McCulloch Chain Saws

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He said the standard rule of thumb was
a file a day
a chain a week
and one bar a month.
The smile on his face was priceless when I got it running. He was grinning from ear to ear. He is a good neighbor and friend. I thing he is getting old enough that he is worried about what will become of some of his stuff. He knew I would take care of them and make them run again. It is hard for me to imagine his skinny old butt on the business end of that saw all day long. He did say the first thing they did with a new saw was remove the chain stop lever assembly and cog teeth. saved weight
 
This guy needs some help:

I have a mcculloch pro mac 700 that I rebuilt and it was running way too fast at idle. I work on saws a lot so I bought a mityvac vacuum tester. I am trying to pressure test the saw. I made a block off plate with a fitting to attach a hose. I cut a gasket to go under the block off plate. I then took a piece of gasket material and punched two holes for the muffler bolts then i put it under the muffler and bolted it down. I then tried to pump up pressure and the needle on the gauge didn't move any. I then sprayed soapy water all over the seals and gaskets and around the cylinder base, and around the compression release and spark plug. I did not see any bubbles anywhere. Am I missing something or doing something wrong? ThanksView attachment 560384View attachment 560385

Ron
 
Where is the original post Ron?

I see the hex head cap screw that plugs the port through the DSP (de-stroking port) at the bottom of the compression relief valve is missing, without that the cylinder is open to the atmosphere.

The automatic oil pump must be installed and sealed to prevent the pressure/vacuum from simply venting through the impulse port to the crankcase.

Mark
 
Refer back to 25479 - the CP 80DX...

20170211_171340.jpg

20170211_171358.jpg

I had to shovel a bit of snow first thing this morning then try to sort out the Mac Cat (impulse line and oil line) but I did get started on getting the 80DX torn down and cleaned up.

20170225_132104.jpg

The anti-vibe mounts were not broken, but the rubber was not in good condition so I decided to replace them while I am at it.

20170225_132137.jpg

I have a good start on getting it back together.

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There was no spark when I took it apart but a new set of points and known good condenser and I have a good strong spark now. I will have to look around and find a suitable bar for this one, something that is correct for the period.

And just for grins and giggles, the Mac Cat.

20170225_203332.jpg

20170225_203313.jpg

20170225_203256.jpg

Mark
 
Where is the original post Ron?

I see the hex head cap screw that plugs the port through the DSP (de-stroking port) at the bottom of the compression relief valve is missing, without that the cylinder is open to the atmosphere.

The automatic oil pump must be installed and sealed to prevent the pressure/vacuum from simply venting through the impulse port to the crankcase.

Mark
I am the who has been having the problems with vacuum testing. I tried replacing the compression release valve with a bolt and it didn't seem to help. I didn't see any air bubbles coming through the bar oil in the tank. I'm assuming i would see bubbles if it was leaking. I sprayed the saw all over with soapy water. Is this cap screw you mention not part of the DSP valve?
 
Refer back to 25479 - the CP 80DX...

View attachment 560632

View attachment 560633

I had to shovel a bit of snow first thing this morning then try to sort out the WildCat (impulse line and oil line) but I did get started on getting the 80DX torn down and cleaned up.

View attachment 560634

The anti-vibe mounts were not broken, but the rubber was not in good condition so I decided to replace them while I am at it.

View attachment 560635

I have a good start on getting it back together.

View attachment 560637

View attachment 560638

There was no spark when I took it apart but a new set of points and known good condenser and I have a good strong spark now. I will have to look around and find a suitable bar for this one, something that is correct for the period.

Mark
Did they also have different bars designed for the export saws?
 
I am the who has been having the problems with vacuum testing. I tried replacing the compression release valve with a bolt and it didn't seem to help. I didn't see any air bubbles coming through the bar oil in the tank. I'm assuming i would see bubbles if it was leaking. I sprayed the saw all over with soapy water. Is this cap screw you mention not part of the DSP valve?

Right above the muffler and inline with the DSP valve is a clean-out; yours appears to be missing. Ron
 
couple guys expressed interest in 7-10 I have. fyi, it will stay here. if that changes you will be first & 2nd to know.

Pete,

What do you think of the saw? I really like mine and the 700's as well. The second 7-10 I have has been chipped and all the points stuff including the box is MIA. It runs and cuts well but has an occasional misfire at cutting speed.

Another surprise saw are the Homelite 76's and 130's. If you see one at a good price you won't be sorry. You too Mark.
 

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