045 and 056 Super tuning

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Since I got both my total 045/056 rebuilds from a couple years ago running after many false starts (or no starts at all), I've still never put either of them through the paces for very long. When I tried to do some milling with the 045 Super a few weeks ago, it wanted to only be started with the high jet screwed in, but had no power there, and then had to frantically turn it out a full turn as fast as I could to develop power. Screamed great at top end there, but didn't really want to idle there very well no matter what I did, and would die as soon as I touched the throttle off idle.. And as soon as it died, had to screw hi jet all the way back in to start it. Switched out the carbs (between the saws, I rebuilt three carbs and bought one rebuilt one) and the new one wants also to start with high jet screwed in, but runs way too rich if I try to back it out. Screwed in though, high runs great, idles good, no problems at all.

I remembered from all my study on every quirk of these saws that there were some carb models that wanted the jet screwed in because they had a bypass, but had never nailed down what I had out of the four carbs, how to tell which was which. Looked at some old threads, and I see the Tillotson 221A had a bypass and the 118A did not. I only just recently came to understand welch plugs and how they can be the problem, and never changed the welch plugs on any of my rebuilt carbs before because I didn't know how to remove them, so know that could also be my issue. For the moment I'm happy with how it's running and in no hurry to take the decently working carb off it to check if it has a bypass or not, but I'll get to it soon. Think they all may be 118A's actually, just varying states of bad welch plugs and maybe a clogged low side in the one I just took off. Cause seems like maybe the one I have on now was still running a little rich screwed all the way in, compared to how it was really screaming with the other carb opened up a full turn. Hopefully I held on to some of the new welch plugs I never installed, though, now I know how to check if they're leaking and replace them. Think that may be where a lot of people get tripped up who don't know carbs well, is not taking the time to check if welch plugs are leaking and/or not know how to replace them. Pretty simple now I know, but the only non-obvious thing in a carb rebuilding process.

The frustrating thing on so many old threads of carb problems - and this seems to be true of any mechanical issue on any forum that is hard to diagnose - is the OP never says in the end if he fixed the problem and how. There's pages of discussion of "tried this tried this tried that" and then it just ends. Probably half the time the OP just gives up and goes out and buys a new chainsaw or whatever.
 
Yes, the Tillotson HS-221A had a bypassed main and the HS-118A did not, so initially set the -221 at 1/4 turn out & the -118 at 1-1/4 turns out. “Screaming” saws are not going to last long.

Strange issue that you have to close the high needle to start, does it act flooded & bellow out blue smoke if you leave it set to one turn out? Problem carbs & filthy carbs get the welchs pulled & the 2 idle holes stiff wired out, but normally you don’t need to.

Proper way to carb check the Stihl 045 & 056 HS series is with a MityVac or blood pressure bulb setup at 8 psig into the fuel inlet hole, otherwise you’re pissing in the wind.

Soap bubble test the inlet seat/needle for any leaks, the welch plugs by fully seating the high needle, and then test main nozzle check valve (if has the nitrile disc) for operation using a short piece of hose & your mouth to pull a vacuum.

Easiest carbs ever to work on.
 
Yes, the Tillotson HS-221A had a bypassed main and the HS-118A did not, so initially set the -221 at 1/4 turn out & the -118 at 1-1/4 turns out. “Screaming” saws are not going to last long.
I have a Mity Vac, should start using it on my carbs not just crankcase tests. Yeah the one carb made no sense, never had one do that combo of things to me. No blue smoke when trying to restart, no help holding throttle down like a flooded saw. Just nothing. Screw it back in and after a few pulls some coughs and then it starts again. Carbs aren’t rocket science but one of the last things I fully understood the workings of, so still learning a few things. Agreed about screaming, still dialing in tuning and this is a torque-y old saw not meant to scream in revs like a 660. Kinda felt the slightly richer tuning of the new carb sounded just about right but wasn’t sure. Did work well at 1/4 out so may be a 221a, we’ll see. Anything past that and got smoky rich real quick.
 
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