operating condition.
 
Worked on mine a little bit, fixed 'er up with some parts from the parts saw.

First of all was figuring out the oiler, so off it came.



A later model (or one converted) oil pump. Interestingly, as you can see, the spacer/gasket says NOK Japan.


The easiest way to install and work on the oiler...


My oiler would pump on and off when oil was put into the pickup side, so I switched it with the parts saw one, which was working nicely.

Solved the oiling problem, so thought I'd tackle the switch.

Was taking apart the switch on the parts saw and found the bracket was a lot better and stronger, and also switched over the plastic insert for the handle.





All back together, and finally all complete.

 
I got my 3-10E all torn apart last night. saying it is rough is an understatement. Luckly the electric start stuff and the cylinder is good but everything else is shot! I'm so thankful for parts saws!
 
My 6 year old took my 1010 chain off do these have 2 bar plate covers on them? I've only got one now lol
 
My 6 year old took my 1010 chain off do these have 2 bar plate covers on them? I've only got one now lol
There should be an inner and outer bar plate, or yes 2 bar plates. However, I've seen them run with 2, 1, and none. Not sure where guys lose them. I've seen them work and oil fine without the plates, but the plates are nice to keep a wild chain from gashing the case or clutch cover.
 
Well I just maid a cover hadn't ran the 1010 in a while started in about 15 pulls...
 
Well I just maid a cover hadn't ran the 1010 in a while started in about 15 pulls...

Speaking of, am planning on a wood scrounging trip this weekend, since it will be so nice out (finally).

I decided to check out the 10-10S, as it had been sitting since I had fixed it from above.

Started on the first pull.

Was surprised to say the least.... :)
 
Mine was dry of fuel and had been sitting a year or so... what's a good mac in the 70 - 80cc range to compliment the 10-10? I want the saw to have points.
 
Pro Mac 700 is a solid 70 cc saw, a 7-10 in good shape is even snappier than the PM700. SP70 or CP70 saws are harder to find but both feature good anti-vibe which is nice.

Any of the 82 cc saws are nice; SP80/81, PM850, PM800, PM805, I don't have experience yet with the PM8200 or Double Eagle 80 but have no reason to doubt they would be great as well. All of the 82cc saws have good anti-vibe.

Mark
 
SP80 and SP81 (82 cc), SP70, CP70, CP70L (70 cc) and the 7-10 were all points ignition saws. Most PM700 were electronic ignition but there were some early ones that were points style ignition.

The magnet position on the flywheel is the same on all models regardless of electronic ignition or not but there are 12 fin, 18 fin, and 24 fin flywheels from different models.

Mark
 
I recently was given a mac by a Norton Club friend. He got it from his FIL. After using it for a few years, he felt it was heavy for his needs, and bought a small Sthil and put the running mac aside many years ago. Now observing my CAD, he offered, and I accepted the donation.

This Pro Mac 10-10 has a Walbro 65 dated 7-77, so I know the approximate vintage. Model 600016U12 sn47303 So it appears to be EI. It fired first pull on a squirt of prime/mix...145psi...16" bar... chain is mostly used up and is missing a cutter. Nice to see a rim rather than a spur clutch. I can share chains with my XL-12.

I'd like to replace the broken plastic guard 214192 under the pull starter. It needs a new oil cap, the old one suffered greatly from channel locks LOL. Any good lines on Mac parts?

Question for the mac knowledgeable.
1. How fast does the air filter get clogged. I show $5.58 for a filter at TEW, where I get some of my OPE parts, should I get 2 for easy changes? They seem cheap enough.

A biggy....
2. How does the McCulloch black molded lines hold up to E-10. I filled it with mix and is started to pi$$ out around the fuel line feed-thru. I have been dissappointed by the black molded lines and parts turning to black jelly or goo in some of my old sthil, homelite, and shindowa OPE. The after market 215708 black molded fuel line is only $6.91, but this saw has the line with the bell to hold the felt filter and is approx a .40" feed-thru. I currently drain the fuel out of most of my machines, especially the ones I know are not so durable against E-10.

Seems to be right in there with the Homelite 330/53.6cc, Pro Mac 10-10/54cc, Homelite XL-12/54.2cc.
Acres shows the 10-10 at 15.6lbs being 3lbs more than either homelite. I'll be interested to eventually test the difference of both homelite reed valve VS Mac piston port induction.

Thanks for any help.

MAC 002-1.jpg
 
Nice saw. There is a mod that you can do to the fuel line pass through in the 10-10. Mark Heiman has intimate knowledge with it. It is a good permanent fix. Send him a PM. Or maybe he will reply on here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
There are many options, but the fuel lines are not too expensive and readily available on e-bay and elsewhere. I would spend the extra money and get an OEM part, fit better, more flexible, and I've had no trouble with 10% blended fuels though I use them one rarely in my OPE.

The sawdust screen my be more difficult to find, try Bob Johnson, Bill Robinson (Fayetteville Equipment) or M&D.

Mark
 
There are many options, but the fuel lines are not too expensive and readily available on e-bay and elsewhere. I would spend the extra money and get an OEM part, fit better, more flexible, and I've had no trouble with 10% blended fuels though I use them one rarely in my OPE.

The sawdust screen my be more difficult to find, try Bob Johnson, Bill Robinson (Fayetteville Equipment) or M&D.

Mark

Talked to Bill, got a oil cap and bar plates coming, no sawdust filter or OEM fuel line. He only has aftermarket.
In this TEWarehouse order I also have a carb repair kiit coming just to be sure. This is the first SDC carb in my OPE fleet.
I should have this baby running...and...with a new chain....:chainsaw:
Thanks for the help :clap:
 

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