jonsered 2166 opinions or thoughts ?

[Jim Timber]

My CO in BCT wore the tab and he was a big fan of saying "adapt and overcome."

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

Maybe you should be careful where your shooting your pocket pistol and your keyboard wouldn't be so sticky.

I was gonna ask about the sticky keyboard but i figured id leave it to someone else

 

[Marshy]

I was gonna ask about the sticky keyboard but i figured id leave it to someone else

Seemed like low hanging fruit to me.
I was suprised it was left on the table honsetly.

 

[john damps]

Shush.

dont have problem with any of my others, you must be a genuis

 

[john damps]

My 2166 was a bear to start cold when it was brand new. I flooded it so bad it still wouldn't start the next day. Took it back to the shop, he pushed the relief valve in and opened the throttle to get some air in it and cranked it over about 20 times. Flipped the switch on and it fired right up the next pull. That's when he told me to throw the choke off after 4 pulls no matter what (pop or not). I've never had it not start since.

Still freaking love it!

thanks for info, john

 

[john damps]

a punch in the mouth and swallowing blood would get the wise ass out of you, big talk on computor, try a golden gloves -special forces on, NO COMPUTOR IN FRONT OF US JERK OFF, MY KEYS STICK ON COMPUTOR,

low life; go back on wlfare. this site was started to help people some guys a ver good and know there stuff, your just a wise ass,probley have no employees i got a conection to call on you, hope your on the ball

 

[john damps]

thanks for info, john

yank you;someone that addres the problem, i than you again,

 

[tlandrum]

opcorn:

 

[john damps]

comstock logging fixed my 2166 and had to put new oil pump and clutches -brass line-tuned carb, it WASNT ME, THE ORIGINAL DEALER DID NOT PREP THE SAW, NOW I LOVE IT,

 

[rburg]

Glad you got your saw working properly. I believe you will like it now for sure.

 

[john damps]

thanks ;rburg

 

[weimedog]

I have a 2172, with proper setup it starts as easily as anything else I have. A couple of things that are beginning to creep into my consciousness about the 365/2166/372/2172 x-torq saws..... maybe some feed back from the real saw guys might verify or dispel these..... I'm learning and researching these now as we speak.

1) They do come lean on the "high side" of the carb and need to be set "no load" at 13,000 or a little less to survive.
2) They have virtually identical piston's and cylinders with simply the "caps" over the transfer ports being the main difference.... and yes grinding the divider out makes a 365/2166 almost a 372/2172.
3) The "squish" band are nice and "flat" as comes stock or have a better finish stock as compared to other saws I've looked at. Possibly the two I have looked at are an anomaly.... BUT the net there is that with the measured squish allowing (over .040); they REALLY respond well to a no base gasket build. That's assuming you end up with something close to .020inch after the base gasket is removed. Makes it easier for the enthusiast..
4) Their intake port squeezed between the two strato ports is... small. But obviously is big enough. Just opens all kind of questions about the interaction of the two and the possibilities of getting more mix in the combustion chamber. Maybe cut the intake side of the piston skirt a little to increase duration? .050? (depending on what timing works for those saws, and I don't know yet what works)

I'm tempted to take a 2166 and do a "farmer jones" build on it with no base gasket, cleaned out transfer caps, .050 cut off the piston skirt, and a typical to me muffler mod and start with that.... I have a sneaking suspicion that will wake up that saw. Wonder what port timing would work best on those saws? Same as did on the old 372's? And with the transfers under "caps", tweaking should be easier if it would help. Of course the 800lb gorilla in the room for me is WHAT to do with those strato ports...

 

[msvold]

I have a 2172, with proper setup it starts as easily as anything else I have. A couple of things that are beginning to creep into my consciousness about the 356/2166/372/2172 x-torq saws..... maybe some feed back from the real saw guys might verify or dispel these..... I'm learning and researching these now as we speak.

1) They do come lean on the "high side" of the carb and need to be set "no load" at 13,000 or a little less to survive.
2) They have virtually identical piston's and cylinders with simply the "caps" over the transfer ports being the main difference.... and yes grinding the divider out makes a 365/2166 almost a 372/2172.
3) The "squish" band are nice and "flat" as comes stock or have a better finish stock as compared to other saws I've looked at. Possibly the two I have looked at are an anomaly.... BUT the net there is that with the measured squish allowing (over .040); they REALLY respond well to a no base gasket build. That's assuming you end up with something close to .020inch after the base gasket is removed. Makes it easier for the enthusiast..
4) Their intake port squeezed between the two strato ports is... small. But obviously is big enough. Just opens all kind of questions about the interaction of the two and the possibilities of getting more mix in the combustion chamber. Maybe cut the intake side of the piston skirt a little to increase duration? .050? (depending on what timing works for those saws, and I don't know yet what works)

I'm tempted to take a 2166 and do a "farmer jones" build on it with no base gasket, cleaned out transfer caps, .050 cut off the piston skirt, and a typical to me muffler mod and start with that.... I have a sneaking suspicion that will wake up that saw. Wonder what port timing would work best on those saws? Same as did on the old 372's? And with the transfers under "caps", tweaking should be easier if it would help. Of course the 800lb gorilla in the room for me is WHAT to do with those strato ports...

I'd be interested in following that thread.

 

[weimedog]

It will be a series of video's over the next year.

 

[john damps]

The saw is a lemon because you don't know how to start it properly and it floods?[emoji53]

I'll leave the spell check to someone else.

 

[n@ils]

Diggigg this one up, I have a 2166 and i f*cking love it death. On starting, press decompress valve, choke out, no more than four pulls, no matter if it turns over or not, choke in, then bam, should start within three pulls. The saw has never let me down. Ripped through this 230 year old sugar maple without a hiccup

 

[Big_Wood]

13.3k and any of the black coils rom the other 372/2171 will work.

13.6 mike. you gotta get that 576 out of your head

 

[weimedog]

For 365/372 X-torqs; 13K is a good number. They are limited at 13,300 stock and winding them up with an unlimited coil might be great for GTG fun, but will get expensive and frustrating for the guy who works that saw.

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

Ive ran one of mine around 14000 or so for 2 years and that saw has fell/ bucked countless logs..still runs great..but i burn 32:1..everyone says the xtorqs need more sauce on the bottom..dont know if that helps or not ?

 

[WKEND LUMBERJAK]

Ive ran one of mine around 14000 or so for 2 years and that saw has fell/ bucked countless logs..still runs great..but i burn 32:1..everyone says the xtorqs need more sauce on the bottom..dont know if that helps or not ?

Did You change the coil to get 14K Mine shuts down about 13.4 13.5