Is all 2 cycle mixing oil created equal

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Ryan'smilling

Ryan'smilling

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Just don't use liquid cooled oil in chainsaws.

Other than that, Im not too worried about what oil I use. I worry a bit more about an accurate mixture ratio.

I'd say that's good advice, but then you've got Scott Kunz (tree monkey) who's been porting and repairing saws for decades, and he swears by the Schaeffer's semi-synthetic 7000 series, which is a water cooled oil. He's put thousands of hours on some saws using it, and taken them apart also, with no negative results. Personally, I'd run that oil without a second thought. It's pretty cheap too compared to a lot of fancy oils. I think it's about $7/qt.
 
dschroeder

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I've been running the Echo poweblend (gray bottle/orange cap)... once its used up I'm Thinking about switching to Belray SL-2 (semi synthetic JASO-FD spec) that I am running in my Rotax 503 on the airplane. I always have a little left over after premixing 10 gallons to fill the tank.

Also considered trying amsoil saber but the 80/100:1 ratio kinda scares me
 
Ryan'smilling

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I've been running the Echo poweblend (gray bottle/orange cap)... once its used up I'm Thinking about switching to Belray SL-2 (semi synthetic JASO-FD spec) that I am running in my Rotax 503 on the airplane. I always have a little left over after premixing 10 gallons to fill the tank.

Also considered trying amsoil saber but the 80/100:1 ratio kinda scares me


I used saber for a while. A quart of it anyway. It's alright by me BUT, I sure as heck didn't mix at 100:1! I did my standard 40:1. I do like how blue it is. Leaves zero question about whether or not it's mix that your pouring into your saws.
 
dschroeder

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I used saber for a while. A quart of it anyway. It's alright by me BUT, I sure as heck didn't mix at 100:1! I did my standard 40:1. I do like how blue it is. Leaves zero question about whether or not it's mix that your pouring into your saws.

Any noticeable smoke or plug fowling with the oil at 40:1?

Belray has thst coloring as well...don't wanna mess up and straight-gas that Rotax
 
Ryan'smilling

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Any noticeable smoke or plug fowling with the oil at 40:1?

Belray has thst coloring as well...don't wanna mess up and straight-gas that Rotax

No problems that I noticed. A little smoke, but nothing unusual. I think tune has more to do with fouling than oil ratio. Within reason, anyway.
 
dsell

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http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...1-100-1-affect-rpm.312455/page-3#post-6337577

I did some studying and have a customer running Saber at 85:1. I guess he hasn't burned the saws up yet. After I get my oil reserves used up, I'm going to switch to it. My 575XP is the only one I'd be concerned at running 85:1. In the test above, I switched a 455 from 32:1 conventional to 85:1 synthetic, with no change in RPM and I didn't touch the carb needles.
 
Little Al

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I've been running the Echo poweblend (gray bottle/orange cap)... once its used up I'm Thinking about switching to Belray SL-2 (semi synthetic JASO-FD spec) that I am running in my Rotax 503 on the airplane. I always have a little left over after premixing 10 gallons to fill the tank.

Also considered trying amsoil saber but the 80/100:1 ratio kinda scares me
You may or may not get on with Belray if its the same spec as I used it's the foulest smelling oil I've ever used & we've used a good few brands in our time Could be that it causes you no bother
 
Bwildered

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Just wondering, I generally use Stihl brand and I am thinking about running Jonsered oil in my gas. But I was wondering what you guys think of mixing oil in a nut shell.

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Some people spend a lot on good quality oil then mix it at almost twice the concentration that is required , your owners manual or oil manufacturers recommendation is what you should read & follow.
Thanski
 
John Lyngdal

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I change my vehicle oil every 3500 miles, even though the vehicle manufacture says I can go 5000 to 7500 miles. Oil is cheap, an engine rebuild or vehicle replacement isn't.
Saw manufacturers have to deal with US EPA requirements for emissions, and one way to deal with this is to reduce the oil in the mix. So it's not necessarily their desire to tell users to use 50:1, they just can't advise them to use 40:1

Following manufacturers recommendations are not always in your best interest.
 
Little Al

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I change my vehicle oil every 3500 miles, even though the vehicle manufacture says I can go 5000 to 7500 miles. Oil is cheap, an engine rebuild or vehicle replacement isn't.
Saw manufacturers have to deal with US EPA requirements for emissions, and one way to deal with this is to reduce the oil in the mix. So it's not necessarily their desire to tell users to use 50:1, they just can't advise them to use 40:1

Following manufacturers recommendations are not always in your best interest.
You could be correct in regards manufactures V EPA but I bet they don't shed many tears as they are selling parts & new saws etc due to the effects of minute oil quantities in the fuel mix.
 

rd35

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I run the Echo Full Synthetic oil in all my Stihl saws. Like mentioned earlier, I also like the extra dye they put in that oil as it turns my red plastic fuel can a darker shade making it easy at a glance to tell that it has mixed fuel in it. Also, I have been running this oil for several years now at 50:1 and have not had one issue. All my cylinders and pistons still look like new. My MS260 has cut hundreds of ricks of firewood and the compression is still super good...hard to pull until you get it past TDC. I think it runs better today than when I got it back around 2001 or so.
 
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i use belray mineral 2t at 7.95 per quart it works just fine i mix everything at 32:1 and don't have any problems.
 
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Those little bottles of 2-cycle oil are kinda expensive, and are to be used per gallon increments of gas. No control over the gas/oil ratio.

Get control. Buy a Ratio Rite cup and then whatever 2-cycle oil you prefer. I bought a quart of 2-cycle oil from my Yamaha dealer, and it seems to last forever.

ratio_rite_no_lid.jpg
 
schmauster

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Use the Mixmizer. To me it seems like the most accurate way. Plus it makes a mean turkey afterwards.


You can use any syringe with measurements on it.. the larger ones made for feeding livestock are similar.



$_58.JPG
 
altair

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I run Stihl Ultra at 40:1, or even 32:1 if the timber is hard..saws here are expensive, and oil is cheap...$33 a litre in NZ for Stihl Ultra. Maybe 50:1 is safe, but I'm not gonna try it when I pay $2500 for a saw. Have to say I have never actually noticed a smell from Stihl Ultra? Never see smoke either. Another one I like is Motul 800, but that's $40 a litre. As for all oil being equal, I doubt it..its probably much better than I give it credit for though..I reckon if your mix is fresh, saw tuned and air filter clean is much more important than brand. Just my 2c :) I even run my 2 loaner/idiot user chinese saws at 40:1 and they have lasted well.
 
aokpops

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From what I read at the Amsoil site it was made to go 200 to one . I use 4 ounces in 2 and half gallons . I do this for making it easy, 8 mixes to a quart . I just use the bottle to measure new quart pour it to 28 ounces are left . I run this in everything 2 cycle posthole digger lawn boy mowers snow blowers . One gas can an done .
 
Little Al

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Do you guys in the US have access to oil dye? if not candle dye suitable for paraffin ( kerosene) candle wax will do the job Depending on the type/strength you 'll probably only require a few spots per litre/quart comes in a lot of fancy colours think the last lot I got was around 4$ & was enough to do gallons of oil
 
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