Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[LondonNeil]

Got an ipl, and a service manual...just being lazy and asking Rather glad I checked the manual today before going at the clutch....else I'd have tightened it further not realising its a left hand thread. mistake avoided by reading first, yay.

yeah 0.058" isn't so common here, but husky supply the bar at a good price, £40 for 20" b and c over the power head alone, so I need chain to fit the bar. that is why i went searching, to decide if it was a good deal or if i should go power head, adapter, stihl rollomatic 0.050" and stihl rs. from what i read oregon chain is fairly good and at £13.11 on amazon its stunningly cheap compared to Stihl rs, so the husky b+c combo seems a fair deal.

the makita had the same 0.058 gauge bars, again I suspect just rebranded oregon.

yep now i have noticed some of the problems with the chain i hope my filing will be paying more attention. I always file with the chainsaw clamped in a bench vice by the bar, then get the chain super tight by shoving the scrench between chain and bar just behind the nose on the underside, rotate the chain backwards until it wedges tight, flip the brake on and file, the chain is going no where. its odd, I'd not noticed the file rocking and been concentrating on keeping the guide rails flat on the top of the cutters fore and aft, but i can't see another explanation for why the rakers hadn't been touched and why the gullet wasn't 'got'. we shall see....I've learnt a lot this weekend, chain fiiing, carbs, tank vents, impulse iines, av mounts, clutch removal...and read the manual even when you think something is simple

 

[svk]

Wish I had a never ending pile!

Im overrun with aspen. Several cords of hardwood to CSS too.

I just can’t bring myself to use hardwood in the fire pit though.

 

[chipper1]

Got an ipl, and a service manual...just being lazy and asking Rather glad I checked the manual today before going at the clutch....else I'd have tightened it further not realising its a left hand thread. mistake avoided by reading first, yay.

yeah 0.058" isn't so common here, but husky supply the bar at a good price, £40 for 20" b and c over the power head alone, so I need chain to fit the bar. that is why i went searching, to decide if it was a good deal or if i should go power head, adapter, stihl rollomatic 0.050" and stihl rs. from what i read oregon chain is fairly good and at £13.11 on amazon its stunningly cheap compared to Stihl rs, so the husky b+c combo seems a fair deal.

the makita had the same 0.058 gauge bars, again I suspect just rebranded oregon.

yep now i have noticed some of the problems with the chain i hope my filing will be paying more attention. I always file with the chainsaw clamped in a bench vice by the bar, then get the chain super tight by shoving the scrench between chain and bar just behind the nose on the underside, rotate the chain backwards until it wedges tight, flip the brake on and file, the chain is going no where. its odd, I'd not noticed the file rocking and been concentrating on keeping the guide rails flat on the top of the cutters fore and aft, but i can't see another explanation for why the rakers hadn't been touched and why the gullet wasn't 'got'. we shall see....I've learnt a lot this weekend, chain fiiing, carbs, tank vents, impulse iines, av mounts, clutch removal...and read the manual even when you think something is simple

There you go, who says guys don't read .

Can you sell the 058 bar and then buy a new 050 one, would save you a few bucks over buying a new one in 050 and buying the saw PHO(does take a bit more time though). If the price is close I think the stihl bars are better than the Oregon/huskys and the adapters work well if you buy a good one.

Learning is great, sometimes it cost a lot though . You go way further than I do to get them tight lol.
If the file is resting on the top of the raker and not filing it down and the front part of the guide is on top of the links as it should be then it would explain why you are filing so "high" on the tooth.
Your getting it and practice makes, well it makes you better .
Leaning is a great thing .

 

[woodchip rookie]

I always brought mine to a local guy. But it's similar to free filing a saw chain. Just need the right angle.

What blade do you have ?

Husqvarna Scarlet. And if I was going to invest in more blades what am I looking for? I have read the "maxi" blades are better.

 

[dancan]

Maxi type blade , just sharpen with a chainsaw file .

 

[MustangMike]

Neil, My DeWalt 18 V 1/2 Impact removes them (clutches), but the smaller drive ones will not, they are often on very tight, and not much nut to grab, you have to be careful.

I like my plastic piston stops better than rope (come with the ring compressor kit), and if the jug is off I insert a thin piece of Oak to prevent the crank from spinning.

Most of the time the Asian parts are just fine. I have several great running Asian knock offs at the moment. However, quality control is always a possible issue, so expect it now + than.

 

[James Miller]

There you go, who says guys don't read .

Can you sell the 058 bar and then buy a new 050 one, would save you a few bucks over buying a new one in 050 and buying the saw PHO(does take a bit more time though). If the price is close I think the stihl bars are better than the Oregon/huskys and the adapters work well if you buy a good one.

Learning is great, sometimes it cost a lot though . You go way further than I do to get them tight lol.
If the file is resting on the top of the raker and not filing it down and the front part of the guide is on top of the links as it should be then it would explain why you are filing so "high" on the tooth.
Your getting it and practice makes, well it makes you better .
Leaning is a great thing .

If you want real good adaptors @Homelite410 is the guy.

 

[Homelite410]

If you want real good adaptors @Homelite410 is the guy.

Thank you sir, let me know if I can help in any way.

 

[svk]

Converted my 346 from .325 to 3/8. I think it cuts a little better. Cut down a dying balsam aspen and an uprooted balsam (fir) with it. That balsam aspen was WET! That stuff usually splits very easily, hoping this one does too. Lots of wood to split down by the cabin the bugs are so thick and aggressive right now that I’ve been splitting up in the sun so they leave me alone.

Fired up my buddy’s Makita 5000. That’s a real nice saw. Lots of power. I had heard that the Dolmar/Makita saws were great noodling saws. You cannot jam this one with noodles, the saw will bog first.

 

[James Miller]

I'd like to try one of the 4300s. I hear there strong for a 40cc class saw.

 

[farmer steve]

Neil, My DeWalt 18 V 1/2 Impact removes them (clutches), but the smaller drive ones will not, they are often on very tight, and not much nut to grab, you have to be careful.

I like my plastic piston stops better than rope (come with the ring compressor kit), and if the jug is off I insert a thin piece of Oak to prevent the crank from spinning.

Most of the time the Asian parts are just fine. I have several great running Asian knock offs at the moment. However, quality control is always a possible issue, so expect it now + than.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY Mike. enjoy the cake and ice cream. i guess your gonna soon be lookin at them 40 CC top handle saws. have a great day buddy.

 

[LondonNeil]

The rope worked very well as a piston stop. I was worried when I needed to turn to an impact driver as I thought any sponginess would absorb the impact, but it's very stiff rope. It's climbing accessory cord, very high strength static load, but no stretch like dynamic climbing rope, so no sponginess. Locked the cylinder solid. With my iffy helicoiled spark plug port I wasnt using a screw in stop, that may be how the thread got mangled initially.

 

[Cowboy254]

HAPPY BIRTHDAY Mike. enjoy the cake and ice cream. i guess your gonna soon be lookin at them 40 CC top handle saws. have a great day buddy.

Maybe he'll buy @LondonNeil 's ickle saw and port it and square file. That's if the rheumatiz will allow it.

Happy birthday Mike!

 

[panolo]

The rope worked very well as a piston stop. I was worried when I needed to turn to an impact driver as I thought any sponginess would absorb the impact, but it's very stiff rope. It's climbing accessory cord, very high strength static load, but no stretch like dynamic climbing rope, so no sponginess. Locked the cylinder solid. With my iffy helicoiled spark plug port I wasnt using a screw in stop, that may be how the thread got mangled initially.

I got a parts 288xp for a $1 at auction where someone stopped the stroke with a rope and locked it into the exhaust port. Never seen that before.

 

[farmer steve]

Maybe he'll buy @LondonNeil 's ickle saw and port it and square file. That's if the rheumatiz will allow it.

Happy birthday Mike!

don't think he would be able to hold that heavy 038 AND his cane.

 

[Marine5068]

View attachment 667058 Woohoo! Halfway done. My process is to split and stack along the fence where the wood gets full sun and wind, then move it to these racks under my deck for the winter. 10 racks 4x8 with tin above to keep them dry. Close to the door where the stove is. It’s been such a hot year, I am behind on my stacking, so we’ve been picking away in the mornings when it’s cooler.

It's been VERY hot here too. I'm way behind on mine too, but no bother because it's for two seasons away yet so I'm not worried.
I do similar to you too. I cut, split and stack for a year out in the sun, then move the seasoned stuff to racks under the front cantilevered deck to make it easy to grab when it's -30 outside.
My racks are only 15' from the wood stove.

 

[Marine5068]

Im overrun with aspen. Several cords of hardwood to CSS too.

I just can’t bring myself to use hardwood in the fire pit though.

I have lots of it here too. I felled 10 medium sized Aspen and got them in mini log form now.
I use them for kindling and sell the rest by the used wood pellet bag for $5 a bag for campfire wood.
About $500 worth of camp wood a year. It pays for all my gas, oil, chains, and extras for the season.

 

[MustangMike]

Over the last few weeks, with the help of some Asian parts, I've brought a 044, 046 and 460 back to life, and built some 440 Big Bores totally (almost) from Asian parts. Have also done port work to the cylinders on all of them (the new thing I'm learning to do). I'm impressed with the way most of them run. (On the Big Bore kits I like to use OEM piston pin, piston pin bearing, and piston … and an HL Supply chain adjuster). The chain adjusters that come with the saw don't even fit in the case!

But I guess this year, I'll have to "get my kicks" on that famous Highway (I see youngsters not knowing what I'm talking about)!!!

 

[svk]

I'd like to try one of the 4300s. I hear there strong for a 40cc class saw.

My aunt is probably going to buy one of those rather than fix the burned up 3516. I’ll report once she does. I figured she’d appreciate the easy start.

 

[svk]

Over the last few weeks, with the help of some Asian parts, I've brought a 044, 046 and 460 back to life, and built some 440 Big Bores totally (almost) from Asian parts. Have also done port work to the cylinders on all of them (the new thing I'm learning to do). I'm impressed with the way most of them run. (On the Big Bore kits I like to use OEM piston pin, piston pin bearing, and piston … and an HL Supply chain adjuster). The chain adjusters that come with the saw don't even fit in the case!

But I guess this year, I'll have to "get my kicks" on that famous Highway (I see youngsters not knowing what I'm talking about)!!!

HBD!

Are you taking a road trip down there?