Stihl 056 Super

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Scott Kelly

Silverpsd_06
Joined
Dec 23, 2014
Messages
193
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Location
Wellsville
First post here, seems like a good place with tons of great information! I've been lurking here for quite some time but cannot find the information i'm looking for. I picked up this old 056 super from a guy in Iowa in so so condition he swore up and down that the only thing wrong with it was carb issues and that it wouldn't stay in tune. From the looks of things on the outside of the saw it appears it had a really tough life.

I've gotten it all back together with some new cosmetic parts, disassembled the carb and cleaned as much as I could. Now it fired right off after a few pulls but started to run away and surge real high then come back down to a normal idle. So i started adjusting the carburetor and to get it to calm down to a slower idle the L screw is backed almost all the way out, it's slow to rev and you have to baby it to get it to full speed. Once you let off the throttle it takes a few seconds for it to come back down to normal. It also spits a little bit of fuel out of the back of the carb if you jump on the throttle, to me it sounds like a leak more than a carb issue. Any pointers on where to start looking on this saw? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
 
With the exception of the fuel spitting out of the carb, it sounds almost exactly like the symptoms I had when I first picked up my 066 Magnum. I rebuilt the carb, replaced fuel line and impulse hose, and still had the same problems you describe. I ultimately pressurized the crankcase, and found I had a significant leak around the clutch side crankcase seal. $14 later, I had a new seal in place and the saw ran absolutely perfect.

Do a pressure test on the crankcase, I'd almost bet you have a leaking seal pulling in air.
 
Haven't pressure tested yet but does anyone know where I can source the seals for this saw? I think one of them may be integrated into the bearing on the clutch side not sure just yet. I found the magneto side for sale on chainsawr, can these be replaced without splitting the case?
 
You are correct. The Mag side can be replaced from the outside. The clutch side is a different animal. It is integrated into the bearing which has to be pressed out (if the bearing is bad) with the cases apart. Put 10 psi into the case and some soapy water on the seals and see if you see and bubbles on either seal. This however only shows one test. The other is a vacuum at 10 psi and it should hold 10 psi for 10 min. If I sea it dropping fast I smear it with a heavy grease, first one side the the other. If it stops youve found the culprit. I replace my mag side seals with a new double ring seal from my bearing dealer. Much better than buying a 30 yr old dried out seal with a single sealing ring, same price around 8$. The clutch bearing is the tough one. Very hard to find. I only have two new ones left, good luck finding one, every once in a while they pop up. I'm leaning more towards buying a new sealed bearing and seeing if a machinist can cut the proper groove into the the opposite side of the bearing and mass producing them. The other bearing has the ring groove thats will be harder to machine. I dont know. Best of luck with the saw friend. They are great saws. I personally like them better than the 1111 series but thats just me :)
 
I'm reading at some point they switched the bearing style on the clutch side, can anyone tell me where exactly to find the serial number? If it is the number just below the hand-guard mine happens to be E7622578, I believe that puts it into the early group with the snap ring groove in the bearing..
 
No, you do not have to split the case or replace the bearings. The seals are replaceable. IIRC, the seals can be hard to come by.

Blsnelling...just wondering, have you checked with your dealer? I ordered these a couple months back for an 056mag project I have goin...although they did back order I still got them...I think these are the same seals that would fit a 056 super. I do believe the bearings themselves are hard to come by?
image.jpg
 
So I was just thinking "outside the box" and here's what I came up with. First off, we know that when these bearings are flush with the inside of the case when seated. So for the shouldered bearing we find a bearing of the correct size minus the shoulder and seat it into the case, then find a seal that fits the same size as shoulder and press it in from the outside. As far as the snap ring bearing find the exact same bearing with seal and press fit it in. Then we weld some tabs on the outside to keep it in place. I dont think it will take much if anything to hold it in there. Ok throw me into the fire now :)
 
I think if you press fit it'll be fine on its own.. I've never seen the inside of any of the 045/056 saws, is the crankshaft the same diameter on both sides? What if you could turn the crankshaft down to the appropriate size for a easily sourced bearing?
 
Not sure what happened to your last post Scott Kelly but I can't answer for the dates on the packages...if you'd like, when I get to work tomorrow I can take a picture of the printed purchase order that I made with the corresponding order number that's printed on the parts packages. I've also read and heard 084 coils are nla but I ordered one last week. It back ordered but I got it yesterday. Maybe ask your dealer to double check with the distributor?
 
I'll check with both of my stihl guys tomorrow for the seals.. The older guy of the two may just have some laying around he likes these older saws. If not I may ask if you can put me in touch with your source big t
 
I think the running issue hasn't been trouble shot yet. In case the saw passes the pressure and vacuum test, check the intake side of your piston skirt. I've had two saws with similar symptoms from a broken skirt.
 
270102a470bdde73c0ded32a75727457.jpg


Here is a front view of it.. Nothing much there really it's definitely the loudest saw I own.. Probably missing pieces to it
 
I'm reading at some point they switched the bearing style on the clutch side, can anyone tell me where exactly to find the serial number? If it is the number just below the hand-guard mine happens to be E7622578, I believe that puts it into the early group with the snap ring groove in the bearing..

Now i'm not 100% sure on this but i think saws with serial numbers before 10963560 had the early bearing, # 9523 003 0440 , Seal # 9639 003 2690 , Snap ring # 9459 620 2670.
 
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