What I am trying to say is that not all of these stoves are doing what yours is. Mine does not "ash over and smother the fire" and I get good complete burns with no charcoal or unburned pieces.
Secondary Burn
- Thread starter woodchuck357
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
zogger
Tree Freak
Oxford
ArboristSite Operative
Careful, big fella. You already got your hand slapped for your histrionics once here. Quick, delete the post so nobody will see you said you were sorry.
All of these boil down to the same glue: people like their stoves and you can't stand it, owning as you do a free one that you started bollixing up the moment somebody extended the first ounce of charity towards you by giving it to you, and it's been everyone else's fault but yours for that ever since.
All of these boil down to the same glue: people like their stoves and you can't stand it, owning as you do a free one that you started bollixing up the moment somebody extended the first ounce of charity towards you by giving it to you, and it's been everyone else's fault but yours for that ever since.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Hot coals cook the volatile compounds out of the wood, which rise to meet the hot air coming from above and burn. My fire does not get smothered by ash.
Your only burn strategy seems to be to burn the wood as fast as possible with maximum energy output rate at all times. There are other approaches.
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
Mine never shoots flame onto the wood unless I have stacked it right up against the tubes. The secondary action is more just flames floating around in mid air. As a matter a fact, the best secondary action comes with a half load. There is usually a lil flame toward the bottom, air coming from the air wash because I usually plug the boost air off after initial firing. and then the top of the box is full of those "ghost flames"
mn woodcutter
ArboristSite Guru
There are not other approaches if he needs more heat than that stove can produce. It seems to me that he is expecting to produce more heat than it was rated for. Also, IMHO his bur oak isn't dry enough to produce optimal performance in that stove. But again, that is a guess at best. I live in similar conditions and have recently burned 1.5 yr old bur oak that was stacked in a single row uncovered in the open and it didn't burn as well as the same wood that was in my open on all sides wood shed. I don't have a moisture meter but was my observation.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
And what you show is exactly the problem Spidey has with these stoves - the heat output in the part of the burn you show there is not enough to keep his house or shop warm. He needs constant max output rate and so must have air flow pulled or blown through the fire at all times.
I agree!
Oxford
ArboristSite Operative
Me too, but he's not going to shut up about it.
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
Awesome, just freakin awesome! Post that again so I can like it twice! 
Yes, I know that, I've said that, I've admitted that, I've conceded that... I don't know what else to say to that.
Your making that up. I don't recall placing blame on anyone... certainly not everyone.
Crystal ball again?? Did you read post #189 and #199??
#189 - "...takes about 20-30 minutes before it's making good heat and the secondary is crankin'. Throttle it back and shop temperature rises about 10°-15° over the next 1-1½ hours or so..."??
#199 - "...I'd much rather have a more even heat throughout the burn than the early nuclear blast..."??
Does that sound like I'm trying, or wanting to burn as fast as possible... at max output??
Man-o-man... this repeating yourself gets bothersome.
Did you read post #189??
#189 - "Oh... I'm burnin' elm, ash, Silver Maple and Cherry in the shop... split small(ish), like 3-5 inches. Yeah, it's 2 years seasoned and been stacked in the shop since first week of October."
The PE firebox ain't seen a stick of oak in something well over a year... I save oak for the furnace in the house.
B'sides, oak just fills the box full of coals faster.
Careful?? Of what??
Histrionics?? Pretty sure my exchange with Del_ can't be characterized by histrionics.
Good word though... wrong usage.
Not only do I not need it (especially at 40°), I don't want it. What I need is for the coal bed to burn instead of dieing out.
How can you guys make such a determination from what's been said??
C'mon‼ The coals die-out to near nothing burning, which means virtually no heat... and from that you deduce I'm not happy unless I have maximum stove output at all times. That's just nonsensical.
Well... at least that addresses the issue instead of makein' excuses for it, pointin' fingers, and ignoring whats been said.
Heck, it makes more sense than what these other guys are sayin'‼
Thanks zogger, I may actually give that a shot... you the man‼
*
Your wood is not seasoned well enough no matter what the species.
woodchuck357
Addicted to ArboristSite
I take care of the stoves in 5 houses, two have little epa cert stoves.
One has been modified slightly with modest improvement. It may get the full treatment next summer.
The other got a box, with a door that has a sliding draft, welded to the bottom. All of the fire brick was removed except for along the back. Most of the original floor was cut away and a grate installed to alow ashes to fall into the new removable ashpan. A retractable cover was made for the secondary air inlet so it can be closed or opened as needed.
The stove now is easy to start a fire in(without leaving the door open), in complete control at all times, no more coal build-up problems, and more than three small sticks of wood can be put into it at the same time. And, for the short time it is appropriate, there is secondary burn.
One has been modified slightly with modest improvement. It may get the full treatment next summer.
The other got a box, with a door that has a sliding draft, welded to the bottom. All of the fire brick was removed except for along the back. Most of the original floor was cut away and a grate installed to alow ashes to fall into the new removable ashpan. A retractable cover was made for the secondary air inlet so it can be closed or opened as needed.
The stove now is easy to start a fire in(without leaving the door open), in complete control at all times, no more coal build-up problems, and more than three small sticks of wood can be put into it at the same time. And, for the short time it is appropriate, there is secondary burn.
So... woodchuck357... you're sayin' the highly modified stove, including grate and air coming in under the fire, has been improved?? And it still achieves secondary burn?? Improved so much that you plan on doin' another one the same way??
NO WAY‼
L-O-L‼
*
NO WAY‼
L-O-L‼
*
Oxford
ArboristSite Operative
Histrionics: behavior or speech for effect,as insincere or exaggerated expression of an emotion;dramatics; operatics:
From Dictionary.com.
You should see if they would put your picture next to the definition, WS.
I generally know what the words mean.
From Dictionary.com.
You should see if they would put your picture next to the definition, WS.
I generally know what the words mean.
youd have to know him from his past.. which is considerably twisted....he LOVES fairys and gnomes.. they are his talking buddys...
I cracked open the door to get my pre elitist stoves going. That isn't just something recently invented to get communist feminist elitist stoves going. Moot point.
sdt7618
ArboristSite Guru
Are we there yet......
Cerran
Addicted to ArboristSite
Which would indicate the appliance is undersized for the application but it still doesn't explain the coaling issue. I've never had issues in my quad burning coals down even when burning hardwood.
Similar threads
