Philbert's Chain Salvage Challenge

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Also can you rescue very rusty chains ie hanging on an outside garage wall?
I did a lot of rust remediation in the early posts - the key thing to remember is that RUST EATS METAL. I can remove rust, in a variety of ways, but can't put the missing metal back. So not a big deal if it is some light, surface rust on the drive links or tie straps, but if the rivets are weakened . . . .

OK for a rare chain that you want to display (e.g. see Post #133 - 140). OK for light surface rust. But if the chain is heavily rusted, seized, or has the chrome plating pitted, I would not run that chain.

Philbert
 
Challenge Chain # 22

Nothing special - but a good excuse for a thread bump.

Another chain rescued from the trash. A clean STIHL narrow kerf, Picco chain that had a bad day. Hit a rock, or something, hard. No (practical) option, other than grinding it back past the damaged area. Should still have some cutting life, and even another sharpening, left in it, after reconditioning. These chains are often used on pole saws, so if I have to shorten the loop, I can even choose to spin out the worst links.

View attachment 453784 View attachment 453785

WINNER? Philbert! A clean, usable chain after grinding it back.

LESSONS? 'Rock, Paper, Cutters' is not a good game to play with chains.

Philbert
I just "fixed" a 72DL 3/8" chisel chain that looked like that, had to grind about 2mm of all the teeth off. Afterwards I took a second go at it with a file and a file guide to get the gullet and top plate back to my liking.
Forgot to take before/after pictures, shame. :(

I finally toasted my worn "dirty stuff" chain, I think it has no cutters left now. ;)
Will take some pictures for You to inspect whether it is "salvageable" - very doubtful though! :rolleyes:

I like this thread! :cheers:
 
That would be fun to sort through! ;)

So, the dude buys a new chain whenever his current is dull and just accumulates the never sharpened ones till he has barrels of of them?
Weird practice. o_O

Since one can not know what truly is in that barrel it would have to be inspected upon personal pickup, or payed no more then scrap metal price. :nofunny:
Seems crazy to a recreational cutter but if you are on the clock it costs money to deal with sharpening. Either you have to pay one of your guys to sharpen them or you have to pay your guy to bring them to a saw shop then go back and pick them up. If you buy in bulk you can get chains for around $10. Most places charge $6-7 plus to sharpen.
 
What do you suppose that weighs? 300#
Just checked a completely worn 3/8" .058 72DL chain - 320 gram.

The question is how many loops are in those barrels (dude claims to have two).

Somebody close to the seller should pick it up (or at least a few dozens of loops) and send it to whoever offered free round sharpening of a box full of chains in the Christmas Giving 2015 thread (sorry, don't remember who gifted the free sharpening).

This will only be interesting to somebody close by to the seller or someone willing to make a road trip.
 
I doubt that there are 'more than a thousand chains in there'. But could still be a good deal for $100.

Especially, if they are mostly the same brand, type, pitch, and gauge chain. And if they are just used chains, as svk suggests, and not mostly rusted, twisted, rocked chains and stumpers. A guy could clean them up and re-spin them to length.

image.jpg

I have bought 'once-used' loops off eBay with good results, especially if a less common type or size. But sometimes they sell for the cost of new chains, once shipping is included.

A number of rental yards include a new chain with each rental, so that the customer can't complain after driving it into the dirt. Then they sell them in bunches on eBay or CL.

This guy would do better by sorting the loops into groups of 6 or 10, and offering to ship then in flat-rate boxes. He would get his $100 very quickly, especially if the chains say 'STIHL' on them.

Philbert
 
$100 is just the opening bid.
I've also bought the once used chains on ebay "lots" Think it was 10 chains for $40? Several years ago and I still have all of them and probably sharpened them 2 or 3 times, so it was a good deal, they stihl have 3 or more (grind) sharpenings left in them, all stihl brand, unfortunately they're .325
 
Completely all out worn chain - recycle bin ripe!

Philbert, if You want it it's Yours for the cost of shipping! :omg:
DSC02167.JPG DSC02171.JPG DSC02172.JPG

FYI: The above is this chain, just 6 months and some abuse later
DSC00640.JPG


One more nearing this state, might not get it worn all the way this Year though. :p
This is NOT the current state the chain is in, it had a few more hours of bush clearing duty!
DSC02062.JPG

And a thirdly, this one is a great noodle chain, not so good for bucking though as it makes a too narrow kerf. :D
These are current state pictures.
DSC02186.JPG DSC02187.JPG
 
Completely all out worn chain - recycle bin ripe!
Somebody got their money's worth!

What I like about those chains it that the tie straps and drive links still appear to be in very good condition, even though the cutters are (obviously) gone. To me, this suggests that you are good with chain tension, chain lubrication, depth gauge settings, and letting a sharp chain do the work when you cut.

Either that, or take off waaaay too much metal when you sharpen!

Philbert
 
Inside-Out chain - how to fix. I have been shown the following chain by a coworker and asked how to fix it so it can be used. What is Your opinion Philbert?

The 'Inside-Out' part is easy: wearing thick gloves, hold the loop by its sides, and twist/snap your wrists. It is an old trick/prank that has been discussed before here on A.S. - easier to do with longer loops, and especially, with worn, 'stretched' loops. With new chain, or a short loop that was spun this way in error, you may need to drive out a couple of rivets and re-spin it.

That chain has other problems! The cutters have some life left in them, but the drive links are really messed up: it looks like they all have burrs along their sides, and the tips are heavily worn down. The burrs can be removed, and the drive links re-shaped a 'little', but that that chain may still have problems meshing with the drive sprocket.

In more than one way, it is the 'opposite' of the loops you posted just before this one.

Philbert
 
I have fixed a few drive link burrs with a Dremel. My 362XP pulled the chain right into the sprocket and split it which messed some drive links up on a newer chain but I just ground the bad areas down.

Brian
 
Somebody got their money's worth!

What I like about those chains it that the tie straps and drive links still appear to be in good condition, even though the cutters are (obviously) gone. To me, this suggests that you are good with chain tension, chain lubrication, depth gauge settings, and letting a sharp chain do the work when you cut.

Either that, or take off waaaay too much metal when you sharpen!

Philbert
I did! :D
That completely worn chain is now 3 or 4 years old!
Before I got my Dolmar PS-7900 I used to have one chain per saw in usage and it would last me 2-3 years of firewood cutting with my main saw being my PS-6400 (my backup saw for tiny stuff was my Sachs-Dolmar 105).
I hate grinding, I file my chains even when they show minor damage due to dirt (dragged oak firewood tree trunks).
I didn't used to know how in my young days, but since I bought my PS-6400 (2006.) I love my chains to self feed - by now I like to think that I know how to sharpen a chisel tooth chain "fairly well".
It doesn't have to win any cookie cutting races, as long as it cuts straight and self feeds I am satisfied with my filing.

The 'Inside-Out' part is easy: wearing thick gloves, hold the loop by its sides, and twist/snap your wrists. It is an old trick/prank that has been discussed before here on A.S. - easier to do with longer loops, and especially, with worn, 'stretched' loops. With new chain, or a short loop, that was spun this way in error, you may need to drive out a couple of rivets and re-spin it.

That chain has other problems! The cutters have some life left in them, but the drive links are really messed up: it looks like they all have burrs along their sides, and the tips are heavily worn down. The burrs can be removed, and the drive links re-shaped a 'little', but that that chain may still have problems meshing with the drive sprocket.

In more than one way, it is the 'opposite' of the loops you posted just before this one.

Philbert
Aww, You knew!
Yes, the dude (my coworker) flipped the chain bare handed - says he does it to any chain type, length, pitch, old or new.
I have a clip of him flipping that loop, might put it up on YouTube.
I tried it with that worn chain of mine, the non existing teeth remnants went through the thick leather gloves I had on straight into my fingers - I immediately let go and didn't try again!

Those DL's on that flipped chain indeed look terrible, my guess is worn spur sprocket and/or worn bar.
It is not my chain (nor saw running that chain), thus it is not my concern.
 
salvaging a chain that came with my 268,266,162 husky frankensaw project.

what 3/8, .050 chain is marked 9L on the drive links? looks like Oregon 72DG semi chizek but none of the cross reference stuff I have leads me to what brand the chain is.

does anyone here know?

Brian
 
Photos help.

Oregon 'private labels' chain for many saw manufacturers, so it could be what you describe, but labeled with the specific company's markings.

Philbert
Here are a couple pics. I sharpened it per the Oregon 72DG instructions, at least all the angles and cutter lengths are the same now. 3/16 wheel, 60/30/0 so I will see how it cuts.

3c0a0b75569714490993cd585f2e05f1.jpg
9b960418c25b49bf3905cc95a6146156.jpg


there is also a Z on some of the non cutter, non drive links.

Brian
 

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