028 super won't cut off

[nikb47]

This should read close to zero ohms.

If not then you have a problem with this connection.

Edit: or a problem inside the coil.

 

[fearofpavement]

Just this past week I repaired a Stihl 441 that wouldn't shut off. It turned out that the wire had broken off the terminal for the ground. ie, the wire that goes from the spring to the case. Once I put a new terminal on, it works as intended.

To make a simple test, get a jumper wire and hook it to ground somewhere (a cylinder fin, et al) and then touch the other end to the wire in the stop switch. By shorting to both sides of the switch, you can determine where the problem is. Most of the time I've had issues with a saw not shutting off, it was just a dirty contact and a little electrical contact cleaner did the job. The broken wire on the 441 was the first time it turned out to be more than just poor contact.

 

[nikb47]

Just this past week I repaired a Stihl 441 that wouldn't shut off. It turned out that the wire had broken off the terminal for the ground. ie, the wire that goes from the spring to the case. Once I put a new terminal on, it works as intended.

To make a simple test, get a jumper wire and hook it to ground somewhere (a cylinder fin, et al) and then touch the other end to the wire in the stop switch. By shorting to both sides of the switch, you can determine where the problem is. Most of the time I've had issues with a saw not shutting off, it was just a dirty contact and a little electrical contact cleaner did the job. The broken wire on the 441 was the first time it turned out to be more than just poor contact.

Yes but if you have continuity between the spring and the coil that would rule that out.

If you have continuity from the kill wire to the coil then when the kill wire hits the spring it kills the saw. (Less resistance than the spark plug gap)

I guess, thinking about it, if both wires have continuity to the coil bolt then there shouldn't be a problem with what I mentioned in my last post. That would leave the only option as bad/no contact at the spring and kill wire.

 

[nikb47]

Yeah I've been working all night, I'm tired, and I'm over thinking this. I'm going to get some sleep.

 

[stihl041avhog]

Ok do you have continuity between the male spade that comes out of the coil and the part of the coil that bolts to the crankcase?

I'm taking the coil off to clean it now. That's the place I didn't check. Will let you know later. Thanks for the help

 

[stihl041avhog]

Just this past week I repaired a Stihl 441 that wouldn't shut off. It turned out that the wire had broken off the terminal for the ground. ie, the wire that goes from the spring to the case. Once I put a new terminal on, it works as intended.

To make a simple test, get a jumper wire and hook it to ground somewhere (a cylinder fin, et al) and then touch the other end to the wire in the stop switch. By shorting to both sides of the switch, you can determine where the problem is. Most of the time I've had issues with a saw not shutting off, it was just a dirty contact and a little electrical contact cleaner did the job. The broken wire on the 441 was the first time it turned out to be more than just poor contact.

I try with jumper wires. It's got to be the coil terminal. thanks for help fear

 

[Knobby57]

I usually opt for a voltage drop test over continuity . Just use the DC volts setting .1v or less is good. You can have a mostly broken off wire or poor connection that will pass a continuity test but still not work as it should. It just gives a more accurate test result


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[nikb47]

I usually opt for a voltage drop test over continuity . Just use the DC volts setting .1v or less is good. You can have a mostly broken off wire or poor connection that will pass a continuity test but still not work as it should. It just gives a more accurate test result


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Agreed. But a lot of people struggle with a simple resistance test. So a voltage drop test is way over their head. Lol