Cbn wheel heating tooth when sharpening please help

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AlCicconi

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i have been using a cbn wheel for a Stihl grinder for 3 seasons. I have the grinder mounted to a wall in a greenhouse. It's done a great job over the years, but lately I've noticed it heating the teeth and pushing material to create burrs on the teeth. I usually just lightly kiss the edge off the teeth, taking very little off. I usually cut with 8 or 10 chains and switch them out as soon as I feel like i need to apply pressure to make a cut, so the chains usually just need a touch up. Is there a way to clean the wheel? I've tried the white stick that camewith the wheel, but not much difference. I don't clean the chains before sharpening, I've run maybe 200 to 300 loops tops, mostly Oregon jgx or stihl chains. Thanks al
 
The wheels are plated they due wear out- they can be replated at a slightly lesser cost than new- depending on the brand/ cost new. some of the suppliers are down under $90 for them.
 
The wheels are plated they due wear out- they can be replated at a slightly lesser cost than new- depending on the brand/ cost new. some of the suppliers are down under $90 for them.
Yup. $102 a year ago from Diamond. And a good wheel too.

Most good ones at Round $100 have a resinoid impregnated later about 1/8” or more. But the OP doesn’t have that many chained on the wheel.
He may use up most of a dressing stick unloading it.

The plated ones can be redone. They are nickel bonded. Around $300
 
Thanks for the replies. I purchased the wheels from Diamondwheel.com . wheel was silver, shiny and smooth. I compared it to the cbn wheel I use for pico chain that only gets used sparingly, that one had some grit to it and is still dark gray. I used up the whole white cleaning stick that came with the wheel, and it seemed to get better. Now I need to find more of those. I'm going to try the brake cleaner next. Also would lapping fluid help reduce loading the wheel? I never wash chains before grinding, would soaking them in kero or diesel help.

Thanks again. Al
 
Thanks for the replies. I purchased the wheels from Diamondwheel.com . wheel was silver, shiny and smooth. I compared it to the cbn wheel I use for pico chain that only gets used sparingly, that one had some grit to it and is still dark gray. I used up the whole white cleaning stick that came with the wheel, and it seemed to get better. Now I need to find more of those. I'm going to try the brake cleaner next. Also would lapping fluid help reduce loading the wheel? I never wash chains before grinding, would soaking them in kero or diesel help.

Thanks again. Al
Fastenal orders the Norton ones for me.
 
When the coating is gone it will move material instead of grinding which will produce a burr. Also, CBN does not produce a brown spot to let you know that it is burning the cutter, but it is. I have never had good luck with CBN on bench grinder before. CBN needs ample coolant to work properly.
 
When the coating is gone it will move material instead of grinding which will produce a burr. Also, CBN does not produce a brown spot to let you know that it is burning the cutter, but it is. I have never had good luck with CBN on bench grinder before. CBN needs ample coolant to work properly.
Ahhhhhh..........no.

It doesn’t need coolant when grinding chain.

In a machine shop grinding harder steels CBN is the way to go.

And no matter how the cutter gets hot, the cutter will turn the same color.
 
Ahhhhhh..........no.

It doesn’t need coolant when grinding chain.

In a machine shop grinding harder steels CBN is the way to go.

And no matter how the cutter gets hot, the cutter will turn the same color.

In layman’s terms, yep.
 
Ahhhhhh..........no.

It doesn’t need coolant when grinding chain.

In a machine shop grinding harder steels CBN is the way to go.

And no matter how the cutter gets hot, the cutter will turn the same color.
Sorry, I am referring to higher speed grinders. CBN wheels need enough coolant pressure to break the air barrier caused by the spinning of the wheel. CBN is great until the coating wears off, then you are just pushing material instead of grinding.
 
Yup....no coating and no grinding. Lol
When the crystals start wearing the surface becomes smooth. If you have access to a microscope you can look at the wheel and tell the condition of the crystals. When they become smooth they will still sharpen a cutter but it pushes material instead of grinding. This creates burrs and burns hard spots on the cutters. The ground face will usually be very shiny.
 
When the crystals start wearing the surface becomes smooth. If you have access to a microscope you can look at the wheel and tell the condition of the crystals. When they become smooth they will still sharpen a cutter but it pushes material instead of grinding. This creates burrs and burns hard spots on the cutters. The ground face will usually be very shiny.
Are you talking resinoid or bonded?
 
Fastenal orders the Norton ones for me.
Part number or description?
Thanks!

I drank the Kool-Aid and purchased a pair of the Diamond Wheel CBN wheels several months ago. So far, I am not a convert. Less grinding dust produced, but still easy to overheat the cutters and lift the chrome. Still trying them; maybe I, or the wheels, need to break in a little?

I get good results with the standard Oregon / Molemab vitrified wheels if I dress them frequently. I have some resinoid wheels that I like for hogging off a lot of metal (but they smell!).
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/resinoid-grinder-wheels.256733/

Philbert
 
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