Few Stihl Dealers Have Seal Puller Tool - WTF?

[SteveSr]

Hello,

After my last attempt to make a tool to pull seals on the flywheel side of an 026/260 failed I decided to throw in the towel and go to a local repair shop to have them perform their magic.

I first tried some rural saw shops that came highly recommended by the state forest service. One of these dealers sells more Stihl Pro product than anywhere else in the state. The few times that I have been in there I was surprised to see older saws and weedeaters being repaired and not scrapped like most of the urban dealers do. Neither this shop nor the other one actually had the seal puller.

I also tried 3 urban shops and only one of them had the tool. Luckily they aren't far away. So does this sound unusual to any of you? I would have thought that all of the servicing Stihl dealers should at least have the special tools required to work on their equipment.

Thanks,

Steve

 

[HarleyT]

No, hard to afford all of that crap.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

I've always just used a bent screwdriver or sturdy pick.

 

[blsnelling]

I'm not surprised at all.

 

[SteveSr]

I've always just used a bent screwdriver or sturdy pick.

Well, my last tool was an old orange Stihl screwdriver that I bent the tip on 90 degrees after heating it red with a propane torch to remove any tempering. I "loosened" the seal by driving it slightly into the bore. I got the tool in under the metal part of the seal lip and then pulled up on the handle part of the screwdriver using a lever and a pair of pliers. The bend in the screwdriver promptly flattened right back out!

This is about the biggest piece of metal that you can get between the seal and the crank. It doesn't help that the seal is recessed 2-3mm down into the bore to allow room for the flywheel shaft. This makes it extremely difficult to get anything with a "hook" or bend on it into position under the metal part of the seal. The (relative) raised bore prevents allowing the "hook" from being parallel with the shaft to allow insertion. I am begining to see why the Stihl special tool was designed the way it is.

These seals are in there tight! These seals have a metal outer bore pressed into the magnesium case. Other seals have a rubberized outer bore and they come out MUCH easier.

 

[s sidewall]

I work for a GM dealer and we don't have All the special tools, can't afford it, like buying gold.

Steve

 

[atpchas]

Here is another approach, much cheaper than the Stihl tool, fast and effective.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/slide-hammer-seal-removal.240189/

 

[Rockjock]

It is not at all surprising they do not have this tool. I suspect the reason is you have people coming from different disciplines working on these things. Small engine mechanics that began their carers working on mowers and such would employ a much larger seal pulling tool for their trade. Now they migrate to chainsaws, trimmers, blowers... and many employ the fine drill bit screw technique.. This is all in sharp contrast when you meet someone who has apprenticed in this particular sector of small engines. That tool was common place in Germany for such work. In our shop the drill and screw method is employed. BUT I am sure if we were to get this tool on loan the blokes in the back would be all over it. I have seen a seal removed in less then 10 seconds with no damage and no cussing. And it is not crazy money.. about the cost of a snap on 3/8 ratchet.

 

[alexcagle]

I had one of those Stihl seal pullers. It was a POS. IMO.....lol
Good in theory, but just never got it to work worth a hoot. Even with the dislodging "tap".
Here's a couple good ideas. 1st one is my favorite.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/cheap-macgyver-seal-puller.295406/

 

[alexcagle]

I have one of the Stihl wrist pin "hookless circlip" installer tools too......Also worthless......lol
A good pair of Klein needle nose beats a $100 tool.

 

[cedarshark]

I finally broke down and bought the Stihl puller after trying a half dozen homemade ones. Nothing works better IMHO. Now I have to save up for a couple yrs to get the case splitter.

 

[alexcagle]

The case splitter IS worth every penny.
I use it on Husqvarnas too. lol

 

[67L36Driver]

No special tool needed.

I do need a better ice pick as my cheapo keeps bending.

 

[SteveSr]

Thanks @atpchas and @alexcagle for the home made seal puller suggestions. I took some photos of the seal in question in relation to a 1 1/4" fine drywall screw.


As you can see the width of the screw threads is about the same as from the seal bore to the crankshaft. You can also see where the metal of the seal ends (thanks to my failed attempt). It appears that there is insufficient metal or clearance to use the drywall screw method with this seal.

Please keep in mind that I am operating under the CAD Hippocratic oath - First do no harm! This is NOT my saw and I don't want to dig the hole any deeper as I don't have the tools to split the case or the funds to have someone else do it. I also can't risk damaging the crankshaft or crankcase bore.

I like @Chainsaw Jim screwdriver slide hammer. The business end really mimics the Stihl puller jaws. I was initially planning on trying to make one of these but gave up trying to find a screwdriver small enough to modify. There was no size given in the post for the screwdriver but it appears too big for this small seal. Then comes the issue of applying outward pressure to the jaw to keep it engaged in the seal while simultaneously wacking it with the socket slide hammer. I see the usefulness of the thumbscrews in Stihl's tool... It keeps the jaws firmly engaged.

 

[atpchas]

Thanks @atpchas and @alexcagle for the home made seal puller suggestions. I took some photos of the seal in question in relation to a 1 1/4" fine drywall screw.

View attachment 554013 View attachment 554015 View attachment 554016
As you can see the width of the screw threads is about the same as from the seal bore to the crankshaft. You can also see where the metal of the seal ends (thanks to my failed attempt). It appears that there is insufficient metal or clearance to use the drywall screw method with this seal.

Please keep in mind that I am operating under the CAD Hippocratic oath - First do no harm! This is NOT my saw and I don't want to dig the hole any deeper as I don't have the tools to split the case or the funds to have someone else do it. I also can't risk damaging the crankshaft or crankcase bore.

I like @Chainsaw Jim screwdriver slide hammer. The business end really mimics the Stihl puller jaws. I was initially planning on trying to make one of these but gave up trying to find a screwdriver small enough to modify. There was no size given in the post for the screwdriver but it appears too big for this small seal. Then comes the issue of applying outward pressure to the jaw to keep it engaged in the seal while simultaneously wacking it with the socket slide hammer. I see the usefulness of the thumbscrews in Stihl's tool... It keeps the jaws firmly engaged.

I'm not sure how much variety there is in drywall screw size. The ones I use measure about 3.5mm (tad less than .14") in diameter. Not that you only need/want to catch a thread or two, so you're not going to create a 3.5mm hole in the seal.

 

[SteveSr]

I'm not sure how much variety there is in drywall screw size. The ones I use measure about 3.5mm (tad less than .14") in diameter. Not that you only need/want to catch a thread or two, so you're not going to create a 3.5mm hole in the seal.

I tried the drywall screw approach once before in a 4137 series (FS-80) trimmer. This is also a small seal but not recessed making access considerably easier. What I learned here was that the screw will just pull out if you don't engage the full width of the thread. I wasn't successful in this case either.

 

[alexcagle]

These Lisle brand seal pullers are good for dinky seals.
The sheetrock screws work if you get three or four at the same time.
The super small seals I use a scratch awl to create a tiny hole, then use a small diameter wood screw. (4 together).

 

[Justsaws]

Apply a bit of heat to the crankcase if you are having issues with a hard to pull seal. A bit, like a hairdryer not a blow torch. This will greatly improve the results with the Stihl puller. Need to warm up the gunk, glue and goo sometimes.

 

[HarleyT]

Need to warm up the gunk, glue and goo sometimes.

Also why old guys need to go to Strip Clubs from time to time.....

 

[SteveSr]

These Lisle brand seal pullers are good for dinky seals.View attachment 554039
The sheetrock screws work if you get three or four at the same time.
The super small seals I use a scratch awl to create a tiny hole, then use a small diameter wood screw. (4 together).

I saw this puller but without having one in hand it is hard to judge the size of the hook and whether it would fit in the confined space allotted. Anybody ever use one of these successfully on an 026/260 flywheel seal?